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Materials:
Custom Scroll Saw StandBuild an inexpensive stand for maximum comfort and efficiency
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Step 1: Determine the optimum height.
Sit in the chair you plan to
use at the saw. Hold your arms at a
comfortable sawing height–your
arms, from elbows down, should be
close to horizontal. Have someone
else measure the distance from
the floor to the bottom of your
arms. For me, it was 33". Enter the
measurement in Box A.
Step 2: Determine the length of the table legs.
Measure the
distance from the base of the
scroll saw to the top of the saw
table. Enter the measurement in
Box B. Enter the thickness of the
plywood to be used for the top
of the stand in Box C. Add Box B
and Box C together and record the
measurement in Box D. Subtract
Box D from Box A and record the
measurement in Box E. My sample
calculations are listed in the chart.
Step 3: Cut the legs to size.
Cut the eight legs to the length
recorded in Box E. Nail or screw
together the four pairs of 2x4 legs
to create four 4x4 legs.
Step 4: Determine the size of
your table.
It should be 24" wide.
The length can vary from 28" to
32". Cut four 2x4s that are 3" less
than the length of your table for
the long stand supports. Cut four
24"-long pieces of 2x4 for the short
stand supports.
Step 5: Attach the long table
supports to the legs.
Place two
of the legs on the floor with the
3" width facing you. Position one
long support across the legs on one
end. Use a large square to ensure
that the top of the long support is
square to the legs. Nail or screw the
long support to the legs. Use the
same technique to attach a long
support to the other two legs.
Step 6: Attach the long supports
to the bottom of the legs.
Make
a mark 4" up from the bottom of
both legs. Place the lower edge of
the long support on the marks and
attach the support to the legs with
nails or screws.
Step 7: Attach the short
supports to the legs.
Match the
ends of the short supports up with
the ends of the long table supports.
While the long supports end at the
edge of the legs, the short supports
extend to the outside edge of
the long supports. Make sure the
supports are square to the legs and
nail or screw all four short supports
in place. Work on one end first, then
flip the stand to attach the other
two supports.
Step 8: Fasten down the stand
top.
(If your saw has an enclosed
base, proceed to step 9.) Cut the
plywood to size, based on your
stand. Nail or screw the plywood
to the legs and supports. Place the
saw on the table and use a pencil to
mark the mounting hole positions
on the plywood top. Drill holes
through the plywood, then bolt
the saw down using the largest
bolts, nuts, and washers that will fit
through the mounting holes in the
saw base.
Step 9: Cut any required holes
in the bench top.
Some saws, such
as the Hawk G4, require you to cut
a hole in the top for the motor. Cut
the plywood to size, then determine
the location of the motor, and
transfer the measurements to the
plywood. Drill a ¼"-diameter bladeentry
hole and use a saber saw or
jigsaw to cut out the required area.
Nail or screw the plywood top to
the legs and supports.
Step 10: Make the mounts for
an enclosed base saw.
Position the
scroll saw on the stand and trace
around the perimeter of the saw
with a pencil. Remove the saw and
glue four 2x4 scraps inside the four
corners you just marked. Place the
scroll saw in position before the
glue dries to ensure a perfect fit.
After the glue dries, attach the scroll
saw to the blocks with four 1"-long
wood screws.
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Stand Measurements
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About the AuthorGary MacKay of Myrtle Beach,
SC, is the author of the Fox Chapel
book, Box Making Projects for
the Scroll Saw, available at
www.FoxChapelPublishing.com.
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