Scoller's Aid

There are some tools a scroller uses every day. In an organized shop, they are always within easy reach. Unfortunately, my shop is not that organized. I designed this project to combine several of the most useful tools into a pocket-sized Scroller's Aid.

This device is the size of a business card. The magnifier is great for checking the direction of teeth on tiny scroll saw blades. The small ruler doubles as a depth gauge. There is a series of thickness gauges for standard dimensions and a protractor to ensure your saw table is at the correct angle in relation to the blade.

On the back of the aid is a chart showing what size blade to use, based on the wood thickness, and what size drill is required to drill blade-entry holes for the different blades. This gadget also includes a handy drawer to store tiny numbered drill bits that seem to disappear so often.

The key to the accuracy of this aid is in the transfer of the pattern and the cutting of the project. Start by sanding the plywood with 220- grit sandpaper.


Step By Step Instructions - Click Image for larger view
Step 1 - Cut the three layers of the aid. Attach the pattern to the blank (see sidebar for tips). It is critical that the flat side of the protractor is straight, flat, and true. Cut along the line slowly, or for better accuracy, cut away from the line, and sand up to it once the project is assembled.	Step 2 - Remove the lens from a dollar store telescope. With your scroll saw, cut the telescope about ¼" from the lens. Then break the plastic away from the lens with pliers. You may find this lens is larger than the circle on the center layer of the aid. Place the lens in the correct spot, and trace around it.


Step 3 - Cut the details. Drill blade-entry holes and cut the circles for the magnifier, and the center of the drill bit drawer. Cut the ruler, thumb notches, and the drawer itself. NOTE: Test the fit of the magnifier lens in the hole of the center layer and the length of your drill bits in the drawer. Make adjustments as needed. DO NOT cut out the thickness gauge notches yet.	Step 4 - Glue the bottom layer to the middle section. Place the bottom layer of the aid face down, place the middle section on it, and trace an outline of the cut outs onto the lower section. This will show you where the glue can go. Apply glue sparingly to the bottom layer. Clamp the bottom and middle layer together, and allow to dry.


Step 5 - Add the top layer. Remove any glue squeeze out from the openings in the middle layer. Slip the drawer into its tray. Drop the lens into the magnifier hole. Apply glue sparingly to the middle layer, avoiding the openings. DO NOT put the ruler in at this time. Clamp the layers together, and allow to dry.	Step 6 - Finish the aid. Sand the sides and back of the ruler. This allows it to slide in and out easier. Cut the slots for the thickness gauges undersized and sand them to the lines. Place sandpaper face-up on the scrollsaw table. Put the flat edge of the protractor on the sandpaper, and sand it true. A finish is not needed as the heat transfer will protect the wood and the markings.

Heat transfer patterns There are a couple of ways to transfer patterns to wood with heat. The first is to transfer the toner from a photocopy or a laser printer to wood by using a clothes iron. Toner is fused at a temperature around 400º, but some copiers and printers use a fusing oil, which will impede this process. The second is T-shirt transfers. In my opinion, this method is better, because it gives the finished project a protective finish. T-shirt transfer paper is designed for inkjet printers. The image is printed in reverse. A reverse image pattern is available for download at www.scrollsawer.com. Place the transfer image-side-down onto the wood. Apply even pressure, and heatit with a clothes iron for 45-60 seconds to release the transfer from the backing paper. I found a medium setting on my iron worked best. Do not remove the backing paper until the transfer has completely cooled. Slip a sharp craft knife under one edge of the paper, and peel it back. Once you remove the backing sheet, you may find some spotswhere the transfer did not bond well. There will be shiny blotches on the image. Take a piece of grease-proof parchment paper, and place it on the transfer. Reapply heat with the iron. The grease-proof paper will not stick to the image, allowing you to seal the transfer properly.