         |
Home Club Search Message Board Scroller Galleries Subscription Services |
Subscribe Today!
|
Magazine
|
Scroll Saw Community |
Reader's Poll |
Testimonials
Fantastic magazine, I love it! I wanted to make sure that I didn't miss an issue. I only wish that it came out more often... Continue |
Found the Fox?
 Click here to enter the Fox Hunt contest!
|
Elegant Fretwork Timepiece
Classic Roman clock face
is easy to scroll
By Sue Mey
I use walnut stain to darken the overlay, but a dark hardwood can be used instead. Maple, beech, and light oak are all good choices for the backing. Cut the blanks to the size listed in the materials list, then sand with 150-grit sandpaper. Sand the wood again with 320-grit sandpaper. This reduces the amount of hand sanding you need to do later; you run the risk of breaking the fragile parts of the overlay if you wait to sand after cutting. I find I have better control if I stack-cut the clock face. This provides support for the fragile areas and allows me to make several projects at once. Cover the surface of the workpiece with masking tape to allow for easy removal of the pattern after cutting. Apply the pattern to the taped surface. Use a compass to draw an 8"-diameter circle on the backing piece. Mark the center position, using a punch and mallet. |
Step By Step Instructions - Click Image for larger view |
|
 Step 1 - Drill the blade-entry holes and cut the frets. Use a 1⁄8"–diameter bit where space allows and a 1⁄16"–diameter bit for tight areas. Remove any burrs from the back by scraping with the grain of the wood. Use a #3 blade and reduce the speed when cutting fragile parts. |
Step 2 - Sand the edges of the work pieces.
After all frets are cut, cut the perimeter on the overlay and backing board with a #9 blade. Cut outside the line and use a disc sander to sand up to the pattern lines. Turn the work pieces slowly and evenly against the disc. You can also cut the circles with the scroll saw if you prefer. |
 |
 |
Step 3 -Prepare the backing board for the clock mechanism. Drill the center hole for the quartz movement shaft, using the corresponding bit for your shaft diameter. Place the movement in position on the rear of the backing board, and draw the outline with a sharp pencil. |
Step 4 - Finish shaping the backing board. Carve an opening for the quartz movement. Create the recess to the proper depth so the shaft will protrude enough in the front. Use carving tools or a router to create the recess. Using a router and a round-over bit, round over the front edge of the backing board. |
 |
 |
Step 5 - Remove the pattern and masking tape. Separate the plywood layers by inserting your blade of choice between the two pieces and prying them apart. Sand the pieces by hand with 320-grit sandpaper. Switch to 500-grit sandpaper to get a smooth finish. Be careful not to catch and break any fragile pieces. Remove all of the sanding dust. |
Step 6 - Apply your finish. Use a small paintbrush to apply deeppenetrating furniture wax liquid or Danish oil to the backing piece. Apply walnut stain to the front and side surfaces of the face. A small brush makes it easy to reach all the inside surfaces of the fretwork. Allow the pieces to dry, and wipe all of the surfaces with a dry, lint-free cloth. |
|
|
| Step 7 - Glue up the clock. Line up the clock face with the recess on the back. Apply small beads of wood glue to the back of the clock face piece. Position it on the backing board, and clamp it in place. Remove any glue squeeze out with a toothpick. When dry, apply several thin coats of clear spray varnish. |
Step 8 - Finish assembling the clock. Attach a saw-tooth hanger to the back. Place the quartz movement in position, and tighten the nut in the front. Insert the clock hands onto the shaft: first the hour, then the minute, and finally the second hand. Insert a battery, and set the correct time. |
