So I think I can build a wooden mechanical clock

[GROOVY]

I will be more than gratefull for any and all suggestions, comments, tips, jokes or anything that you think will be helpfull......

pic 1 is how I drilled the holes I am crenterpunching blank has center hole drilled and rotates on that point.
#2 finished my first scroll cut
#4 another gear
using plans for the WC5 clocks by john
CLOCKS BY JOHN - A Gallery of Clock Designs from Randle Design, LLC

[KtownScroller]

Groovy - Make sure these two gears you just cut run very true, with minimal run-out. I believe that they are the key to the operation of the clock. Also, just wondering, what type of wood did you select for the gears? Plywood or hardwood?

[GROOVY]

I am using leftover pieces from some projects: mahogany from boat, maple from grandsons crib, cherry from same grandsons toybox/bed and some 1/4 sawn white oak from some china cabinets or whatever I have thats too short and has straight tight grain... I spent last week sorting resawing and planing
and found that cherry with a swirly grain like near a knot comes out both ends of planer at about 1/8"..... that was big, is this simular to the on you made?

[GROOVY]

Pic #5 Set up for face plate blank has carpet tape to hold to face plate
Pic #6 handy circle cutting overhead wheel holder , works on sander too

[Wood Dog]

Yea........another WIP, thanks and good luck.
Neat idea to make your circle on the band saw.

[KtownScroller]

Originally Posted by GROOVY

I am using leftover pieces from some projects: mahogany from boat, maple from grandsons crib, cherry from same grandsons toybox/bed and some 1/4 sawn white oak from some china cabinets or whatever I have thats too short and has straight tight grain... I spent last week sorting resawing and planing
and found that cherry with a swirly grain like near a knot comes out both ends of planer at about 1/8"..... that was big, is this simular to the on you made?

I used red oak for the gears. Over time both of the larger gears have warped to some degree.

I like the faceplate and tape idea on the lathe. I don't have a lathe, but it would have made my build much easier had I owned one. I like what you have going to date and will help you get through the build if you like.

I have opinions and ideas about making wooden geared clocks, but I'll keep that to myself for now. I don't want to influence your work.

[GROOVY]

Thanks Rick, don't hold back I am both thick/skinned and open to new or better ideas, rigt now I am looking at what appears to be a ratchet assembly but can not figure the thickness if anybody has built this plan it is the second page bottom drawing WC5-03-04?
the pics show how I worked out drilling for the 1/8" pins, used a 1/4" end mill to level a piece of stock then milled out a slot to accept the wheel. worked really well, I have the cross slide vice shimmed to be at right angle to quill of drill press.

[evilbadger]

Groovy in the parts section on page 20 it shows the thickness to be 15/64. WC5-03-03-01 and WC 5-03-04 mate so the 15/64 should be correct. Hopefully Rick will confirm this also.

A couple of tips for you: install one wheel and its mate and check for any binding. Its easier to go through wheel by wheel rather than putting it all together. After wheel 1 and 2 are checked remove wheel 1 and check 2 and 3. If you cut the frame out you can use it but I usually take a scrap piece of wood and drill the center to center dimensions. It is easier to see outside of the frame. Sand the teeth with the finest sandpaper you have the smoother the better. When you get to the pallet cut it out of the hardest wood you have. More hardness equals less friction and friction is the enemy.

BTW What's your first name? Groovy just don't cut it for me. LOL

[KtownScroller]

Like Tim said the thickness is correct. I didn't follow the plans thickness requirement exactly. I rounded everything off to stock thicknesses. I don't have a planer. The ratchet should be the same thickness as the outer ring.

A big problem with making this clock is that you have to look all over the place to find dimensions. Not to knock the designer, but the plans could be improved to make building the clock much easier. Each part should have all the dimensions for the part in one drawing. I talked with the designer via email and he appeared to have a chip on his shoulder. A very difficult man to work with. If you run into problems I'm sure it has happened to me already and I'll get you through it. Down the road you will have problems finding the pendulum spring. My advice to you is to find one that is close in size. Having the exact spring listed in the plans is unnecessary.

[evilbadger]

If you run into problems finding the suspension spring check out Timesavers | Welcome to Timesavers - Shop Online their item# is 12055. The place listed in the plans will have it also but they are more expensive on everything.