Wooden Clock - Trial & Error - Page 9 - Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board

CalMcC · 06-19-2009, 12:19 AM

Well, Rick, it is fun to follow your project, whether or not you you have frustrations. You comment that your drill bits sometimes wander. When I built my MLT-13 clocks I used a spring driven centre-punch to define the hole centre before drilling it. This would even be a good idea to use with your brad point drills. The centre punch mark draws the point of the drill in quite forcefully so it will not wander. Keep at it. When the clock works you will be fascinated by its action.
Cheers, Calvin

KtownScroller · 06-30-2009, 01:07 AM

I spent several hours today re-making the compound wooden gear that I was working on in message #73. I am having a lot of trouble with the pin gear portion of the compound gear; actually more trouble than I can deal with at the present time. I finished the day in the shed greatly disappointed.

I guess it's time to seek help. Until then... this thread is temporarily suspended. Sorry...

Wood Dog · 06-30-2009, 01:19 AM

We will be here when you can solve your temporary problem.....it's a bugger when days go like that, but no one can say you have not tried. Enjoyed what you've posted so far, and looking forward to your better days ahead.

Hobbyhorse · 06-30-2009, 10:21 AM

Rick, sorry to hear of your problems. There is not a lot I can do to help from this distance except to say we are all on your side.

I am continually surprised by just how hard it is to drill a completely acurate hole in wood. Even with brad point drills there is often an error with a hole running off to one side on the back of the material. Drilling down the centre of a dowel should also be fairly straightforward but never is. I now drill from each end and more or less wear the centre where the drill holes meet with a drill held with a bias to one side to try and get a straight hole.

I ran into trouble on my present clock project with the simple task of gluing a spacer on the side of one of the wheels and the drilling inaccuracies were magnified. I managed to overcome that one by holding a 3' block in the lathe chuck and skimming it flat and putting a jacobs chuck in the tail stock with a drill of the correct size which I drilled into the block in the chuck then mounted the wheel and spacer on the drill and pushed them together until the glue had dried. The flutes of the drill cut the glue that had squeezed out and it was all reasonably accurate.

I hope you manage to resolve your difficulties soon.

Regards,
Rhys

Haggard3230 · 07-01-2009, 01:09 AM

Sorry to hear of your problems Rick, I am sure you will persevere.

KtownScroller · 07-01-2009, 01:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jigsue

Rick

Way to go!!! I am loving this post. A wooden-geared clock is on my "when retired" list. Please don't give up, I need the inspiration. You really are doing great so far.

Good luck

Sue

Thanks for the boost Sue.

I think I need a laser to cut my gears!!! I can cut the teeth with no problem. It's those darn holes!

KtownScroller · 07-01-2009, 01:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CalMcC

Well, Rick, it is fun to follow your project, whether or not you you have frustrations. You comment that your drill bits sometimes wander. When I built my MLT-13 clocks I used a spring driven centre-punch to define the hole centre before drilling it. This would even be a good idea to use with your brad point drills. The centre punch mark draws the point of the drill in quite forcefully so it will not wander. Keep at it. When the clock works you will be fascinated by its action.
Cheers, Calvin

Thanks for the idea Cal!

KtownScroller · 07-01-2009, 01:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Wood Dog

We will be here when you can solve your temporary problem.....it's a bugger when days go like that, but no one can say you have not tried. Enjoyed what you've posted so far, and looking forward to your better days ahead.

The last screw up came about when I tried something new! Yikes!!! I guess it just didn't work out. The next gear will be cut minus the pin gear holes. Then I think I am going to glue the small ring on the back and then drill the pin gear holes. This way everything should line up properly. The pattern needs to be on the other side of the gear to make my process work a little easier. I just need to figure out how to mirror the pattern while keeping the pattern sizes in perspective. I can mirror the pattern. The problem comes about in the scanning process. The scanner scans the picture too big. I suppose I could adjust this if I just figure out how to do it. More work to accomplish very little. I wonder if the guy who carved Mt. Rushmore had the same problems?

KtownScroller · 07-01-2009, 01:33 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hobbyhorse

I am continually surprised by just how hard it is to drill a completely acurate hole in wood. Even with brad point drills there is often an error with a hole running off to one side on the back of the material. Drilling down the centre of a dowel should also be fairly straightforward but never is. I now drill from each end and more or less wear the centre where the drill holes meet with a drill held with a bias to one side to try and get a straight hole.

I hope you manage to resolve your difficulties soon.

Regards,
Rhys

My biggest problem is that my work area is so confined that problems "blow up out of proportion" once I run into trouble. There is no room to work and my selection of tools are limited. The rain is back again so my shed time is all but gone. The whole Spring has been wasted with the constant rain. Boo Hoo Hoo!

The brad point bits do center wonderfully. The problem is when they exit the hole they usually take a chunk of wood with them (even with a backer board). The frustration level increases with each new failed gear. Yeah I could use some of these screw ups (messed up compound gears), but I really want the clock to be as perfect as possible.

You are absolutely right about the holes going where they want. This is an issue without a good solution. I guess this is one of the great challenges facing me. Once I beat it my smile will go ear to ear!

KtownScroller · 07-01-2009, 01:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Haggard3230

Sorry to hear of your problems Rick, I am sure you will persevere.

That's me. Push along... screw up... push along... screw up... bitch a lot... screw up... bitch some more... quit! Tomorrow the S.O.S.

Ain't life great!

06-30-2009, 01:07 AM	#82
KtownScroller So much better :) Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: PA Posts: 2,662	I spent several hours today re-making the compound wooden gear that I was working on in message #73. I am having a lot of trouble with the pin gear portion of the compound gear; actually more trouble than I can deal with at the present time. I finished the day in the shed greatly disappointed. I guess it's time to seek help. Until then... this thread is temporarily suspended. Sorry... __________________ - Rick

06-30-2009, 01:19 AM	#83
Wood Dog Senior member--Absolutely Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: MA USA Posts: 3,445	We will be here when you can solve your temporary problem.....it's a bugger when days go like that, but no one can say you have not tried. Enjoyed what you've posted so far, and looking forward to your better days ahead. __________________ WD

07-01-2009, 01:09 AM	#85
Haggard3230 Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Riverton, KS on Route 66 Posts: 2,714	Sorry to hear of your problems Rick, I am sure you will persevere. __________________ Merle SSG US Army Retired. merlehobbs@yahoo.com

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06-19-2009, 12:19 AM	#81
CalMcC Senior Scroller Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Abbotsford, Canada Posts: 38	Well, Rick, it is fun to follow your project, whether or not you you have frustrations. You comment that your drill bits sometimes wander. When I built my MLT-13 clocks I used a spring driven centre-punch to define the hole centre before drilling it. This would even be a good idea to use with your brad point drills. The centre punch mark draws the point of the drill in quite forcefully so it will not wander. Keep at it. When the clock works you will be fascinated by its action. Cheers, Calvin

06-30-2009, 10:21 AM	#84
Hobbyhorse Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Auckland, New Zealand Posts: 294	Rick, sorry to hear of your problems. There is not a lot I can do to help from this distance except to say we are all on your side. I am continually surprised by just how hard it is to drill a completely acurate hole in wood. Even with brad point drills there is often an error with a hole running off to one side on the back of the material. Drilling down the centre of a dowel should also be fairly straightforward but never is. I now drill from each end and more or less wear the centre where the drill holes meet with a drill held with a bias to one side to try and get a straight hole. I ran into trouble on my present clock project with the simple task of gluing a spacer on the side of one of the wheels and the drilling inaccuracies were magnified. I managed to overcome that one by holding a 3' block in the lathe chuck and skimming it flat and putting a jacobs chuck in the tail stock with a drill of the correct size which I drilled into the block in the chuck then mounted the wheel and spacer on the drill and pushed them together until the glue had dried. The flutes of the drill cut the glue that had squeezed out and it was all reasonably accurate. I hope you manage to resolve your difficulties soon. Regards, Rhys