First project - Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board

Simplyme · 10-27-2008, 01:47 PM

Ok this is my first ever scroll saw project. It is done in 3/4 Aspen wood. I tried to use a spiral blade but went thru like 20 before giving up(all of them was impossible to put on my sroll saw). I honestly almost gave up totally on scrolling, I was that upset.

One question.....Why does the bottom clamp moves foward when your trying to tighten it? Should it not be stationary?

So anyway, ended up using the Penguin Silver Reverse #5. I would unclamp the blade from the top after every hole. I have a dremel 1850, so i'm not sure if that was the way to go, but I refused to unclamp the bottom, just to hard for me now. Once I got the hang of it, I tell ya...time just flew by......Will be practicing unclamping the bottom.

Would like some feedback on the project and techniques and suggestions on inserting blades thru the wood. How do you guys do it?

P.S. This is not my pattern. Some one sent it to me from another site.

greatdane2 · 10-27-2008, 04:27 PM

I don't do much fret work, to picky for me. But that said, congtrats for finishing your first project. Sign and date it and stick it on the wall above your saw. Each project you do will get better and having your first will quickly show you how much you have improved. I have a dolphin that I just have to laugh at.
So dig out another piece of wood and have at er. I would use thinner wood though.

Alan.

Simplyme · 10-27-2008, 04:36 PM

I agree, I should of used thinner wood. I could of made two pieces out of that one. Can any one tell me how I can frame this, any ideas. Since it is 3/4 it is not easy. Live and learn

jim_mex · 10-27-2008, 07:01 PM

Hiya - I've been scrolling just over a month and have tried spiral blades a few times on my Delta saw but like you can't seem to get them to clamp correctly. The recommendation is to lightly flatten the ends of the blade with a small hammer but even when doing this I still have trouble clamping them.

Popular opinion also recommends that spiral blades are not a good idea for folks fresh to scrolling and I'll second that particularly when cutting wood as opposed to manmade board. I find they run away from the pattern line and tend to follow the wood grain and also they leave a very wide cut (kerf).

At the moment I'm getting better results using skip tooth or reverse skiptooth blades when cutting the thickness you've cut and even though I'm cutting for segmentation work rather than fretwork I'm finding that if I go slowly and really concentrate on how I feed the wood I can now follow a pattern line and make tight turns pretty well.

Also regarding clamping it could be that actual clamping area on your Dremel is a bit too smooth or even has some packing grease or oil present. It's a good idea to take the shine off this surface with a piece of wet & dry paper

Having said all this I reckon you turned out a very nice piece for a first attempt and something to be proud of. Like Alan says, you'll get much better in your next projects.

Best advice I can give is take your time and don't lose confidence and above all get some pleasure and fun out of what you are doing

Cheers!

Simplyme · 10-27-2008, 07:12 PM

Yep I have about given up on using spiral blade till I get a lot better in a few years. And I tell you, I was like 6 hours on this yesterday and it felt like one. It is so relaxing(except for the first 20 blades).

Jim McDonald · 10-28-2008, 02:50 AM

If you really want to experience the spirals, get some of the "plain end spirals" Mikes Workshop has them in the Flying Dutchman band and Sloan's has the Olson version.

I always unclamp the top holder. It may slow me down lifting the wood to find the entry hole, but not nearly as slow as trying to feed that bottom clamp when I can't see the throat of the clamp.

About the only way I can think of framing 3/4 wood is to make your own frame--with a mighty deep rabbet.

But, your effort looks good and as Alan said date it and see just far you've come in 6 months or a year.

I think the clamps swivel a little for some give in the blade as you are pushing against it. My old Delta had clamps that swung about 15 degrees and my Hitachi clamps also move forward and back, but not as far. From your description, I assume your blade tightens from the left side of the saw, forcing the clamp forward--like my Hitachi. If you can reverse the side the tightener is--to the right side, then it would tighten to the rear of the saw. I could do it with the CW40, but have just gotten so used to left side use, I'd have a new learning curve.

Hope this helps

lucky788scroller · 10-28-2008, 03:08 AM

good job on that piece, and Im glad you gave a flat blade a try. They really do a nicer job cutting anyways, and leave such a nice cut finish and very little fuzzies mess. Im not familiar with your saw, feed your blade through whichever way it works best for you. My problem with top feeding (poking the blade down through the wood) is having a hole thats small the blade tends to want to grab as I push it through the hole, its much easier for me to feed it up through from the bottom.
edit: Oh, and as for framing it.....tilt your saw table a few degrees, and drill an entry hole and make a beveled cut about 3/4 inch in from the outside edge of the board. Cut in a direction so that the middle piece is tapered smaller towards the backside.Once you cut all the way around it that way, you can push your picture part way through that frame you just created. Stain the outer rim and then glue the center piece back in and it'll be framed!

KathyRo · 10-28-2008, 04:40 AM

Hey good job on your first project and it really looks nice. I'm sure this will be one of many, many more to come.
KathyRo

Simplyme · 10-28-2008, 01:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by lucky788scroller

good job on that piece, and Im glad you gave a flat blade a try. They really do a nicer job cutting anyways, and leave such a nice cut finish and very little fuzzies mess. Im not familiar with your saw, feed your blade through whichever way it works best for you. My problem with top feeding (poking the blade down through the wood) is having a hole thats small the blade tends to want to grab as I push it through the hole, its much easier for me to feed it up through from the bottom.
edit: Oh, and as for framing it.....tilt your saw table a few degrees, and drill an entry hole and make a beveled cut about 3/4 inch in from the outside edge of the board. Cut in a direction so that the middle piece is tapered smaller towards the backside.Once you cut all the way around it that way, you can push your picture part way through that frame you just created. Stain the outer rim and then glue the center piece back in and it'll be framed!

See this is why I love this site......

I will be trying this out today. I would of never thought of that in a million years. See now I just want to leave work and go try that out. Its going to be a long day.

Simplyme · 10-28-2008, 02:02 PM

If you can reverse the side the tightener is--to the right side, then it would tighten to the rear of the saw. I could do it with the CW40, but have just gotten so used to left side use, I'd have a new learning curve.

Will check if I can reverse the tightener. The dremel is the 1830 not 1850. Not sure I would be able to tighten though after doing this. Will give it a try though. Thanks for the help.

10-27-2008, 07:01 PM	#4
jim_mex 'Senior' member - no way! Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: Pachuca, Mexico Posts: 2,393	Hiya - I've been scrolling just over a month and have tried spiral blades a few times on my Delta saw but like you can't seem to get them to clamp correctly. The recommendation is to lightly flatten the ends of the blade with a small hammer but even when doing this I still have trouble clamping them. Popular opinion also recommends that spiral blades are not a good idea for folks fresh to scrolling and I'll second that particularly when cutting wood as opposed to manmade board. I find they run away from the pattern line and tend to follow the wood grain and also they leave a very wide cut (kerf). At the moment I'm getting better results using skip tooth or reverse skiptooth blades when cutting the thickness you've cut and even though I'm cutting for segmentation work rather than fretwork I'm finding that if I go slowly and really concentrate on how I feed the wood I can now follow a pattern line and make tight turns pretty well. Also regarding clamping it could be that actual clamping area on your Dremel is a bit too smooth or even has some packing grease or oil present. It's a good idea to take the shine off this surface with a piece of wet & dry paper Having said all this I reckon you turned out a very nice piece for a first attempt and something to be proud of. Like Alan says, you'll get much better in your next projects. Best advice I can give is take your time and don't lose confidence and above all get some pleasure and fun out of what you are doing Cheers! __________________ Jim in Mexico “Only two things are infinite, the universe and human stupidity, and I'm not sure about the former.” -Albert Einstein

10-28-2008, 02:50 AM	#6
Jim McDonald Sawdust Maker Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Muncie, IN USA Posts: 1,127 Blog Entries: 9	If you really want to experience the spirals, get some of the "plain end spirals" Mikes Workshop has them in the Flying Dutchman band and Sloan's has the Olson version. I always unclamp the top holder. It may slow me down lifting the wood to find the entry hole, but not nearly as slow as trying to feed that bottom clamp when I can't see the throat of the clamp. About the only way I can think of framing 3/4 wood is to make your own frame--with a mighty deep rabbet. But, your effort looks good and as Alan said date it and see just far you've come in 6 months or a year. I think the clamps swivel a little for some give in the blade as you are pushing against it. My old Delta had clamps that swung about 15 degrees and my Hitachi clamps also move forward and back, but not as far. From your description, I assume your blade tightens from the left side of the saw, forcing the clamp forward--like my Hitachi. If you can reverse the side the tightener is--to the right side, then it would tighten to the rear of the saw. I could do it with the CW40, but have just gotten so used to left side use, I'd have a new learning curve. Hope this helps __________________ Jim If it cannot be fixed with a hammer--must be an electrical problem. "Political Correctness is a doctrine, fostered by a delusional, illogical minority, and rabidly promoted by an unscrupulous mainstream media, which holds forth the proposition that it is entirely possible to pick up a turd by the clean end." Last edited by Jim McDonald; 10-28-2008 at 02:55 AM. Reason: Added info

10-28-2008, 03:08 AM	#7
lucky788scroller Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: wisconsin Posts: 6,354	good job on that piece, and Im glad you gave a flat blade a try. They really do a nicer job cutting anyways, and leave such a nice cut finish and very little fuzzies mess. Im not familiar with your saw, feed your blade through whichever way it works best for you. My problem with top feeding (poking the blade down through the wood) is having a hole thats small the blade tends to want to grab as I push it through the hole, its much easier for me to feed it up through from the bottom. edit: Oh, and as for framing it.....tilt your saw table a few degrees, and drill an entry hole and make a beveled cut about 3/4 inch in from the outside edge of the board. Cut in a direction so that the middle piece is tapered smaller towards the backside.Once you cut all the way around it that way, you can push your picture part way through that frame you just created. Stain the outer rim and then glue the center piece back in and it'll be framed! __________________ Dale w/ yella saws Last edited by lucky788scroller; 10-28-2008 at 03:14 AM.

10-28-2008, 04:40 AM	#8
KathyRo Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Location: High Desert Arizona Posts: 443	Hey good job on your first project and it really looks nice. I'm sure this will be one of many, many more to come. KathyRo __________________ Really New Scroller NEWMy Website, Robbins Nest Creations www.robbinsnestcreations.com My WCI Scroller Gallery http://www.scrollsawer.com/gallery/s...0/ppuser/12025 My WCI Wood Carving Gallery http://www.woodcarvingillustrated.co...00/ppuser/3480 Measure twice cut once

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10-27-2008, 04:27 PM	#2
greatdane2 Senior Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Vancouver Island, BC. Canada Posts: 2,298	I don't do much fret work, to picky for me. But that said, congtrats for finishing your first project. Sign and date it and stick it on the wall above your saw. Each project you do will get better and having your first will quickly show you how much you have improved. I have a dolphin that I just have to laugh at. So dig out another piece of wood and have at er. I would use thinner wood though. Alan.

10-27-2008, 04:36 PM	#3
Simplyme Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 199	I agree, I should of used thinner wood. I could of made two pieces out of that one. Can any one tell me how I can frame this, any ideas. Since it is 3/4 it is not easy. Live and learn

10-27-2008, 07:12 PM	#5
Simplyme Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 199	Yep I have about given up on using spiral blade till I get a lot better in a few years. And I tell you, I was like 6 hours on this yesterday and it felt like one. It is so relaxing(except for the first 20 blades).

10-28-2008, 02:02 PM	#10
Simplyme Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2008 Posts: 199	If you can reverse the side the tightener is--to the right side, then it would tighten to the rear of the saw. I could do it with the CW40, but have just gotten so used to left side use, I'd have a new learning curve. Will check if I can reverse the tightener. The dremel is the 1830 not 1850. Not sure I would be able to tighten though after doing this. Will give it a try though. Thanks for the help.