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Wood Finishing and Painting | |||
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| | #1 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Utah and Arizona
Posts: 106
| Since it seems like so much of what many of us will use for many of our projects is Baltic Birch, can some of you please share some of the methods you use for finishing? Particularly on portraits, plaques etc., that have been pre-sanded before sawing. On some threads, I've noticed that some mention of the "muddiness" when trying to stain BB. Thanks in advance for all your help. Dale DW788 |
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| | #2 |
| American Crafstman |
Dale, For Baltic birch I use Deft clear spray laquer. I've only stained it once with a spray stain and didn't have any of the blotchiness problems others have mentioned. The only place I use BB ply is on portraits so I never have a need to stain it. Kevin
__________________ Kevin Scrollsaw Patterns Online Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671 |
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| | #3 |
| Banned Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 780
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Some woods are known for blotching, if your in doubt about the woods you will be using, first test the stain on scrap woods, if you have no scrap woods, then use the back of the woods to do your testing. To prevent or reduce the blotching, you can first spray a thin coat or two of the clear coat you will be using, and then allow to dry, and then wipe on the stain, allow the stain to dry, and then apply your clear coats. You can also use, boiled linseed oil, watco, or any of the other oil finishes, a glue sizing will also act to stop the stain from penetrating deep into the wood. you could also use the gel stains to prevent blotching, as they do not penetrate the woods. On open grain woods apply extra coats, on closed grained woods, two thin coats should do, but remember when it comes to staining your woods, its samples, samples, and SAMPLES. Think Twice, And Finish Once.... |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2006 Location: Utah and Arizona
Posts: 106
| Thank you for the info. Mac, your giving the "educational" pointers is especially appreciated. Dale |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member |
samples huh? did I read that right? Who has time for samples!? |
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| | #6 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Rural Central California Foothills
Posts: 570
| Quote:
Sandy | |
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| | #7 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bellport, LI New York
Posts: 2,808
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"Pre stain " may also help I use it on all of my pine trim in the house. It makes a dramatic differance in the uniformity of the stain. All of my balti and finnish birch items get only a clear coat. With a few exceptions some get painted.
__________________ Rolf RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350 Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can" |
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| | #8 |
| Banned Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 780
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Rolf, What is your prestain? It sounds like a "catch word," like every one should use a "wood conditioner" which, actually is nothing more then a drying oil, like any of the oil finishes. All the items that I mentioned, are all considered "prestain" coatings that are used to seal the woods, and prevent the stain penetrating into the woods. I'm curious to know, what you use. Mac |
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| | #9 |
| Gone to the Dark Side Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 1,131
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Hi, I believe Mac forgot to mention a 1lb cut of blonde shellac also does the pre-stain job quite well. If you buy the ready mixed shellac, usually a 50/50 dilution with methyl hydrate (alcohol) will do quite well. Also note that shellac, like lacquer, has the advantage of drying quickly. That lets you apply the stain with minimal waiting, as opposed to oil based products. Nice thread. Regards, Marcel
__________________ http://marleb.com DW788. -Have fun in the shop or it isn't a hobby anymore. NOTE: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced. |
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