Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account. As a registered member you will be able to:

 * Browse over 200,000 posts.
 * Communicate privately with other scrollers from around the world.
 * Post your own photos or view from 7,000 user submitted images.
 * Gain access to exclusive scroll saw promotions offered by Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts and Fox Chapel Publishing.

All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!

If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team.

Go Back   Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board > Scroll Saw > Wood Finishing and Painting
Connect with Facebook

Wood Finishing and Painting

Reply
Share Thread:
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-13-2006, 04:43 PM   #1
Elmer Fudd The Duck Man
 
Charlie_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pa
Posts: 760
Send a message via MSN to Charlie_1 Send a message via Yahoo to Charlie_1
Smile Primers ?

Should a primer be used before painting with acrylic or latex ?




Charlie,
Charlie_1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2006, 05:07 PM   #2
Senior Member
 
Neal Moore's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cottageville, West Virginia
Posts: 1,077
Default

Personally I seldom use a primer when painting wood with acrylics. It generally depends on what you want to cover. I like to use several wash coats of acrylic as opposed to one heavy coat and let the color "build" with each additional coat. If there are blemishes in the wood that you need to hide then a primer would be in order. If you use a good sanding sealer first and then paint with wash coats you can control how much, if any, wood grain is visible in the finished piece. Additionally, the luster of the finished product is nicer with wash coats than with one heavy coat. When I do use a primer I use Gesso mixed about 50/50 with the acrylic color I intend to use on the project. Wash a few thin coats of that on and let each coat dry before applying the next. Then, build the color you want using several wash coats of acrylic thinned with water. Also let each coat dry before applying the next until you get the depth of color you're looking for.
__________________
If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!!
Neal Moore is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2006, 06:52 PM   #3
Senior Member
 
SharonW0111's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Ne Texas
Posts: 878
Default

To me nothing in this world is prettier than wood grain..even if it has color I would still like to see the grain.. No primer on my part please...
Sharon
SharonW0111 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2006, 07:15 PM   #4
Elmer Fudd The Duck Man
 
Charlie_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pa
Posts: 760
Send a message via MSN to Charlie_1 Send a message via Yahoo to Charlie_1
Smile Thank you

Thank you both for the info , will try the sanding sealer and see how that does ,there are a few blemishes in the wood Id like to cover up and that might do the trick :-)
Thank you both :-)
Charlie_1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2006, 07:17 PM   #5
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Rural Central California Foothills
Posts: 569
Default

Charlie,
It may depend on the look you are trying to achieve. A primer should sort of seal the wood, allowing the paint or stain or whatever comes next to sit right up there and show - if it is paint, and you want crisp lines or fine detail, then a primer (or, as I sometimes prefer, sanding sealer) will allow you that precision. If, on the other hand, you are just sort of tinting the wood with light dilute coats, then no sealer lets it soak in a bit, and gives you a softer, "woodier" look. And if you're using a wood with ugly or no grain or character, then prime with a dilute coat, follow with more coats of thinned paint, and you've got it.
In most cases, a thick or heavy coat of paint gives a "plastic-y" look to the project - and that is better left for - well - plastics. (In my humble opinion.)
I usually have similarly strong opinions on high gloss finishes.
Sandy
sheltiecarver is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-13-2006, 07:27 PM   #6
Elmer Fudd The Duck Man
 
Charlie_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pa
Posts: 760
Send a message via MSN to Charlie_1 Send a message via Yahoo to Charlie_1
Smile thank you :-)

Well its sort of both , I want to to look more crisp with the paint than it is , and there are a few blemishes in the wood that the paint isnt covering up .
I got the scrolling part going better ,but the paint is a whole other story story lol :-)


Thank you :-)

Charlie
Charlie_1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2006, 01:46 AM   #7
Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 90
Default Dewaxed shellac

If the wood you want to cover with paint is pine, use one coat white dewaxed white shellac mixed at a rate of 2 pounds cut. (You can buy it pre-mixed in any D.I.Y center). Put 2-3 coats over the knots. Pine is a resinous wood and the resins bleed and blend into the paint (oil base or latex) EVEN IF YOU PUT PRIMER specially over the knots.

Shellac dries in a few minutes and requires only 45 minutes between coats. Lightly sand between coats with a 200 grits sand paper.

Don't use foam paintbrush. Clean brushes with denatured alcohol.

Last edited by boogatoo; 03-16-2006 at 01:54 AM.
boogatoo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-14-2006, 07:56 PM   #8
Elmer Fudd The Duck Man
 
Charlie_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pa
Posts: 760
Send a message via MSN to Charlie_1 Send a message via Yahoo to Charlie_1
Smile Thank you :-)

will have to try that :-)
thank you
Charlie_1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-17-2006, 01:55 PM   #9
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: Cary. NC
Posts: 119
Default pre-mixed shellac

Following up on Bugatoo's suggestion, I would specifically recommend Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat as the pre-mixed dewaxed shellac. Note that they also have a canned shellac that is labeled just as shellac (which I also like, but for other purposes) that is not dewaxed and is a stronger mix. It has a 3 year shelf life and the date is stamped on the bottom of the can.
__________________
-Andy
arbarnhart is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-19-2006, 05:30 PM   #10
Elmer Fudd The Duck Man
 
Charlie_1's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Location: Pa
Posts: 760
Send a message via MSN to Charlie_1 Send a message via Yahoo to Charlie_1
Smile Thank you all for the info :-)

Thank you :-)

Learning more every day :-)
Charlie_1 is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT. The time now is 06:40 AM.



Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2010, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.3.0