|
Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account.
As a registered member you will be able to:
* Browse over 200,000 posts. If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team. |
| | ||||||
Wood Finishing and Painting | |||
![]() |
|
| | LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
| | #1 |
| Elmer Fudd The Duck Man |
Should a primer be used before painting with acrylic or latex ? Charlie, |
| | |
| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Cottageville, West Virginia
Posts: 1,077
|
Personally I seldom use a primer when painting wood with acrylics. It generally depends on what you want to cover. I like to use several wash coats of acrylic as opposed to one heavy coat and let the color "build" with each additional coat. If there are blemishes in the wood that you need to hide then a primer would be in order. If you use a good sanding sealer first and then paint with wash coats you can control how much, if any, wood grain is visible in the finished piece. Additionally, the luster of the finished product is nicer with wash coats than with one heavy coat. When I do use a primer I use Gesso mixed about 50/50 with the acrylic color I intend to use on the project. Wash a few thin coats of that on and let each coat dry before applying the next. Then, build the color you want using several wash coats of acrylic thinned with water. Also let each coat dry before applying the next until you get the depth of color you're looking for.
__________________ If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!! |
| | |
| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Ne Texas
Posts: 878
|
To me nothing in this world is prettier than wood grain..even if it has color I would still like to see the grain.. No primer on my part please... Sharon |
| | |
| | #4 |
| Elmer Fudd The Duck Man |
Thank you both for the info , will try the sanding sealer and see how that does ,there are a few blemishes in the wood Id like to cover up and that might do the trick :-) Thank you both :-) |
| | |
| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2002 Location: Rural Central California Foothills
Posts: 569
| Charlie, It may depend on the look you are trying to achieve. A primer should sort of seal the wood, allowing the paint or stain or whatever comes next to sit right up there and show - if it is paint, and you want crisp lines or fine detail, then a primer (or, as I sometimes prefer, sanding sealer) will allow you that precision. If, on the other hand, you are just sort of tinting the wood with light dilute coats, then no sealer lets it soak in a bit, and gives you a softer, "woodier" look. And if you're using a wood with ugly or no grain or character, then prime with a dilute coat, follow with more coats of thinned paint, and you've got it. In most cases, a thick or heavy coat of paint gives a "plastic-y" look to the project - and that is better left for - well - plastics. (In my humble opinion.) I usually have similarly strong opinions on high gloss finishes. Sandy |
| | |
| | #6 |
| Elmer Fudd The Duck Man |
Well its sort of both , I want to to look more crisp with the paint than it is , and there are a few blemishes in the wood that the paint isnt covering up . I got the scrolling part going better ,but the paint is a whole other story story lol :-) Thank you :-) Charlie |
| | |
| | #7 |
| Member Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 90
|
If the wood you want to cover with paint is pine, use one coat white dewaxed white shellac mixed at a rate of 2 pounds cut. (You can buy it pre-mixed in any D.I.Y center). Put 2-3 coats over the knots. Pine is a resinous wood and the resins bleed and blend into the paint (oil base or latex) EVEN IF YOU PUT PRIMER specially over the knots. Shellac dries in a few minutes and requires only 45 minutes between coats. Lightly sand between coats with a 200 grits sand paper. Don't use foam paintbrush. Clean brushes with denatured alcohol. Last edited by boogatoo; 03-16-2006 at 01:54 AM. |
| | |
| | #8 |
| Elmer Fudd The Duck Man |
will have to try that :-) thank you |
| | |
| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: Cary. NC
Posts: 119
|
Following up on Bugatoo's suggestion, I would specifically recommend Zinsser Bulls Eye SealCoat as the pre-mixed dewaxed shellac. Note that they also have a canned shellac that is labeled just as shellac (which I also like, but for other purposes) that is not dewaxed and is a stronger mix. It has a 3 year shelf life and the date is stamped on the bottom of the can.
__________________ -Andy |
| | |
| | #10 |
| Elmer Fudd The Duck Man |
Thank you :-) Learning more every day :-) |
| | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
| |