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Wood Finishing and Painting | |||
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| | #1 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Barnesville, GA *Buggytown*
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well, i thought i was gonna wait a bit longer before i started on the ‘re-do’ box, but the other night, my wife demanded her horsey puzzle that i messed up when i first started scrollin….i don’t remember exactly what kind of wood i used, i think it was poplar, i used behlen black dye for the stain, then finished it off with tung oil, but left it in a metal shop that got over 110 degrees, while the tung dried…*honest, i didn’t know it was gonna be that hot in the shop*…anyway, a few hours after i returned, the tung had blistered around the edges of each piece of the puzzles i had oiled down, i just threw the messed up puzzles in a ‘be dealt with at a later’ time box…well, accordin to the wife, it’s ‘time to deal with’ the horse puzzle…question is, after i sand the edges, and most of the puzzle, is it goin to be ok, to re-dye, and re-tung the wood, or do you think it might have probs due to the first layers of tung on it? i hope this makes sense? ![]()
__________________ Tim If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking. -George S. Patton |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Littleton, NC
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It should be OK to sand all the old finish off and re-apply. If you sand carefully you should not have to re-stain. Got some questions. Are you sure the heat ruined the finish and it was not a bad or old can of finish? Cans of finish should be tossed out after being open a year. When you said tung oil did you mean pure tung oil or what is sometimes sold as "tung oil finish". If pure tung oil you need to cut it some with mineral spirits. Also make sure you only apply thin coats of your finish. Just wet the surface.
__________________ Scott Last edited by NC Scroller; 01-01-2012 at 11:06 AM. Reason: typo |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Barnesville, GA *Buggytown*
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it was a new can of tung oil….not quite sure if it was finish or not, but will def look tomorrow….ahhh, ok, thin coats huh?…i do remember coatin it on purty thick….maybe that was part of the prob….trust, i DO know better now….as far as the heat prob goes, i shouldn’t have that worry this week, in GA, highs are sposed to be in the 40’s, whilest the lows in the 20’s….not quite sure how much scrollin will be happenin in the next few days…lol
__________________ Tim If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking. -George S. Patton |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Littleton, NC
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Tim, cold can be worse then hot when it comes to finish. Keep the finish and the work piece at least 60 degrees until the finish is cured (24 hours).
__________________ Scott |
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| | #5 |
| Laying into Inlay Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Lincoln, RI
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Don't forget humidity. I've had bad results from applying a finish on a rainy day...
__________________ Jim The limits of the imagination are imaginary. No task is too tedious for Art. Rock and Scroll My Gallery My Website Featherwood Woodcrafts |
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Barnesville, GA *Buggytown*
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here’s the horsey ‘re-do’….got it sanded down, now waitin for the weather to get above the 40’s before i re-dye, and finish it
__________________ Tim If everyone is thinking alike, then somebody isn’t thinking. -George S. Patton |
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