What I learned about Cocobolo this week - Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board

flyboy · 10-31-2009, 01:52 AM

Per the info I have received, Cocobolo is Rosewood, which is an oily wood, and its natural oils and other compounds will not let oil finshes dry properly. Too bad, it's so beautiful, too.

Soooo...I called Herrett's, who made my Cocobolo revolver grips. THEY have a beautiful finish.

The tech told me they use Formby's high-gloss Tung oil to finish them. I ran right out and bought some, and tried the Formby's on some Cocobolo grips I made Mark II. I wiped the grips with denatured alcohol before applying the oil, to no avail.

I called Formby's today, and the rep said absolutely NOT to use Formby's on Cocobolo! I wish I still had the receipt; I'd return it. But, it works very well on other woods of a more domestic variety, so I guess I will keep it. .

As I learned here, I settled for spraying the Cocobolo with 2 coats of Zinssers Bull's Eye Sealcoat, which is a dewaxed shellac, and will stick to the Cocobolo, and allow oils to be used over it. I was told you can put anything over the shellac, and it seems to have worked. Nice finish so far. Thank you!

A local hero from another forum stated that Ultraviolet light was the key to drying any linseed oil-based finish. HUH? So,like a bunny ,I took my projects for a sun bath! HOW does that work?

I called a friend, who manages a paint store, and he had never heard about UV being necessary for proper curing of oil-based finishes. Hmmmm...

He also said that Turpentine is a better thinner for Linseed oil based products than mineral spirits, paint thinner, lighter fluid, or some of the other things used as thinner.

Since the suggestion about the shellac, my finishing is going miles better. Thanks to those on the forum who took the time to remove some of the mystery from finishing a real bear of a wood.

I don't know how much of this is common knowledge, but I thought it just might help a newbie having problems with finishing.

Again, with thanks to those who took the time to help .

sawdustus · 10-31-2009, 01:12 PM

You might try the following suggestion, taken from Bob Flexner's book Understanding Wood Finishing, and reiterated on Norm Abrams New Yankee Workshop show several times, when trying to put a finish on any oily wood.

Use a clean rag and acetone to wipe down the surface of the oily wood to be finished. This will remove the woods oils from the surface. Do this immediately prior to putting on the first coat of finish. The acetone will remove the surface oil and if you put the finish on right away, it will stick to the now "clean" wood. Since acetone evaporates very quickly the oils will not have time to resurface while you put on the first coat of finish. Basically, its --- wipe a surface clean, put on finish, wipe another surface clean, put on finish etc..

george

flyboy · 10-31-2009, 11:23 PM

Thank you. I will try that.

longbowman67 · 12-07-2009, 02:26 AM

You also could do a search for custom longbow and recurve makers and ask them as they are using different exotic woods in the grips on bows. Could also ask about the glues as well if you ever decide or need to glue some together or to other woods. Dave

10-31-2009, 01:52 AM	#1
flyboy Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 45	What I learned about Cocobolo this week Per the info I have received, Cocobolo is Rosewood, which is an oily wood, and its natural oils and other compounds will not let oil finshes dry properly. Too bad, it's so beautiful, too. Soooo...I called Herrett's, who made my Cocobolo revolver grips. THEY have a beautiful finish. The tech told me they use Formby's high-gloss Tung oil to finish them. I ran right out and bought some, and tried the Formby's on some Cocobolo grips I made Mark II. I wiped the grips with denatured alcohol before applying the oil, to no avail. I called Formby's today, and the rep said absolutely NOT to use Formby's on Cocobolo! I wish I still had the receipt; I'd return it. But, it works very well on other woods of a more domestic variety, so I guess I will keep it. . As I learned here, I settled for spraying the Cocobolo with 2 coats of Zinssers Bull's Eye Sealcoat, which is a dewaxed shellac, and will stick to the Cocobolo, and allow oils to be used over it. I was told you can put anything over the shellac, and it seems to have worked. Nice finish so far. Thank you! A local hero from another forum stated that Ultraviolet light was the key to drying any linseed oil-based finish. HUH? So,like a bunny ,I took my projects for a sun bath! HOW does that work? I called a friend, who manages a paint store, and he had never heard about UV being necessary for proper curing of oil-based finishes. Hmmmm... He also said that Turpentine is a better thinner for Linseed oil based products than mineral spirits, paint thinner, lighter fluid, or some of the other things used as thinner. Since the suggestion about the shellac, my finishing is going miles better. Thanks to those on the forum who took the time to remove some of the mystery from finishing a real bear of a wood. I don't know how much of this is common knowledge, but I thought it just might help a newbie having problems with finishing. Again, with thanks to those who took the time to help .

10-31-2009, 01:12 PM	#2
sawdustus Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Jersey Posts: 2,255	You might try the following suggestion, taken from Bob Flexner's book Understanding Wood Finishing, and reiterated on Norm Abrams New Yankee Workshop show several times, when trying to put a finish on any oily wood. Use a clean rag and acetone to wipe down the surface of the oily wood to be finished. This will remove the woods oils from the surface. Do this immediately prior to putting on the first coat of finish. The acetone will remove the surface oil and if you put the finish on right away, it will stick to the now "clean" wood. Since acetone evaporates very quickly the oils will not have time to resurface while you put on the first coat of finish. Basically, its --- wipe a surface clean, put on finish, wipe another surface clean, put on finish etc.. george __________________ A day without sawdust is a day without sunshine. George delta 650, hawk G426

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10-31-2009, 11:23 PM	#3
flyboy Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Posts: 45	Thank you. I will try that.

12-07-2009, 02:26 AM	#4
longbowman67 Junior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 2	You also could do a search for custom longbow and recurve makers and ask them as they are using different exotic woods in the grips on bows. Could also ask about the glues as well if you ever decide or need to glue some together or to other woods. Dave