just how do you get into those little holes??

[theresa]

Hi everyone. I am new to the area but have read many posts here and they have helped tremendously.
I have only recently returned to the scroll saw and just completed my first project for a long time. It is a box with a victorian fret work design on the sides. I am far from happy with it but have learnt many things along the way so therefore it was all worth it, but in future I hope I improve a lot more. However I have no idea of how to get into the tiny areas of cut work. Is it necessary to oil or finish those areas or are they ok as they are? And if so how do I go about it? And what about staining areas like these. I cant image using a small brush to get into these areas I was thinking of letting them soak in whatever. Would this be right?

Theresa

[JohnB]

G'day Theresa,
First Welcome to another Aussie, you can't help who your neighbours are

As for staining intricately cut pieces, I would stay well away from it.
The stains tend to soak into the end grain and bleed over the edges giving dark corners and an uneven finish.

I use spray Lacquer to finish my stuff. You don't have to aim into the cnrs and small cut outs, just spray a light coat from all four directions, let dry, cut back lightly and re coat.

I use spray equipment, but pressure pacs work just as well.

[sawdustus]

I can think of three ways that I use Theresa.
One is to dip the article in your stain or finish, let it soak in, then drain it on some paper towels, blow out any liquid that is still in the tiny frets and wipe the surface with a lint free cloth.
A second is to use a small brush with long hairs and dab your stain or finish into all the holes, then blow out any excess and wipe it smooth.
A third is to very lightly spray the stain or finish and hope it gets into all the frets (it usually takes spraying from all four directions on the front and back to accomplish this).
I prefer the first if you have a big enough tray but I do use the other two. I spray if I am painting an ornament a base or single color and I use a brush if I don't have a big enough dipping tray.

george

[ncsealeveler]

I cut alot of names out of 1" walnut and had a problem spraying the varnish in the crevices with an airbrush.I found that if I set the names on the edges of a plastic bowl I could spray into the crevices easily.Tony

[Bill Wilson]

I've used all 3 techniques, dipping, spraying and brushing. Dipping is most effective at full coverage of all the nooks and crannies, but can be pretty messy. Works best with oil stains and finishes that soak into the wood. Like John, I tend to avoid stains, trying to use different species of woods to achieve the look I want.

I like to spray finishes on. I use rattle cans of varnish or lacquer, waterborne or oil based as well as spray equipment. You can do a pretty good job of getting into most of the tight spots, just be careful not to apply too much finish at one time, trying to hit from all angles. You may need to let the piece dry a bit between applications.

I will brush on a finish usually only as a last resort. I will brush if I'm painting the piece or if I really need to control where the color or finish goes.

[rja]

I have found that a pipe cleaner works well for getting stain or varnish into small openings.

[Harry]

Hello Theresa!

I have been scrolling for nearly fifteen years and try not to use stain especially on end grain which seems to absorb more and leaves an ugly muddy look, or if the wood is uneven in texture it will leave an uneven finish which can spoil a nice piece of work. I use aerosol laquer for my projects or if the project is small soak in Danish oil ,or whatever.

Carry on scrolling.

Harry UK

Hegner Multicut (2)

[larryf]

Theresa,
As you can tell there are many different ways to finish your work. I agree that stains can make your finished work look unclean paticularly on the end grain. I cut alot of projects from baltic Burch and I have found danish oil to be the best in bringing out the color and grain of the wood. it is thin enough that if you use a brush and apply it libreraly using a dabbing motion in the cut areas it will fill nicley. Let it soak in awhile and then use a towel Paper or cloth to remove the excess as well as air as has been previously suggested. Let this dry over night then apply a sanding sealer after it drys lightly sand with 320 grit sanding paper and then finish with a laquer finish. The danish oil does darken the end grain but also adds a contrasting highlight to the lighter surface area. Anyway use some of your scraps and experiment with different finishes. Then choose the one you like best there really is no right or wrong just different ideas!! Have fun.

Larry

[theresa]

Thanks soooooo much for all your information you really have enlightened me. I had been using the spray varnish on simple scrolled projects but once I wanted to use the nice wood I wanted the nice finish too. I am glad to hear of the many ways to achieve this.

[wood-n-things]

Once you have that piece you spent all that time on making it meet your standards.

Kick it up a notch. final step use liquid gold, a quick wipe and it will be smooth as a babies bum..