Baltic Birch problems

[smw6442]

I'm looking for something that i can use on baltic birch. i've been making overlays with 1/8" and 1/4" ... i most of the item i make i put in lemon oil to bring out the wood color and grain and then spray with clear to protect it.. but the baltic birch looks blochy when soking in lemon oil.. is there anything that i can use to make birch look better.. any types of wash that would work...steve

[sawdustus]

Steve, try using a wash coat of dewaxed shellac to partly seal birch ply. I usually make a dilution of 2 parts Zinsser Seal Coat and 1 part denatured alcohol and brush a very light coat of it on. A light 320 grit sanding to remove the fuzzies and I'm ready to stain or seal the birch ply. Zinsser also makes a spray can of the dewaxed shellac but I usually use that for fretwork pieces I want to stain.

george

[smw6442]

Thanks George, i'll try that

[georgewoodie]

Hello smw6442:

I use a lot of Baltic Birch for jigs, furniture, boxes and other items.

After a gradual sanding grades from 180 to 220, I finish all with a polyurethane I get from Minwax. I find that I get a very pleasant colour and good protection this way. I started out with Varathane but found a change in the product so I went to petroleum base Minwax products. I like the oil base product as it is floor quality so I hope it will be tougher. Okay so far.

I do not use a lot and a litre being the smallest quantity I can buy leaves me with material left over. I find that storing it too long results in it's deterioration.

I use glass preserve jars of 250 ml each. I add 10% solvent [petroleum base] to four of these jars then top full with the polyurethane and seal closed. I do not want to have any air in these filled jars. I usually have some left over in the original can so I add some solvent to that and use it right away on the project at hand or will use a 5th jar for the remainder. I use metal cutters to cut out about an inch of the rim of the can for pouring but still manage to slop some on my bench. So lots of old newspaper under my work.

When I apply the finish, I first wipe down the project with a solvent rag to pick up any sawdust. I will then apply very sparing coats of my diluted varnish. I use a brush on larger projects or a cotton wipe on smaller ones. I then let the project dry overnight and apply more coats of finish. I like to get at least 4 coats, more if possible, each drying well for 24 hours or thereabouts.

When I have done the last coat, I sand wet with solvent and 600 wet dry. Wipe away the wet material right away or you will get white residue left over that will spoil your finished appearance. If your project does not allow a wiping when done, try a cut down old tooth brush [makes the brush stiffer].

I have noticed that visitors will touch a finished project as a means of judgment. Needing all the help I can get, I apply a coat of beeswax to the project and buff. This gives the project a smooth silky finish and makes me appear to be a better wood worker than I deserve. But like I said, I want all the help I can get.

I have been using the polyurethane for some time now and gave up on tung oil a long time ago. I found it blochy and a long time to dry. Likely due to my lack of skill.

I hope you find this of help.

I got the idea of solvent dilution and solvent wipe down from a Fine Woodworking magazine article.

Woodie