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Wood Finishing and Painting | |||
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| | #1 |
| Member Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 43
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Last winter, I purchased a set of very nice Cocobolo grips for my revolver. the last set of Cocobolo grips I made have darkened, because I left them unfinished, just sanded to 1000 grit, due to the problems described in other Cocobolo threads...non-drying of finish, and not filling the grain. ![]() My plan for both of the grip pairs is as follows: Rasp and plane as needed, sand to lighter wood and final dimensions. Fill the grain with something that won't darken or stain the wood. Suggestions as to how and what will be greatfully received! Acetone or denatured alcohol wipe, then finish with something...dunno what, based upon my last results. Various methods have been suggested, including super glue, which causes an allergic reation for me, which I will avoid using forever, if possible. With the expertise we have here, I'm sure there are at least a couple of good solutions available. Can anyone see a problem with what I want to do? Help, please! Thanks |
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| | #2 |
| So much better :) Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: PA
Posts: 2,662
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I use Minwax - Fast Drying - Polyurethane - Clear Satin. I never have a problem with the finish. Give it a try.
__________________ - Rick |
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| | #3 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Stoughton, WI
Posts: 18
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I did a set for my 44 mag. I used ENVIROTEX LITE it comes in 2 parts and you mix it 50/50 It is like using 50 coats of varnish gives a real deep looking finish but if you have checkering it will fill it up. I brushed it on and let dry for 72 hrs and if you get a drip you can sand it and buff to bring back the gloss look. I also use it on walking sticks seems to hold up real good just a thought that you might look into. |
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| | #4 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2007 Location: Montgomery, NY
Posts: 126
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I am making a set for my .45 out of cocobolo. I am still working on them just need a few more coats of clear. By the way, thats a good idea about the envirotex, Im gonna try that on my next set. I just use two coats of sanding sealer, then deft spray lacquer sand in between and repeat lots of times. That seems to be the only way I have been able to fill in all of the pores. Heres another set I made from zebrawood.
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| | #5 |
| Member Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 43
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Thank you all very much! USMC; Wow!...them's Nize! |
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| | #6 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Jan 2009
Posts: 10
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I used Tru Oil on mine. After I got them to the shape I wanted, I wiped it very liberally with acetone. I have heard of some soaking them over night, but didn't find it necessary. I used Tru Oil wiped on with a finger tip a drop at a time. It dries relatively quickly. I repeated until I got the pores filled and the desired finish. Light sanding between coats will remove the surface while the pores fill.) Enjoy the feel of the custom fit.
__________________ 431pd ![]() |
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| | #7 |
| Master Scroller Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Eaton Rapids Michigan
Posts: 2,474
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you can buy pore filler to fill the pores in just one swipe then let it dry and sand it flat. It dries clear. I would put one coat of shellac on the wood, then when that dries spray it with whatever finish you want. Shellac will adhere with no issues to oily wood. anything can be sprayed over shellac. I'd go for an acrylic urethane if saving the natural color is your goal. Acrylic finishes have a minimum 5% UV rating. The acrylic will stand up to your oily hands no problem. What I don't know, is if the gun cleaning spray is very toxic. It is possible that the gun spray will damage the finish. Of course, that spray might damage any finish over time. Waxing the final product really good, and keeping it well waxed, will keep the cleaner from contacting the finish.
__________________ Jeff Powell |
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