How to stain maple?

[greatdane2]

I made the stacking cats out of the magazine, I now relize that I should of done it with dogs!!!
Anway I am using Flecto varathane water base dark walnut, but the wood is absorbing the stain very uneven. I tried a light coat and it looked crappy, so I sanded it of and redid it with a lot thicker coat. when it dried it still looks splotchy. If anyone has an idea of what I should try next please jump in.
I am making this for a freind from england that is visiting my mom and she leaves tommorow. I have had the flu for the last 4 days and could not get out to the shop, so now am short on time.

Thanks, Alan.

[marshall]

Alan : I would use a pre-stain from minwax , I've had good luck with it . Maple has been a pain for me also and I've found that leather dye works real well on maple for staining . The leather dye is high but you can delute it to make it lighter. Believe or not in making Christmas Oranments out of it I paint it most the time . I have a friend that makes a lot of big items and he's not had the best of luck in staining the maple , he's got where he uses the maple in the places where you don't see it much now ! He'll use a lot of Oak and Walnut mostly now . Just maybe this will help you some !!!!! If for some reason someone else has a better idea , I'll be keeping an eye on this post !! Marshall

[greatdane2]

OK, thanks. I am sanding all the stain off the surfaces, but the sides are going to have to stay the way they are.

Alan.

[Forester21]

Don't sand too smooth first of all. And wipe the sawdust off with a rag dampened with water.
Then soak the item in the stain - don't just put it on with a rag, but pour it on!If it looks like it is soaked in, add more. Then, after it has soaked in for 15 minutes or so, you can wipe off the excess stain.

Those were the instructions I got in the only finishing "class" I took. And it was for all wood types - not specifically maple. The idea is that if you rub some on with a rag, the stain will go into the open pores quickly, and there won't be enough stain to soak into the pores that aren't as "open". So you need to make sure that there is enough stain there to soak in and get the uniform color.

[greatdane2]

Thanks Theresa, I fixed the problem. I added it to the scrap pile and started again, but cut 2 sets. one out of maple and the other with purple heart. Started at 9 last night and finally got them sanded and the first coat of varathane on them. Its now 6 am so I still have 10 hours to finish it. Who needs sleep! I can just imagine what Christmas will be like if this keeps up. lol.

Alan.

[guitarman]

Is there some kind of sealer you could put on or maybe spray on to seal the pores so it could be stained. I don't know. Just asking. David

[sawdustus]

Maple, birch and pine are blotchy woods that stain unevenly. A sanding sealer is the answer. My choice is dewaxed shellac from Zinsser. Here is what I do.

Sand to at least 220 grit wiping of the dust with a tack cloth. A damp rag will raise the grain and you will have to sand and wipe again.
Dilute the dewaxed shellac with denatured alcohol; I use about a 4 part shellac to 1 part alcohol mix.
Brush on or dip the piece, let it dry, sand smooth and tack off the dust.
Put on any stain or finish you want. It will stick to the dewaxed shellac.

I also use the dewaxed shellac as a sealer when working with oak or any other open grained wood such as mahogany, to keep from needing four or five coats of varnish to seal it.

Hope this helps.

sawdustus

[Wood Dog]

I use a sanding sealer and a gel stain

[Ramjet]

A few books I've seen refer to shellac as a sealer LOL.
Roger

[Pajaro]

Great advice from all of you. My down fall has been getting a great finish (I think I am up to a good finish now) but short of Great. Thanks for the Info.