| |
|
Subscribe Today!
| Magazine
| Scroll Saw Community
| Reader's Poll | | Testimonials Fantastic magazine, I love it! I wanted to make sure that I didn't miss an issue. I only wish that it came out more often... | | Found the Fox? 
| |
Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account.
As a registered member you will be able to:
- Browse over 35,000 posts.
- Communicate privately with other scrollers from around the world.
- Post your own photos or view from 2,000 user submitted images.
- Gain access to exclusive scroll saw promotions offered by Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts and Fox Chapel Publishing.
All this and much more is available to you absolutely free when you register for an account, so sign up today!
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team.
| Wood Finishing and Painting |
08-25-2008, 06:42 PM
|
#1 | | Member
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Wynne,AR
Posts: 68
| Need help on Watco Danish Oil Hi everyone, I have read where alot of you use the danish oil to finish your products with. Can someone explain this to me.Let me tell you what I'm doing first.
I have had a lady to ask me to make a lincense plate for her new truck.(This is new to me by itself) So I know I need to finish it with something that will hold up outside. I bought some danish oil and some Minwax indoor/outdoor Helmsman spar urethane. Will this work on the lincense plate and how is the best way to apply the danish oil?
Thanks for your help. Donnab |
| |
08-25-2008, 10:05 PM
|
#2 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 1,462
| Well from my experience, Danish Oil is not for something that is going to be touched or felt lots and definately not for outside use. If I use Danish Oil (and I do pretty often) I will use it on a piece to be looked at, but not touched.
You will need to put a clear coat of something tough on that...
Either wipe on and wipe off the Danish Oil or dunk the piece and let is soak a few minutes.
Tom |
| |
08-25-2008, 10:41 PM
|
#3 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 877
| DonnaB, I would use a marine spar varnish. You should be able to find it at a boat shop or paint store such as Mautz, Sherwin Williams, etc.
__________________
Mick, - Delta P-20
|
| |
08-25-2008, 11:20 PM
|
#4 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: washington state
Posts: 192
| I agree with f250, , DO NOT use it for exterior items, , , I learned the hard way and now have a oak glider to strip and do the right way |
| |
08-26-2008, 01:11 AM
|
#5 | | Wood Mauler
Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: South Jordan Utah
Posts: 641
| Definitely stick with the marine grade Spar Varnish |
| |
08-26-2008, 09:08 PM
|
#6 | | Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Butler, PA
Posts: 338
| I'm going to throw this suggestion out there, having never tried it myself, so take it for what it's worth.
Consider using a clear base for an exterior, oil based paint. This is the product that they pull off the shelves before they add the color. Since no coloration is added, the finish ends up clear, if you select the proper base. There are different grades depending on what the final intended color is. For example, Brand X House & Trim paint may employ 4 different bases, numbered 1-4. If so, #4 is typically used for the darkest colors and dries the clearest. Lower numbered bases used for lighter colors and are more opaque. The advantage of using this product is that you get all the advantages of a good quality exterior paint (it contains the mildewcides, fungicides and UV inhibitors absent from some other outdoor finishes) at the same relatively reasonable cost. From that I've heard, true marine spar varnish, like what you would buy at a boat supply store, is very expensive.
As I said, I've never tried this, only read about it on another forum, but am intrigued about the possibilities. I haven't done any projects lately that require a clear outdoor finish, but when I do, I will definitely try this method.
Go to a good, specialty paint store and ask someone there about this. They may have never heard of using clear base like this, but the concept sounds very logical.
Good luck!
__________________
"I'm a white male, aged 18 to 49. Everyone listens to me! No matter how dumb my suggestions are."
|
| |
08-27-2008, 12:11 AM
|
#7 | | Member
Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Wynne,AR
Posts: 68
| Thank you everyone for your help.Unfortually I don't live close to a marine shop to try that but the next time I'm in one I will buy some.Thanks Donnab |
| |
08-27-2008, 12:20 AM
|
#8 | | Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008 Location: Vancouver Island, BC. Canada
Posts: 1,876
| Marine spar varnish should be available at hardware stores, It is an exallent product that can be used on doors etc. Home Depot carries it here.
I use it a lot and have found the oil base expencive stuff works best and will last many years in full sunlight. as in my front doors are cedar and its been 12 or 13 years since I redid them and they still look great. I finish about half of my intarsia and segment pieces with this product, both for the look of it and also to protect the piece from dings.
Alan. |
| | | Thread Tools | | | | Display Modes | Linear Mode |
Posting Rules
| You may not post new threads You may not post replies You may not post attachments You may not edit your posts HTML code is Off | | | All times are GMT. The time now is 10:56 PM. | |