Dying plywood jigsaw pieces with aniline stain

[oldjohnevans]

I make jigsaw puzzles from 1/4" aircraft quality BB plywood. I do not use pictures rather I achieve my effects by cutting large and very complex puzzle pieces. I make each piece stand out by dying them with different colors of aniline stains. I use Behlin Master Dry Powder Aniline Stains dissolved in Wood Alcohol. I get complete coverage by dipping each piece in the dye solution for one second. They look very nice.

BUT there is a problem. The pieces increase in size. Not much but enough so that the pieces no longer fit together. This swelling in permanent. Drying does not help. My solution is to increase the size of the scroll saw blade. I am now cutting with #9 blade. The pieces are snug but fit together easily.

Has anyone else encountered this problem. Has anyone any ideas on what kind of finish I could put on the pieces. The finish cannot enlarge the pieces nor stick them together. Right now I am experimenting with Conservator's paste wax from Lee Valley Tools.

[Forester21]

Have you tried the leather dyes?

[earlinjax]

I thought that alcohol based dyes weren't supposed to affect the wood. Have you tried wiping on the stain rather than dipping? Might result in less liquid getting into the wood.

And, I would try leather dyes. I have used them and like them but for what I did I would not notice if the wood expanded.

Earl

[jigsue]

As said by Earl, I think the problem lies in the dipping - immersing them in liquid of any description will cause swelling. When making jigsaws, (I usually paint mine with acrylic), I am always careful not to get paint on to the cut edge for this reason. This is even harder with stains. I would suggest you wiped the stain on with the cloth as dry as possible. Alternatevely, try watered down acrylic paint, put on with a brush, quite dry. You can then apply a spray varnish once the puzzle has been re-assembled - it does come apart again, quite easily.

Sue

[PeteB]

I once heated up a puzzle that had been finished with shellac and managed to stick it to a piece of shop plywood. In an attempt to get it loose, I flooded it with alcohol and observed the swelling that you describe.

I agree with Sue that it would probably be best to brush or each piece. watch your ventilation.

For finishing, I recommend wiping on Minwax Tung Oil finish, after the puzzle is reassembled. Three coats followed by rubbing out the final coat with 0000 steel wool gives a very dressy semi-gloss finish, IMO. It does not yellow like some other finishes.

[oldjohnevans]

Perhaps in my first paragraph I did not make myself clear.
1) Action: I dipped jigsaw puzzle pieces in wood alcohol and aniline dye
2) Result: Bad - the pieces swelled up so they would not fit together.
3) Result: Good - In one second the piece was beautifully stained with a rich vibrant color.
4) Solution: I get the speed and quality of color and make the pieces fit together by using a larger scroll saw blade

[lucky788scroller]

OK..I read it twice now.I was under the understanding you were having troubles and wanted to still achieve the crisp tight turns of a smaller blade, yet still use the aniline dye dipping as a finish. I dont know if all aniline dyes are created equal,I have used aniline dyes and havent noticed any problems with swelling .

[minowevie]

John, sounds like you figured out the remady , using a wider blade helped you make up the differance or kerf after dying. I have never done this, but looks like you have something there. wondering. is it harder to cut the puzzlale with the biger blade? where there is a will . haha. I would like to see a picture. your friend Evie

[oldjohnevans]

I tried painting stain, with a small brush, just the top and bottom of the piece, and not the sides. It did not work for me. I do not have the skill, steady hands, nor the patience of Job. A friend suggested that I use ink pads. So I bought $40 worth of ink pads. That did not work either. It was too expensive, the pads were too small for my large pieces, the color selection was limited and unlike aniline dyes that dry in seconds the commercial ink pads took 40 minutes to dry. Next day the ink pads went back to the store.

I spent the next day trying to figure out how I can "Stain both side of a jigsaw puzzle piece, without staining the sides, without getting my hands stained, in two seconds". Eureka! Make an aniline dye ink pad. Here is how.

Materials: A small piece of plate glass, a yard of flannelet from WalMart, a yard of fuzzy fleese from WalMart, bottles of aniline dyes dissolved in wood alcohol, a table spoon and rubber gloves.

Method: Spread the flannelet on the glass and place the fleese beside it. Pour a table spoon full of dye on the flannelet. Press the puzzle piece on the wet flannelet, turn it over and press again, and toss the piece on to the fleese to dry.

I would be glad to send a picture but I do not know how, size , format etc.

John

[oldjohnevans]

Tonight I ran an experiment, staining maple panels with aniline dyes dissolved in wood alcohol. Using a #3 blade I cut complex Jigsaw puzzle pieces in a 2 ply 5/16" thick maple panel that I had made. As described before I dipped the pieces in the stain for one second. After the pieces were dry I reassembled the pieces without trouble. Needless to say I will stop using plywood and from now on cut all of my puzzles from hardwood panels that I make for myself.

I also observed that the maple took up less dye leaving the distinctive and beautiful grain of the wood showing through.