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07-15-2008, 02:56 PM
| #1 |
| Member  Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 75
|  Please help me with my finish I want to finish my Walnut but don't want the look of lacqure. I want to try a rub on polish to bring out the grain and add luster. I've never used this type before so I'm lost. Should I go with Tung oil, Linseed oil, beeswax, any other suggestions. Please help Ben |
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07-15-2008, 04:18 PM
| #2 |
| Big Sky Scroller Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Polson, MT
Posts: 27
| Ben, I use Old Masters wipe on gel varnish. It is easy to apply with a rag or fingers. I put on multiple coats until the finish feels right to me. I top this off with a couple of coats of paste wax. Don |
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07-15-2008, 05:49 PM
| #3 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 1,462
| And it really depends on the traffic the piece will get. I love to use Danish Oil, but if the peice will be touched or used lots (like a table) then I will put some Tung Oil on for a tougher finish. Tom |
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07-15-2008, 07:10 PM
| #4 |
| Intarsia Moderator  Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Eugene, Oregon
Posts: 1,054
| I guess it depends on the type of project. If it were intarsia- I'd recommend something like Bartley's gel varnish. ...but that wouldn't work very well for fret work. |
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07-15-2008, 08:26 PM
| #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 874
| Ben, I like to finish walnut with a polyurethane varnish. For furniture, I wipe on several coats sanding with 320 grit paper between coats. For fretwork, I usually just spray it on from a can. You can use gloss, semigloss or satin (matte) depending on your liking. Since walnut is an open grained wood and likes to absorb finish by the gallon, a coat of Zinsser Seal Coat dewaxed shellac as a first coat really cuts down on the number of varnish coats. sawdustus
__________________ A day without sawdust is a day without sunshine. George delta 650, hawk G426 |
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07-15-2008, 09:04 PM
| #6 |
| Senior Member  Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 877
| Ben, my favorite finish for walnut is Formby's wipe on tung oil finish which contains little or no actual tung oil. Don't know why they call it tung oil finish. Available in satin or gloss, I prefer the satin. The first couple coats will soak in, just keep applying coats until you get the sheen you like. I let it dry over night between coats and sand lightly with 320 or 400 grit paper between coats.
__________________ Mick, - Delta P-20 |
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07-15-2008, 09:47 PM
| #7 |
| Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 75
| Great info. Thanks all Ben |
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07-16-2008, 01:55 PM
| #8 |
| Member Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Toronto, Canada
Posts: 75
| Do you need a sealer after Tonge oil is dry or can you just leave it? Ben |
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07-16-2008, 04:57 PM
| #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: Albuquerque
Posts: 1,462
| If you put enough coats of Tung Oil on, it will be sealed and water tight. I have some stereo speakers I coated with Tung Oil over 20 years ago. The kids are setting drinks and spilling on them all the time. No water stains at all  Tom |
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07-17-2008, 07:35 AM
| #10 |
| Dino  Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Fergus Falls,MN
Posts: 685
| I guess it depends on the project. I have used a lot of Black Walnut and have had great results with natural Danish oil. If the project does not contain to much Fret work I like to wet sand with Danish oil. Gets smooth as glass if I want it to, with a bit of a satin finish. I think you would like the results. I have finished with Polyurethane also. Dean |
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