Deft - Spray - Brush

[Barefoot1]

So I am down to the finish, pun intended, on the chess board and was interested in Deft Lacquer finish. I am using the spray for the chess pieces and have done a test piece already, it is out drying in the shop now. Next will be the board and the case, I am considering using either Deft or Wipe on Poly. If you have used Deft, I am interested in your opinion of its performance. I am not the greatest when it comes to finishes etcetera so ease of use and simplicity in achieving good results are a big plus.

Is Deft strictly brush on? or can it be wiped on? When doing the chess board I definitely do not want brush strokes to show later.

[thecopperfish]

I use Deft spray and am very happy with it. I would not try to brush it or wipe it. I use a bunch of thin coats and lightly sand inbetween.
Chris

[Chase]

I also use Deft spray.

One technique I use is Deft sanding sealer first, Deft Gloss, then several coats of Deft satin. Interesting effect.

Chase

[workin for wood]

Ok, I'm not a finishing expert. I feel like Deft being laquer is less durable than a polyurethane finish. That's the first thing I would investigate since we are talking about something that has to endure the acidic environment that fingers produce as well as the constant tapping of pieces together. Laquer is a common pen finish but it doesn't hold up, fingers eat it, it's not hard enough and wears off in a few months with constant use. Chess pieces may not get the use a pen does, but non the less, you want a life-time finish. I think poly is stronger. Laquer also ages in time making it more brittle, this I do know to be true. Fine on the wall, but I think not for chess.

A strong super duty easy to apply finish would be a catalized acrylic polyurethane, but I doubt you have that and the spray equipment. If you can find someone that does, that would be best, but if you drink alcohol, that is the wrong finish for sure.

What I think I would do is go with a teak oil. Soaks in to bond the pores of the wood. Several coats can be applied to build an actual coating. It can be cleaned. It will wear well, but in time will wear down a bit but is easily re-freshened with just a rag and some more teak oil. My second choice is just to spray with minwax polyurethane. It's strong, will hold up for quite some time and is easy to clean. It's a bit more work when eventually you have to re-finish, but totally do-able. First I'd research, perhaps find a chess club and poll them on what is best. I think Deft would be near the bottom of what is right for this job, but might be completely wrong. Hope that helps you to get it right the first time. No doubt a chess set is alot of work and you don't want to use it as an experiment.

[minowevie]

I have to tell you Jeff is soooo right. Deft is awsom. but I only use it on my fretwork. lacy stuff. I love the way it leavales out becouse I have to spray it inbetween my frets. and that can build up and run on you if your using laquier. and it works great for me. in that aria. but. liston to jeff. for that is a more lasting finish for a chess piece. just my 2 cents. your friend Evie

[GrayBeard Phil]

Original Deft is getting hard to find in some places due to its high Volatile Organic Compounds (VOC) which has been restricted in some communities in USA. Glad to hear you can find it where you live in Utah. You might want to consider a VOC rated mask, due to the stink of the "Aromatic" nature of the fumes. Should cost about $28.00 USD.

Brush Deft:
Thin coats is the name of the game. Deft is very, VERY good at levelling (smoothing out brush strokes on it's own.) The newer acrylic lacquers substitutes are less so great in the levelling, IMHO.

And don't go cheap with the brushes you use for Original Deft. And you need to purchase "Lacquer Thinner" for clean up. Never use Mineral Spirits with Original Deft (Read and follow instructions on can.) Really inexpensive brushes (truly cheap-ies) will dissolve or melt in true "lacquer Thinner". Most BORGS still carry lacquer thinner, although not inexpensively. Your choice if you want to test your brushes in L.T. before you open the can of Deft.

IIRC, the original NC Lacquer Deft each coat burns, or melts, into the layer below, creating a tight chemical bond between each layer. However, should any lower layer have a curtain run, sagging, or excess finish bubble.....well you need to fix it before the next layer goes on. "Cause you ain't going to fix it with the next brushed on layer. EVER.

There are a few other points about brush on Deft, but you will discover them on your own.

Also, the above is why so, SO many people liked and used(!!) spray on Deft.

Phil

PS: I agree with Jeff--CAT laquer would be best, but that sure ain't something a homeowner should be messing with. Need full, no joke, spray booth: an OSHA type booth.

[workin for wood]

I use catalysed acrylic polyurethane, not laquer. It is far safer on the environment and the human body. Yes, I still wear a full face mask. It's durability and strength are phenominal, thus it's ever building popularity in kitchen cabinet making. I don't have a spray booth, I spray outside. That's why my picture isn't done yet as you don't spray outside if it's raining or too windy. Dust is not an issue, the finish sets within a minute and dries enough to be sanded in about 20 minutes. The finish is hard like nails and seems to never wear or dull. But..no finish is perfect. Harsh cleaners can dull or even cause the finish to become milky. Alcohol dissolves the finish, so if you set your beer or glass of wine on a table finished with it, you are asking for possible disaster should you spill any. When you buy a house, it sure would be nice if they would let you know what the finish is on the cabinets with a sticker inside a door or something. I have a door with milky spot on one of my kitchen cabinets because wife used "The Works" othewise known as PSP to clean off something. Now I know my cabinets are cat acrylic poly. That wouldn't happen on an oil based poly.

In just a few minutes of poking around on yahoo, I see chess sets in Poly, not in laquer. that's not exactly research, just a quick glance around at what's being sold.

[azbison]

Thomas, On my chessboard, I originall finished it with brush on poly. I was never happy with that finish and as it sat on my desk with water glasses and coke cans sitting on it, I ended up with rings on the finish. So I sanded it down and put about 8 coats of deft spray lacquer on it and the finish is fantastic. It's more even than the brush on and it's good and hard.

[Barefoot1]

Very interesting - I have used the spray on the pieces, obviously that was not going to be a brush on and then a wipe on poly for the board, case and drawer fronts. (which by the way, came out totally bitchin! (can I say that??)

I am going to wait until it is finished completely before I post any more pics. I did the round over trim today for the top outside edge of the case that meets the edge of the board, since the case is mahogany I trimmed it in walnut, mounted the drawer handles to the fronts and will mount the fronts to the drawers tomorrow when they are dry. i also got the felt on the bottom of the pieces and the piece backs glued down in the drawer bottoms. I am dang near finished! Maybe this weekend!