using airbrushes

[jcb19983]

I was wondering if anyone uses airbrushes for there work, and if so what kind.

[jigsue]

For small pieces, I still use a brush or a sponge, unless I am doing lots of the same colour small pieces or for large flattish areas of one colour, I use a Badger airbrush.

I have built a box to spray in which vents (with the aid of a bathroom fan) to the outside. Because of the lack of space, the box folds up and stores. I spray on shelves of chicken wire and can leave them there to dry.

For the smaller pieces, it just isn't worth the assembly of the box, also you always mix too much paint and acrylics crust over when you try and store them, clogging the airbrush

Sue

[bigEd_H]

I don't see why not. I have several airbrushes but haven't used them to finish a scroll saw project yet. I'd suggest using paints and finishes made specifically for airbrushing though. Something like Createx airbrush paint would be best since it is made for using on fabric, wood, plastics etc.

Take a look on Ebay for airbrushes. There are several inexpensive brushes available rather than paying a premium for a Paashe or SATA etc. You can pay as much as the price of a top of the line scroll saw for one of the brand name brushes.

One advantage of using an airbrush is that you can give your project more of a 3D look by merely highlighting small areas.

[SNAPPER]

Have a Coleman Critter air brush. Do not use it on scroll work. I usually finish with a Danish Oil.
Dean

[GrayBeard Phil]

JCB:

back in October of 2005 we had another thread on airbrushes.

It all depends on what you intend to spray. Some finish products will work quite well with an airbrush, others won't. It all depends on the molecules of the finish product. (basically you have to test the product yourself.)

You will need the largest nozzle your airbrush maker sells. In the case of Pasche (IMHO the largest volume seller) you have to special order the large nozzle, IIRC.

Be aware, airbrushes are notorious for only putting about 80% of the finish product at best on the wood. The rest is atomized and dispersed into the air to land everywhere in your paint area; including your hair, lungs, walls, and the fur of your shop dog or cat.

Finish products that work well with Airbrushes: Minwax varnishes, NitroCellulose Lacquer (the traditional version of Deft,) most enamel paints (thinned) like you get in a hobby store for model cars.

Finish products that I have found will not work well with an airbrush (from about 5 to 7 years ago when I was messed around ): Water borne lacquers, acrylic paints, acrylic clear coats, new water based varnishes and water borne latex paint.

Just above airbrush in the spray gun ladder, there are some spray guns that have a small spay pattern. One, which I am giving as a link only because the graphic is very clear and informative:
http://www.amazon.com/Critter-Spray-.../dp/B00006FRPJ
there are other brands, better prices, and so on. I have not used this small spray gun, and I cannot find any specificaton on the size of the spray pattern.

The key is the cfm specification. The litter critter mentioned above takes about 3 cubic feet per minute of air flow. Check you air compressor and tank specifications.

If you want the high end? Try the best HVLP mini spray gun--
check out Homesteadfinishing.com and search for Walcom STM HVLP spray gun for touch up. About $220.00 just for the Gun.

This is just my opinions, you might want to consider doing your own product testing.

Phil

[jigsue]

Phil
My husband and I spraypaint regularly with acrylic paint (not particularly for scrolled stuff) and find it no problem. The secret, as with any medium that is not specially made for spray guns, is getting the right mix and not letting it dry out. The finish, however, is superb and, if applied in lots of very thin coats, gives a real depth to the colour.

Sue

[GrayBeard Phil]

Sue:

Just to clarify:
Are you using a mini spray gun, or an airbrush?

If airbrush, which kind. Are you using any special needle nozzle?

BTW, did you see where a really lot of airbrushes are being sold to pastry chefs and people who apply instant sun tan and other makeup? (Google: airbrush suntan.)

Phil

[CanadianScroller]

here is an airbrush how to link http://koolgraphics.com/airdave/html...r_how_tos.html

[jigsue]

Hi Phil

In answer to your question, it is definitely an airbrush I use. I started with a Humbrol modellers brush, but now use a Badger 150 airbrush (bottom feed, dual action, internal mix). I don't use any special head assemblies/nozzles, just the ones that came with the brush F - fine, M - medium and L - large: all suitable for watered down acrylics according to the manual ("It can spray reduced artist acrylics, acrylic enamel and lacquers, gouache, fabric colours, inks and dyes, ceramic colours and glazes, water colours and, of course, air-opaque air-brush colours"). have sprayed dyes, enamel and watered down acrylics. I do clean it carefully and after every use, but I have had it for about 6 years now and have never had a problem.

In my album:
http://jigsue.myphotoalbum.com/view_...umName=album09
the following cuttings were airbrushed: cockerels, segmented flowers and fish, maritime segmentations, frogs jigsaw and mirror and clock.

I seal and sand all pieces (largely MDF when I am painting), and apply up to three coats of the watered down acrylic. It gives a depth of finish that is almost impossible to create with a brush or sponge but, as I said, is only worth the set-up time for large flat areas or when I am doing lots of small pieces in the same colour (as for the maritime segmentation pieces).

If ever I got into any scale of production for craft fairs etc, I would certainly get the airbrush out!

Sue

[GrayBeard Phil]

Sue:

Thanks for the update. I learned something.

Phil