Sticky Dots

[Jim8Mad]

I read about several people using the sticky dots that are used for scrapbooking to help hold wood for stack cutting. I picked up some of these and was going to try them for some ornaments. I placed 5 dots on a 5" X 5" piece of BB ply (one in each corner and one in the middle) and stacked them 4 high. I then placed the pattern on the top and headed over to the drill press. While drilling holes I noticed that the boards would tend to shift side to side a bit as I moved the stack for each hole to be drilled. If it was moving that much and I was just sliding them over my drill press table, I could imagine the amount of movement I would get on my scrollsaw. I decided to put painters tape around the edges before going any further. I did notice that it was quite a bit easier to apply the tape with the dots holding the boards together, so there was one benifit.

For those of you who use sticky dots for stack cutting, what are you doing that I am not? Maybe I just need to use more dots next time. Or maybe stacking 4 hight was too much. Any help with this would be great because using dots seems so much easier than taping it all up everytime.

[CanadianScroller]

I use only two or three dots on the outside edges.
Nothing in the middle
On the next board I use dots in the opposite corners.
I hold the wood by the edges when I cut

[William Young (SE BC)]

Jim;
If you have a air compressor , then a 18 guage brad nailer is a small and very worthwhile investment.
I also beleive it is the fastest and easiest method of fastening pieces for stack sawing. I have been doing it that way for about 15 years and never had a minute's problem with the brad nailer.
It's just bang . . bang . . bang . . done . . and over to the drill press and nothing ever moves in the stack when drilling or sawing .
You can do it with this method as fast as I can explain it.
I would be lost without my air compressor and brad nailer . They are two of the most important pieces of equipment in my shop.
W.Y.

[Rolf]

W.Y.

I have been using simple tacks on an anvil in the corners. I will give my brad nailer a shot with some short brads. Do you do it over an anvil? If not what do you do with the back so the brads don't protrude.

[William Young (SE BC)]

I have half a dozen different lenths of 18 guage brad nails and just use the ones that will penetrate into the bottom piece but not all the way through. A slight angle shot will make the brad shorter than a straight down shot.
Also . . adjusting the air pressure can keep the head of it higher for a brad that is a little too long or bury it deeper for one that is too short.
For pieces that are only 1/8" thick and there is a stack of say 6 or 8 pieces, use a brad that will go a little over half way through and then turn the stack over and shoot brads in from that side as well so they overlap in the middle.
W.Y.

[earlinjax]

I don't know what brand you are using, but the ones I use stick like crazy and don't move. I would not put any in the center. These buggers stick.

EarlinJax

[Jim8Mad]

I am using Zots by Therm O Web. The box says they are 'paper thin' and they are the 3/8" diameter medium sized dots. I'll try using them just in the corners on my next stack cut this weekend like you showed Carl.

I picked up a box at Wally-World for a couple bucks so it's nothing lost if they don't work out.

[earlinjax]

The ones I use have the very creative name, "Glue Dots." Got them at Hobby Lobby. I have the 1/2 inch size.

EarlinJax