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Old 04-03-2006, 04:22 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky788scroller
I just prefer titebond II . No it dont dry clear, but a well fitted joint should blend in with the grain for the most part.Im not positive, as I never really noticed, but Im 90% sure its blue lable. For gluing scrolling woods together, any yella glue should be fine, as more then likely the wood will never get wet. The titebond II is water resistant, not waterproof, thee is a diffrence, trust me. Evie, the ship lap is a good idea, the more gluing surface, the stronger your joint will be. I havent ever done that. Maybe you could explain exactly how you set up the tablesaw to get good crisp joints to glue together, I will try it. Dale
Dale this is how we do it. set up the tabale saw that is. first make sure you have a nice straight edg on your board. then , bolt or screw , a piece of wood on your tabale saw fence. about 4" buy ?? long.ply wood or what ever. then push the fence all the way up to your saw blade , set the deapth of your blade, 1/2 the thickness of your board you wont to make a ship lap on. then snub up againsed the wooden fence and cut away. it only has to be as wide as the width of you blade. them glue and clamp it like you would a but joint. i normaly put pipe clamps on mine. I like the pipe clamps , because you can use the pipe to hold your wood and the clamping heads can get real close. also i put at leased one on the opposite side , to help it from bowing. after it sets up. then i use a belt sander to smooth it out. hope this made sence to ya. I love this type of joint, for 1 reason , if ever you do need to fill a joint that does have any spaces. or pulls apart. it wont let any light though and its easyer to fill. it is a very strong joint. your friend Evie
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Old 04-03-2006, 04:47 PM   #12
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Sharon. gosh i didn't know you are in a chair: I don't blame you for staying away from that tabale saw. not only can it cut you. but fling the wood backwords. then you could loose more than your nose picking finguer , but you could lose you nose. now that would be horabale.
I just started using my band saw for resawing. wow is that cool. your right you can get pretty clean cuts. papper thin too. thanks to one of the older post. on the resawing. links. http://www.rd.com/americanwoodworker...s/200008/main/
also I went and looked at the glues yesterday . and the only differants in the reagular tite bond and the #11 is the 11 is water resistant.indoor or outdoor. but the color is the same. the one thing i like about titebond. is it is a fast tack. but I like just old yellow Elmers glue still the best for most things. Aleens have many glues too. but i have never used them on wood yet. anyway good luck. your friend Evie
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Old 04-03-2006, 09:01 PM   #13
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Evie, thank you, you made that crystal clear. You do the complete joint on the TS. I have a router, which also would work I guess. I will try this sometime on a project or three. Thanks. One other question, have you ever did a spline joint? with a spline the thickness of the blades width? Seems to me on some thinner wood that too would work super! Thanks again, dale
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Old 04-03-2006, 10:36 PM   #14
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EVIE-- That link that you have is the link that convenced me to buy a band saw and I can say I am not sorry I did --can't say that for my table saw -lol.
You are so smart on your wood and you sound like you could teach us all a lot about a lot of things,, I can see you are indeed one valueble asset to this forum.
your friend ..
Sharon
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Old 04-04-2006, 08:45 PM   #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lucky788scroller
Evie, thank you, you made that crystal clear. You do the complete joint on the TS. I have a router, which also would work I guess. I will try this sometime on a project or three. Thanks. One other question, have you ever did a spline joint? with a spline the thickness of the blades width? Seems to me on some thinner wood that too would work super! Thanks again, dale
Dale. I was wondering myself , if a router would make the same cut. don't see why not. as long as the wood was clamped down good. maybe sharon could do that. but then a butt joint is good too.
I am not familiar with a spline joint. how does that work? is it like a toung and grove? or is it a grove cut in both pieces of wood with a piece of wood or cain in the middale of the groves??? ps yes i do the whole joint on the tabale saw.

Your so sweet Sharon. you always make my day. I learn from you too. that link was a good one . wish I could remember who posted it first. I sure wont to thank him- her.
Your friend Evie

Last edited by minowevie; 04-04-2006 at 08:50 PM.
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Old 04-04-2006, 08:51 PM   #16
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Quite simply, its a groove in both mating surfaces, with a thin slat (or spline) thats glued into the groove on both pieces and squeezed together with a clamp. Basically, it holds the two surfaces level with each other, and adds to gluing surface. dale
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