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| | #1 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Sherman, Texas
Posts: 284
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Anybody experienced in using "plexiglass"? I can't spell Ackcrillik. I bought some from Sloan's Woodshop and plan to do a couple dragons. Sloan's recommends using a #3 or #5 double skip tooth (DSK) or a crown tooth (CT) blade. They say they have had excellent results with both. They also recommend using duct (duck) tape over the paper that comes on the plastic with your pattern glued to that. Supposedly cures the melting problem that sometimes occurs when the plastic gets warm. Any comments? Thanx, Moon
__________________ Old Mooner |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Brandon, SD
Posts: 674
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Hi Moon, Don't use a blade with double teeth, too many teeth for that kind of cutting. The same with the Crown tooth blade, you don't want to use a blade with reverse teeth. The best blade is the Polar blade, the teeth are a little off-set what helps to eliminate it melting back together. It does not have revers teeth and it a a skip tooth blade. This blade is the best for cutting acrylic, plastic and very good for cutting corian. Some other companies use a different name for this blade but they all promote it for the cutting, you want to do. I don't think that most people use duct tape. They might use the blue painter tape or the 2" clear package tape. Mike M
__________________ Home of the FD Blades |
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| | #3 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: New Jersey
Posts: 743
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I like to use the blue painter's tape and also slow the saw down to at least 3/4 speed of what you are scrolling at now. The great thing about cutting acrylics is there is no grain to effect the blade. In other words it won't want to pull one way or another. A big thing is to let the saw do the cutting as is with cutting wood. Have fun.
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| | #4 |
| Guest
Posts: n/a
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I've used Sloans Acrylic's both mirror and regular. I have found using the Duct tape works just fine. But I like using a reverse blade and keep the speed of the blade lower than normal, this helps from the plastic from melting. I think I've got a picture of a Chinese Red Dragon that I had done in my Gallery. Turned out really nice. |
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| | #5 |
| Moderator CUT IT OUT |
Your right Grizz, the dragon turned out really nice. I agree with the speed. I used to have the re welding problem too, But I just cut out a couple of plexiglass circles for my sons Warhammer game and they came out nice. Pretty smooth. I have heard you can "flash" the edges with an open flame to remove all scratches but I havent tried that.
__________________ CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net." Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21 |
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| | #6 |
| Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: AZ, USA
Posts: 57
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Olson 4ST skip tooth blade worked good for me for that. Dont cut acrylic often but that is what I used. Fred |
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| | #7 |
| Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Regina, Saskatchewan
Posts: 59
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Agree with cutting the speed down when cutting acrylic, and the tape works well for lubrication. I have also cut out plastic with just the paper coating on with good results. A blade with less teeth (#5 or #7) seems to work well too. ________________ Chuck... |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Sherman, Texas
Posts: 284
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Thanks for the free advice folks. I have completed one dragon on solid green 1/8" and am now working on one on solid red 1/8". I know this will, no doubt, irritate those "purists" among you, but I decided to try several things--first, I put blue painter's tape over the "front" paper on the plexiglass, used spray adhesive to adhere my pattern to the blue tape, then applied clear packing tape over the pattern; second, I applied the same clear packing tape to the backside paper on the plexiglass; and third, I used a #2 spiral blade to cut the pattern. It worked really well and did a very fine job on the areas where there are just "lines". The kerf on a spiral is better for lines since it is wider and makes them show up better on the final product. As some of you advised, I slowed the saw down to about 450 and had no trouble whatsoever with melting or buildup on the backside. And, because I left the original brown paper on the plastic, all the tape and stuff came off like a dream afterward. I realize I probably shouldn't have told you about using a spiral blade since when, and if, I post a picture of my finished dragons, there will, no doubt, be twice the criticism about how other blades and techniques would have been better. Maybe so, but I am satisfied and really much more confident about my ability to use plexiglass in future. Once again, thanks for the help. Moon
__________________ Old Mooner |
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| | #9 |
| Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Near Detroit, Michigan
Posts: 1,143
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Moon: I for one support your choice of blades. It was your call to make, and you made the choice. Besides, if you hang out at this site long enough, YOU will become your own worst critic. Phil |
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: May 2005 Location: Charlotte, North Carolina
Posts: 234
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Hey you never know what will work until you try it. Edison said "I have not failed. I've just found 10,000 ways that won't work." We have to try new things in order to progress and succeed. |
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