resaw now or wait till needed?? - Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board

JesseTutterrow · 10-10-2009, 07:27 PM

My shop has collected various scrap wood, mainly oak, that is too small for cabinets. I am thinking of resawing it to 1/4 inch for scroll saw projects.

Should I resaw it now, while I have the time, and store it for 4 to 6 months till needed; or should I wait till needed?

If I resaw it now, will it warp setting on the lumber rack? What if I weigh it down with a piece of 8/4 oak?

Thanks in Advance,

Jesse Tutterrow

HAMMER · 10-10-2009, 07:42 PM

If you are planning any intarsia scrollsawing you might want to wait as often you will need different thicknesses to get different highs in the pattern for effect....

As for warping I am not knowledgable in that area but would like to hear the answer to that one....

Max · 10-10-2009, 08:36 PM

Jesse, not sure about oak, but I resawed some cherry to 1/4" over a year ago, edge glued the pieces, and still haven't used it. It's still just as flat as it was when I cut it. I guess if it's properly dried, it should be OK.

tomsteve · 10-11-2009, 03:50 AM

some of it wood depend on the moisture content. iffen the m.c. is rather high, it could cup. the way it was cut( flat sawn, rift sawn, or quarter sawn) will make a difference, too. might wanna try a piece and see how it reacts.

Bill Wilson · 10-11-2009, 10:11 PM

Generally it is a good practice to use your lumber as soon after milling as possible. However, under the right conditions, I think you will be fine. You can resaw it and let it set until you need it as long as it is dry now and remains dry during the wait period. Whenever I resaw, I usually try to make some extra, so I build up a little inventory of thin stock to have for a future project. Generally I don't have a problem with warping & cupping. If it cups, it was probably going to do it anyway, whether I used it right away or let it set for 6 months.

georgewoodie · 10-11-2009, 10:30 PM

Jesstutterow:

I have seen a lot of [thin] warped material in lumber stores, so I would cut as needed. Thicker material too. I prefer to buy rough as much as I can. After cutting material that is asembled should warp or distorte less than shelved product.

Woodie

north wood clocks · 10-12-2009, 05:33 AM

Hello Jesse
What type of projects are you planning to do?
I do like having some inventory on hand for small projects that can pop up unexpectedly. But many projects can require several different thicknesses,(One size does not fit all?) When you resaw boards, they open up like a book, the grain pattern fits together for edge gluing to make wider boards. One side the grain usually widens and the other side the grain pattern comes together. You will lose that unique quality if you cannot keep the matched boards together. Another thing if you have some kind of drum sander leave your boards on the thick side and do your final sanding just before you cut your project. Freshly sanded boards stain better and are free of dings that happen in storage. If you want to edge glue them, with water base glues, leave them set up for at least 24 hours, then sand them to thickness. The reason for that is that the water base glues raise the grain and cause swelling. If you sand and use them too soon, there may be a slight cavity where the glue seam has shrunk. If you want to do a large project (like the big fretwork clocks) You may want to resaw one board of each species to help keep stain and finish uniform throughout the project.

Hope you have fun, whatever sawdust you make.
Norman

sawdustus · 10-12-2009, 12:17 PM

Just my two cents. Resaw now and store as you would any new boards, stacked and stickered.
I absolutely agree with tomsteve that the moisture content is crucial. Since you have a cabinet shop, you are probably dealing with moisture stable wood already and resawing will probably not produce bowing or cupping.
Like Norman said, cut it a bit thicker than your final needs (resawing leaves prominent saw marks), keep the bookmarked boards in order for special projects, and freshly sanded wood stains better than the old stuff which has oxidized on the surface. I would also cut several thicknesses, perhaps 1/8. 1/4, and 3/8 for various scroll projects.
The only way that properly dried wood will warp after resawing is if there are tensions in the board from its growth habit. By that I mean if the tree grew on a hillside or there was an almost constant wind direction acting on the tree, one half of the trunk will be under compression and the other half will be under tension. This generally results in bowing or twisting when the trunk is milled up. I usually reject those boards originally, but they can be used with with careful milling. However, resawing can rerelease those forces. If your boards had any twisting or bowing before you used them they will show it again with resawing.

george

Mr C · 11-15-2009, 08:11 AM

Reading about the resawing problem (warps etc) in everyone's post has been quite an education for me. I've had the same problem and now I at least know why and some things I can do that will help me. I'm a junior member and I have a problem after resawing some very nice Common Alder
down to 3/4. After scroll sawing about half of my project, I noticed a couple large bug holes inside the wood where the scroll saw had cut. No holes on the outside of the board could be seen? Resawing missed the holes completely. This alder wood was stored for approx. 30years before I got it. Question: No insects were found in the holes, just dry dusty sawdust. Should a person gamble on no more bugs. Should a person for a finish, use an oil base finish that would penetrate and seal the wood. These bored holes are about 3/16th of an inch dia. What bug made them I could only guess. First time in ten years of scrolling that I have run into this kind of problem. Maybe I've just been lucky. Would appreciate any advice you folks could throw my way. Thank you all. MrC junior member

georgewoodie · 11-15-2009, 04:41 PM

JesseTutterrow:

My general rule is to use the smallest pieces of wood first. I never know what I will want to do next with any material on hand. If I cut now to use later, I might wish that I had some pieces just a bit larger, so I do not cut until needed.

I would follow the same procedure for resaw. I try to do as many tasks as possible without a change of set up, so while I have been tempted to resaw with that special blade on my saw, I hold off.

That has worked well for me in the past.

Woodie

10-10-2009, 07:27 PM	#1
JesseTutterrow Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 2	resaw now or wait till needed?? My shop has collected various scrap wood, mainly oak, that is too small for cabinets. I am thinking of resawing it to 1/4 inch for scroll saw projects. Should I resaw it now, while I have the time, and store it for 4 to 6 months till needed; or should I wait till needed? If I resaw it now, will it warp setting on the lumber rack? What if I weigh it down with a piece of 8/4 oak? Thanks in Advance, Jesse Tutterrow

10-10-2009, 08:36 PM	#3
Max Dismembered Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Independence, Ky Posts: 383	Jesse, not sure about oak, but I resawed some cherry to 1/4" over a year ago, edge glued the pieces, and still haven't used it. It's still just as flat as it was when I cut it. I guess if it's properly dried, it should be OK. __________________ Dan ___________________________________ "Whenever I feel blue, I start breathing again." --L. Frank Baum, author of "The Wonderful Wizard of Oz"

10-11-2009, 10:11 PM	#5
Bill Wilson Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Butler, PA Posts: 590	Generally it is a good practice to use your lumber as soon after milling as possible. However, under the right conditions, I think you will be fine. You can resaw it and let it set until you need it as long as it is dry now and remains dry during the wait period. Whenever I resaw, I usually try to make some extra, so I build up a little inventory of thin stock to have for a future project. Generally I don't have a problem with warping & cupping. If it cups, it was probably going to do it anyway, whether I used it right away or let it set for 6 months. __________________ "I'm a white male, aged 18 to 49. Everyone listens to me! No matter how dumb my suggestions are."

10-12-2009, 12:17 PM	#8
sawdustus Senior Member Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: New Jersey Posts: 1,975	Just my two cents. Resaw now and store as you would any new boards, stacked and stickered. I absolutely agree with tomsteve that the moisture content is crucial. Since you have a cabinet shop, you are probably dealing with moisture stable wood already and resawing will probably not produce bowing or cupping. Like Norman said, cut it a bit thicker than your final needs (resawing leaves prominent saw marks), keep the bookmarked boards in order for special projects, and freshly sanded wood stains better than the old stuff which has oxidized on the surface. I would also cut several thicknesses, perhaps 1/8. 1/4, and 3/8 for various scroll projects. The only way that properly dried wood will warp after resawing is if there are tensions in the board from its growth habit. By that I mean if the tree grew on a hillside or there was an almost constant wind direction acting on the tree, one half of the trunk will be under compression and the other half will be under tension. This generally results in bowing or twisting when the trunk is milled up. I usually reject those boards originally, but they can be used with with careful milling. However, resawing can rerelease those forces. If your boards had any twisting or bowing before you used them they will show it again with resawing. george __________________ A day without sawdust is a day without sunshine. George delta 650, hawk G426

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10-10-2009, 07:42 PM	#2
HAMMER Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2008 Location: KATY, TX. (WEST HOUSTON) Posts: 374	If you are planning any intarsia scrollsawing you might want to wait as often you will need different thicknesses to get different highs in the pattern for effect.... As for warping I am not knowledgable in that area but would like to hear the answer to that one....

10-11-2009, 03:50 AM	#4
tomsteve Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2007 Posts: 407	some of it wood depend on the moisture content. iffen the m.c. is rather high, it could cup. the way it was cut( flat sawn, rift sawn, or quarter sawn) will make a difference, too. might wanna try a piece and see how it reacts.

10-11-2009, 10:30 PM	#6
georgewoodie Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 123	Jesstutterow: I have seen a lot of [thin] warped material in lumber stores, so I would cut as needed. Thicker material too. I prefer to buy rough as much as I can. After cutting material that is asembled should warp or distorte less than shelved product. Woodie

10-12-2009, 05:33 AM	#7
north wood clocks Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Saskatchewan Canada Posts: 108	Hello Jesse What type of projects are you planning to do? I do like having some inventory on hand for small projects that can pop up unexpectedly. But many projects can require several different thicknesses,(One size does not fit all?) When you resaw boards, they open up like a book, the grain pattern fits together for edge gluing to make wider boards. One side the grain usually widens and the other side the grain pattern comes together. You will lose that unique quality if you cannot keep the matched boards together. Another thing if you have some kind of drum sander leave your boards on the thick side and do your final sanding just before you cut your project. Freshly sanded boards stain better and are free of dings that happen in storage. If you want to edge glue them, with water base glues, leave them set up for at least 24 hours, then sand them to thickness. The reason for that is that the water base glues raise the grain and cause swelling. If you sand and use them too soon, there may be a slight cavity where the glue seam has shrunk. If you want to do a large project (like the big fretwork clocks) You may want to resaw one board of each species to help keep stain and finish uniform throughout the project. Hope you have fun, whatever sawdust you make. Norman

11-15-2009, 08:11 AM	#9
Mr C Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2009 Posts: 5	Reading about the resawing problem (warps etc) in everyone's post has been quite an education for me. I've had the same problem and now I at least know why and some things I can do that will help me. I'm a junior member and I have a problem after resawing some very nice Common Alder down to 3/4. After scroll sawing about half of my project, I noticed a couple large bug holes inside the wood where the scroll saw had cut. No holes on the outside of the board could be seen? Resawing missed the holes completely. This alder wood was stored for approx. 30years before I got it. Question: No insects were found in the holes, just dry dusty sawdust. Should a person gamble on no more bugs. Should a person for a finish, use an oil base finish that would penetrate and seal the wood. These bored holes are about 3/16th of an inch dia. What bug made them I could only guess. First time in ten years of scrolling that I have run into this kind of problem. Maybe I've just been lucky. Would appreciate any advice you folks could throw my way. Thank you all. MrC junior member

11-15-2009, 04:41 PM	#10
georgewoodie Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 123	JesseTutterrow: My general rule is to use the smallest pieces of wood first. I never know what I will want to do next with any material on hand. If I cut now to use later, I might wish that I had some pieces just a bit larger, so I do not cut until needed. I would follow the same procedure for resaw. I try to do as many tasks as possible without a change of set up, so while I have been tempted to resaw with that special blade on my saw, I hold off. That has worked well for me in the past. Woodie