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Old 08-09-2009, 05:29 PM   #1
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Default Cutting 1/8" Aluminum?

Good Morning,

Does anyone have experience cutting 1/8" thick soft alloy aluminum?

I have a project that calls for some pieces of it in addition to wood and find that a sabre saw creates too much vibration and bends the pieces.

Many Thanks!


Pete
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Old 08-09-2009, 05:41 PM   #2
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That's pretty thick, and I don't have any experience in cutting it.

I would think if you were to try it you would need to tilt your table and try lubricating the blade...I'm suggesting tilting the table toward you by lifting the rear of the saw so you don't get anything wet except the table and blade...

I'm probably all wet though...
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Old 08-09-2009, 07:37 PM   #3
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I would slow the speed on the saw way down and go VERY slowly. It will heat up quite a bit. I've done it in the past with a jig saw with a fine tooth blade. The material needs to be very well supported and once again you have to be aware of the heat build-up. A thin (1/4" or so) scrap wood backer attached to the aluminum with clamps or double-sided tape helps as well.
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Old 08-09-2009, 07:52 PM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wood-n-things View Post
and try lubricating the blade...
What is a good way to lube the blade without causing trouble elsewhere (rust, short circuits, etc.)? Tilting the table's a good start, but is it sufficient?

I found a source for diamond blades and am thinking of trying to cut glass, not metal, so would need to keep things rather wet.

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Old 08-09-2009, 08:45 PM   #5
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I'm going to have to defer to someone more knowledgeable than I...I would not want to steer you wrong.
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Old 08-10-2009, 12:07 AM   #6
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I have never cut any mettles. mmm is aluminum mettle?? no matter. I know on my saw,( Hegner) they do make a reservoir to go on it. but I don't have one. maybe you could check that out. your friend Evie
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Old 08-10-2009, 05:17 AM   #7
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Well, I've cut coins with the scrollsaw. They're not aluminum, but I'd think they were actually harder.

The biggest problem with metal is heat. You won't be able to handle the metal after a short time and will need to have a jig.

There are metal-cutting blades you can get (Jewlers blades from Olson), and they work very well, but you can get by with regular blades if you want. I've used 2/0, 3, and 5 in both spiral and scroll-reverse successfully. The smaller blades snapped pretty easily, but I think that's more because they're small blades than the metal cutting. Some snapped when I was tensioning them if I didn't remember not to go all the way.

I'd suggest that you just grab some scrap and give it a shot. Don't go too fast and figure out how you're going to deal with the heat.
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:21 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the replies! I will let everyone know how it works out

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Old 08-10-2009, 06:44 PM   #9
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As for lubrication... I would think an oil would be best.

Pete,
Be sure to give your saw a good cleaning after you're done cutting the aluminum. I would guess that the little chips of metal let behind would get into the wrong places on your saw and may wear on parts, and hurting your saw.
Just a thought....
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Old 08-10-2009, 06:50 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Arcy View Post
What is a good way to lube the blade without causing trouble elsewhere (rust, short circuits, etc.)? Tilting the table's a good start, but is it sufficient?

I found a source for diamond blades and am thinking of trying to cut glass, not metal, so would need to keep things rather wet.

--Rob
Hi Rob - For aluminum, kerosene is the suggested lubricant. No rust either.
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