Scrolling With Teak

[Scrolling Days]

I just purchased some Teak plywood which I'd like to try out on one of my puzzles.

I have never scrolled with Teak before, and since it is such a naturally oiley wood to the touch, has anyone found it difficult to work with? My main concern is the effect of the Teak oil on my scrolling table. Will this discolor it or affect it's friction or stain future projects? Does it clean off easily?

These particular boards are so oiley that wiping them gntly with a white paper towel turns the towel tan.

[sawdustus]

Shawn, to prevent the teak oil from getting on your scrolling table, I would tape a thin sheet of acetate or other type of plastic sheet to the top of the table. It won't affect the cutting but will keep the oil off the table. According to finishing guru Bob Flexner, teak oil will inhibit most finishes from curing properly. Before finishing a teak piece, wipe it down with naphtha, acetone or lacquer thinner. The same applies to rosewood, cocobolo and ebony and most other oily woods.

george

[Mick Walker]

Shawn, a good coat of wax on your saw table before you cut the teak should work. then remove the wax with MS and rewax before using it again. Just my 2¢ worth.

[CanadianScroller]

I have cut teak before I found the blade is self lubricating as it slices through the wood. I did find that the sawdus does tend to stick to everything because of the oil content.
It was a joy to cut and did not require any sandig once I had cut out the project.
I didnt have any issues with it staining the saw.

[Scrolling Days]

Thanks for the input, guys!

I'm becoming tentative about using the Teak for some of my jigsaw puzzles, however. It's just so oiley, I'm wondering if the oil will come off on the print side of my puzzle pieces when they are stored jumbled in the box.

The wood is so beautiful, though, that I still have to scroll something from it.

[unixpro]

I've done things with Teak, but never a puzzle. They make beautiful clocks and desk accessories. The oil, in my case, did reduce somewhat over time. I don't think I ever did apply any finish. I have one weather instrument I made from Teak that's been sitting on the mantle for at least 4 years and is still waxy when I touch it.

I just wish it weren't so darned expensive.

[Haggard3230]

I have cut a few projects with 3/8" teak, and the same as Carl said, cuts just fine.

[cdrfred]

I have never used teak plywood - just solid wood.

To eliminate the "oil" while working, just liberally wipe the piece with actone or laquer thinner. You will have several hours before the oily feel bothers you again.

Although the blade will be self-lubing, the teak is a gritty wood and will gradually dull the blade. When sawing teak on a tale saw I often see a spark when the blade hits a piece of grit.

teak can be finished with most any oil based finish ( no water based finish). Immediately prior to finishing, give the teak a good wiping with actone. If you have many intricate details, it might be a problem removing the oil in crevices prior to applying the finish. If you dont get rid of the surface oil, the finish will remain tacky.

[tony coleman]

shawn,
i cut a cross out of solid teakand found it had no affect too my saw table but it did dull the edge on my blades.i think i went through 8 blades too finish the project.the wood i was cutting was a little over 1/2 inch thick.other than this its a nice wood too cut,although i have never cut the plywood variety.

[handibunny]

I've made bowls from teak, and had no problem either gluing the rings or in finishing the bowls with shellac. (The bowl I'm holding in my signature photo uses teak for the lamination.) I spoke with someone from a large lumberyard, and he said that teak has a high silica content, which is what makes it so good for decking for boats, and bad for blades. I did not need to wipe the wood, but maybe some pieces of teak are oilier than others.