3/4 wood

[lolwood]

I'm pretty new at scrolling but I volunteered to do a little work for a local group. They want some dragons cut. OK, the pattern is not very difficult but then I was told they wanted 3/4" thick dragons. I've been trying but can't seem to find the right blade. I'm using pine and some of the cuts are going to be tight. What blade(s) will work well in 3/4" material and still give me a tight turning radius?

[lucky788scroller]

in 3/4 thick pine, Id use a FD-TC #3 .I would suggest though that you go with something other than pine, as its really not a very durable wood, and the pitch (sap) in the pine tends to cause blades to heat up prematurely.
Oh, welcome aboard here by the way, and FD-TC blades are available from mikesworkshop.com .

[Larrysch]

I cut a lot of 3/4" material - and use about every blade that I have. I just go slow, and do a lot of backing out of corners that need a point.Lucky was right when he said pine has pitch or at least something that that sure sticks to everything. I just cut some bowl - 2" thick with my scroll saw - at a 12 degree angle - 12 inch bowls - went with a fast blade speed but move forward very slow. Took time, but the blade cut very well and I had no problem. The blade was a spiral blade.

[Judy Simpson]

Hi,I cut all hardwood 1/2 to 1 in. thick. I use nothing but precision ground tooth blades,5's , 7's , and 9's. For me nothing cuts better or last longer. Poplar is a good inexpensive hardwood for scrolling

[marshall]

I agree with most on this also go to Mikes work shop for you flying Dutchman blades , I would use a number 3,5, and up and also the pine may cause you some problem too , if not at first it will !! If for some reason you order some blades from Mike's , he too can guide you in the right way . Mike has been very helpful in the past to me !! Good Luck Marshall

[handibunny]

I love FD blades, and would suggest the new scroll reverse, which Mike's workshop has. Poplar and #7 should be good. I've cut very involved thick puzzles with a blade as large as #9, which may be needed if you use a hard wood like oak. If you use poplar, avoid pieces with pronounced green patches--they don't look great unless they fit in with the design.

Carole

[Forester21]

I cut pine a lot, and don't have any problems with sap. Must be I can get better pine that the guys You can usually see the sappy pine - look at the tight knots and you've got sappy areas usually.

Anyway - I would use a # 5 on 3/4" wood. When I cut 2 layers of 3/4" I've moved up to a #7. But the best thing to do is to use a scrap piece of wood to check how your blade of choice will cut. If you don't like it, change your choice!