Oak, how do I fill the pores?

[oldjohnevans]

I am cutting jigsaw puzzles with 2 ply wooden panels that I make myself. Maple came out very smooth but oak had deep longitudinal grain that I could not remove with sanding. Is there some way to fill the pores so that it will sand smoothly and still accept aniline dye stains?

[JohnB]

John,
There is a way that we used to use when I was cabinet making many years ago.
It's a bit of a DIY mixture, however there may be a commercial product available now days.

We used mix Whiting, Linseed oil, and pigment. Then using a piece of hessian bag, rub the mixture into the grain. That would fill up the pores and give a mirror finish when French Polished.

I would hazard a guess, that something like a water based plaster putty, or even plaster, mixed with the dye and or a pigment to match the timber would work much the same. Just rub it in good with a course cloth, wipe of a much as possible and sand when dry.

[sawdustus]

John, there are commercial fillers you can use. They are sometimes called sanding sealers but they tend to make the final finish weaker. You can also use the final finish itself to fill the pores but it is a tedious process.

There are also commercial paste wood fillers made essentially the same way that JohnB used to make his. They can be colored by the factory or by you. This is a very brief summary of the technique for using them. Thin them down with the appropriate solvent to a thick cream consistancy and brush them onto the oak, when dry to a dull sheen, wipe across the grain with a burlap rag followed by a clean cloth. Sand lightly when completely dry.

What I suggest is that you try to get hold of a copy of Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner. He is an expert in this field. Pages 121-129 are about filling pores in wood.

Hope this all helps. Sawdustus

[Old Forester]

John, I've used a lot of red oak for furniture (hobby only) and have found that the latex filler used by some of the flooring people works good for me. It dries quickly, sands easily and takes stain well. You may be able to get a sample from a flooring installer to try for your particular use. I've only seen it sold in quarts and that goes a long way.
Just another option that might work for you. Bob

[workin for wood]

Google, pore filler. Lots of good products. Otherwise, finish, then sand all finish off then finish, then sand all finish off over and over until it's all level on the surface.

[oldjohnevans]

There are also commercial paste wood fillers made essentially the same way that JohnB used to make his. They can be colored by the factory or by you. This is a very brief summary of the technique for using them. Thin them down with the appropriate solvent to a thick cream consistancy and brush them onto the oak, when dry to a dull sheen, wipe across the grain with a burlap rag followed by a clean cloth. Sand lightly when completely dry.

Sawdustus[/quote]

The paragraph above was a reply to my inquiry about filling pores in oak.
I am using LaPage interior tinted wood filler (light oak). Does anyone know what the appropriate thinning solvent is?

Oldjohnevans

[Wood Dog]

If this is the stuff it states it is water based, so I would guess you could thin it with water.
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[sgimbel]

When I was building cigar humidors I used silica sand mixed with stain to the point it was just wet and ran it with the grain with a putty knife. Just did it on oak and walnut but it gave smooth wood just like a baby's bottom. Take as much as you can off with the putty knife and when dry a very light sanding with real fine sandpaper 400 grit min and preferable 800 or 1200 grit.