Sawdust and Glue as Wood Filler

[Bob in Whitby]

I am working at making an inlay box similier to that found in SSWC issue 24. I have used poplar for the top and Chakte-Kok (a reddish hardwood) for the leaves. This is my first inlay project. So far I am very pleased with the outcome....However have a question.

When I inlayed the leaves I drilled a small starter hole and then with all of the "sharp" turns for the leaves I ended up with a few very small "see thru" places between the hardwood and poplar. I used a #5 blade at 3 degrees slant. I would like to fill in these small "see thrus" with poplar dust and glue. I'm afraid a common wood filler will show. Even if I do not fill these it still looks OK but not quite to my level of "perfection".

Has anyone used dust / glue combo to fill small holes? If so what type of glue do you use so that will not show. Do I water it down or just use the glue straight from the bottle. I have both Lepages White Glue and Carpenter Glue (yellow) on hand.

Thanks in advance for any help or direction you can provide.

Cheers
Bob

[Forester21]

Hi Bob -
What I do when I am cutting inlay, is to take regular white glue (school glue) and press the glue into the crack or space. Then sand the face of the item. The sawdust from the sanding gets sucked into the crack and mixes with the glue.
Theresa

[Steviegwood]

Hi Bob, I have done the sawdust and glue for filler also. I found a moulding & trim glue by Titebond that works great for that purpose, at least in my experiences. I would suggest creating the same need in a scrap piece and giving it a try. The glue itself dries clear and all you see is the wood. Hope this helps. Steve

[PeteB]

I don't have the small-hole issue, but have often used sawdust mixed very lightly with carpenter's glue to repair bottom tear-out, plywood voids, and other things and it works very well. The drier the mix, the better the result.

Home-made filler is superior to the packaged stuff in all respects except that it's less convenient, IMO.

[workin for wood]

yep yep, it's all good advice. I personally put the appropriate sawdust into the hole and work it in with my finger. Then I drip some thin CA glue on top. Let it sit or use accelorator, then sand it flush.

[workin for wood]

I should actually add this tip, since I just remembered. If you use glue, wood glue or CA glue and sawdust as a filler, you won't be able to stain it. The CA won't stain at all, the wood glue will stain a bit, but won't match. I think this isn't a problem for you since it looks like you are going to use a natural finish, but thought I best throw out that reminder.

[Chase]

Just wanted to get in the loop for future posts on this subject and find out--Jeff, what is CA glue?

Chase

[CanadianScroller]

I use sawdust and clear varathane, the same stuff I finish it with, that way it doens show.

[jigsue]

Well, we all seem to be singing from the same sheet, here. I use PVA (poly vinyl acetate) woodworking glue (white and dries clear. Mix a little up with lots of dust and put it in the hole with the end of an old blade. (I have also been known to syringe it in) If your intarsia has a backing, you will not be able to see the holes anyway - my first ever intarsia piece was free standing - hence the syringe!

Oh by the way, I kept seeing you all mention Aleene's Tacky glue, so I bought some. It is just PVA, but expensive. I buy the same stuff in 5 gallon containers.

Sue

[workin for wood]

hmmm, I know this is wrong. CA is cryonositi acetate , lol. Just type CA glue into your google, you'll find it. Comes in several viscosities. Everyone must have at least a bottle of thin CA. Fixes anything, like a hairling crack in wood, or you break a tiny piece off, just a drop and you are good to go. Otherwise, known as super glue. Cheaper to buy a two ounce bottle than several tubes.