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Old 01-24-2008, 12:42 AM   #1
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Default Wood Joints

Hi all. I am trying to make some good wood joints. butt joints. or edge joints. or even ,miter or even facejoining? is there a way to cut the wood. along the grain. or ?? that I just can't get. do I join it in the same grain. or I notice the ends are a cup grain. one derection and the other is the other way. how do I glue it up. HELP. thanks. does this make a differance in the warping?? or not. thanks . your friend Evie
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Old 01-24-2008, 04:28 AM   #2
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picture frames, maybe??? well, keep it simple and it'll get easy. not quite understanding all the ?'s, but here goes something...... miter joints are made when 2 pieces of wood meet at different angles. they usually have end grain that buts into each other. for the best bond, i like to dillute a little wood glue with water and brush it on both pieces. this soaks into the end grain pretty quick. then i add full- strength wood glue to one side, but the pieces up, clamp, and let dry. a butt joint is when 1 piece but into another at a 90 degree angle. this needs some reinforcement as glue alone really isnt that strong for it. pocket screws, biscuits, dowels, or the strongest, mortise and tennon. now i'm not really sure what ya mean by iffen theres a way to cut the wood, but i'm sure these people will be able to add more. hope yer havin fun makin dust!!!
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Old 01-24-2008, 04:43 AM   #3
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tom that make sence. I guess the one quistion I would like to know more is. when I am butt joining. or maybe I am saying it roung , maybe it is edge joining. I have seen some things on the end of the boards. where the grain is cupted up. and then they are cuped down. and glue it opposit. does this make sence. and this is suposed to help from warping. ???? I ask this becouse I always have problems with warping. when I mill a piece of wood. and try to edge join it. it warps. no matter which thickness. it cups. bows, warps. and also every thing else it can do. does anyone know what the heck I am talking about. and would you please tell me. ark ark. there just has to be a better way to join wood. thanks Evie
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Old 01-24-2008, 04:51 AM   #4
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Evie
Yes when edge gluing the growth rings should be
up on one board then down on the next and so on,
this helps prevent warping. Hope this is what you mean.
BTW nice to see you on the board.
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Old 01-24-2008, 05:00 AM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Plaquerd
Evie
Yes when edge gluing the growth rings should be
up on one board then down on the next and so on,
this helps prevent warping. Hope this is what you mean.
BTW nice to see you on the board.
exsacly. the growth rings. thats it. dang thanks. Ok so when I edge glue. these rings on the ends should be one up. and one down. and so on??? all the way across. big quistion. Why. also. I have heard to face join its the same thing. to make a board thicker, buy glueing. mmm sometimes it is hard to tell??sometimes the end of the bords just look like dots. would this have anything to do with the way my blade runs. say lilke in oak? thanks Evie. I know differant subject.
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Old 01-24-2008, 05:36 AM   #6
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hello - this might help picture a circle, with smaller circles inside. viola a tree. if you cut that in half. now you have two half circles. if you cut that half in half now you have 1/4 peices. if you place the thick side against a gate and cut you now have what's called quartersawn lumber. the grain basically runs up and down if you look at the edge grain. this is a very dimensionally stable peice of wood that tends not to cup. if you took the whole log and placed it against the gate and cut this is called plain sliced. you get the little smiles or frowns in the end grain these wiil cup. by using quarter sawn lumber this resists cupping, a biscut joiner, or slot cutter run thru both peices will further stabilize the wood and add additional glueing surface. this can be used with butt joints or miters. trying to rip(cutting with the grain) with a scroll saw for an acceptable glue joint is just about impossible. these cuts are best done on a table saw, or with the aid of a jointer. cross cuts and miters are best done with a miter box doug
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Old 01-24-2008, 03:10 PM   #7
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hope yer gettin some answers here. one thing on the edge jointing( now i get it!! i do that quite often building cabinets and tables and stuff), right on the money about alternating grain direction. also thought: is the material dry?? iffen the moisture content isn't down to like 8 pct., it could cup when taken into a dry atmosphere( like my house in the winter). wood from building supply stores is usually up in the 10-15 pct. moisture content area, as the wood is usually intended for home construction. are ya workin with rough sawn. if so, one face should be ran across a jointer before planing. planing makes 2 parallel surfaces and the planer will squeeze a cup flat, causing the cup to stay in the board. also, iffen you are using r.s. lumber, plane off material from both sides. this'll help keep the wood stable. hope yer havin fun makin dust!!!!!
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Old 01-25-2008, 10:58 PM   #8
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Thanks for all the help. and yes it all makes sence. this is something I realy needed to learn. I thought you could just join wood which ever way. dang. I am in bussness now. maybe I wont have so much warping, thanks. your friend Evie
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Old 01-26-2008, 01:25 AM   #9
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Edge joining? I am assuming you are edge joining thin scrolling stock, like 1/4th inch thick? Just a good simple edge join is usually as strong as the wood itself. You could also ship-lap them with a rabbet for more gluing surface if you feel it necessary. Hopefully I am helping out, if not, I'm sorry. Dale
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