Photo frame thickness/bending

[fretman88]

Hello, I'm about to make a standing photo frame which holds multiple pictures. This requires a piece of 14 by 14 inch walnut. The pattern i'm following says nothing about how thick to make the frame. What would be the suggested thickness for such a project and do i need to be concerned about the wood bending over time due to its size? Can i use a single sheet of walnut or should i glue up boards? Thank you.

[JohnB]

G'day Fretman,
I don't know the style of your frame??. If it is a single piece I wouldn't go any thinner than 3/8". I make mine out of 19mm 3/4" because I bevel cut a surround for the photo and also hinge some.
If the frame is layered I think you could go quite a bit thinner as the build up of layers will add strength.
I'm just speculating here.
As for a single or edge jointed boards......... Edge jointing will limit any cupping and at 14" I'd definitely join at least 2 boards. Just pick your timber and no one will ever know.

Hope this gives you a starting point.

Others on the group will know a lot more about the characteristics of Walnut than I do so will probably be able offer a more informed opinion.

[knothead]

I would defiantly make it out of separate pieces. Miter your corners and biscuit join them if the pieces are wide enough for extra strength. I like 3/4" like John. It leaves lots of room for a deep rabbit for glass, pictures, and backing.

Tom

[GrayBeard Phil]

Originally Posted by fretman88

.... This requires a piece of 14 by 14 inch walnut. ... do i need to be concerned about the wood bending over time due to its size? Can i use a single sheet of walnut or should i glue up boards?

(With tongue planted in my cheek,)
Do you already have in mind where you are going to buy a solid piece of 14 inch wide WALNUT??? Dem Days 're 'bout 130 years ago!! Even 12 inch wide board be hard to come by now days, and just a bit hard on the wallet.

(back to normal)
I would think that a properly kiln dried walnut, a glue up of three boards, jointed edges and then surfaced planned, should not cup over time due to changes in humidity.

But from the context of your post, I presume you are making a picture frame 14" x 14" square. That is 4 sides of solid wood joined at the corners. Making a frame about an empty center. You did not mean to imply you were going to take a $$$$ piece of walnut and cut out the center so there were no joined corners.

Tom and JohnB have given you good advise on the jointing of the sides to make a frame from the 4 pieces of walnut.

Phil

[fretman88]

I'm sorry guys ,i probably did a lousy job describing this project. The pattern comes from Patric Spielmans' book Victorian Scroll Saw Patterns pg. 115. This pattern calls for a single piece of wood approx 14 inches square. In the center is a spot for the main photo {roughly3.5 in by 3 in.}Then surrounding the center picture are eight cut out circles roughly 2 and 1/4 in.diameter for other photos .Now, surrounding each circle are multiple intricate thin floral type cut outs. The outer edge of the frame is jagged like a flower. It would most likely hang on a wall. I would like to use walnut of which i have plenty, but its 12 in wide by 1 in thick. Given the small intricate cut outs , would gluing up some boards be a problem? Would 2 boards be adequate or more? Given the above info how thick would you recommend this wall hanging to be? Im worried about warping in the future. I do have an 8 inch jointer and 15 inch planer. The walnut i have is at least 30 years old and has come out gorgeous in past projects. This project certainly looks doable but just a little technical expertise would be greatly appreciated. Everyone has been a tremendous help in the past . Thank you.

[GrayBeard Phil]

Fretman88:

I don't have that book. I have the "Classic Fretwork Scroll Saw Patters" book by Patrick Spielman and James Reidle published in 1991.

In the Book I have, is a Victorian style desk or mantel picture frame that sounds similar to yours, but only a Main picture and one small oval frame on each side.

From my looking at it, I would think a maximum 1/2 inch walnut, or walnut plywood would be OK. For a wall hanging, I wouldn't go to 1-by thick (3/4 inch) wood.

Most of Patrick Spielman designs for Victorian styled fretwork, almost always has an line of symmetry about a Central axis in the middle. I am sure your pattern has a line of symmetry also. Join two boards, and be very careful to align the symmetrical axis of the pattern on the glue joint. I don't know your pattern, but it just might have more than a single axis of vertical symmetry. A glue line at each axis of symmetry. I am almost sure that Patrick would use only a single line of symmetry. With a single line of symmetry, use only two boards.

Resawn walnut glued up to a 'book-matched' symmetry would of course be best looking. The problem is resawing 1-By stock and surface planning is that it will not leave two 3/8 inch thick boards because of kerf of bandsaw blade and waste from planning. More like two boards of 1/4 inch thick which would be too thin.

Your stock sounds like it would not warp over time. I could be wrong, but only time will tell.

Your description sounds like a typical Spielman fretwork pattern which will keep you busy for several days. Good luck.

Phil

[Mick Walker]

fretman88, if this frame will be inside and you apply a nice finish to all of it you would not have to worry about any warping.

[fretman88]

Thanks Phil, Mick, and everyone for your advice. Mick, would a good coat of tongue oil be sufficient? This really brings out the richness in walnut. JB

[Mick Walker]

JB, I wouldn't use pure tung oil as it takes forever to dry. There are several tung oil finishes on the market that contain little or no tung oil. I use Formby's tung oil finish for my cuttings, it is a wipe on product and you have to apply several coats to get a nice finish. Comes in gloss or satin. Minwax poly is another that I use a lot, available in wipe on, brush on, or rattle can spray.

[workin for wood]

If you do re-glue, which is best for solid stock anyhow, it's best each stick be under 2.5" wide. Alternate the grains directions on every piece, basically just by looking at the ends of the boards. You see a smile or a frown...first piece smiles, next one should frown, next one should smile and so on. This cancels out warpage. I don't really follow what you are doing, don't have the book or plans, but that's how you make a 14x14 piece from solid wood.