Welcome to Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board, an online scroll saw forum community where you can join thousands of scrollers from around the world discussing all things related to Scrolling. To gain full access to the message board you must register for a free account.
As a registered member you will be able to:
* Browse over 200,000 posts.
If you have any problems with the registration process or your account login, please contact the Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Support Team.
| ||LinkBack||Thread Tools||Display Modes|
|12-02-2013, 06:01 PM||#1|
Join Date: Nov 2013
Location: Gulf Coast of Texas
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
New here and need help on blades
Hello, I am new to this forum and I just ordered a Excalibur 21, and need advise on which blades I need.
Presently I work on Chippendale mirrors and cutting out whirligigs. Most wood is 1/4 to 1/2 inch thick. I have been using a Porter-Cable and a Dremal saws and have been using pin end blades. Any advise on size and type of blades would be appreciated. Have a good day Jim_n_Texas
|12-02-2013, 06:32 PM||#2|
Join Date: Nov 2005
Location: Hamilton, Montana
Thanked 962 Times in 662 Posts
Blades are readily available in a wide variety of types, sizes, tooth configurations and manufacturers. Probably the two most popular are Flying Dutchman and Olson blades.
Links to the blade suppliers can be found over in the left margin of this page, under Scroll Saw Resources > Retailers. Most folks will tell you that Mike's Workshop is the best place for the Flying Dutchman blades and Sloan's Woodshop is a good source for Olson blades. Call either one of them and you will talk to a real person who can give you first hand advice on their blades and they both offer great customer service.
Personally I prefer Mikes blades...No relation BTW.
Here are links to both sites mentioned.
There is a very fine line between “hobby” and “mental illness.”
As You Slide Down the Banister of Life, Pray That All The Splinters Are Pointed The Other Way...
"Don't worry about old age--it doesn't last that long."
Mike's Wood-n-Things LLC
|12-02-2013, 09:05 PM||#3|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Butler, PA
Thanked 174 Times in 150 Posts
Ditto to what Mike said. If you are making inside cuts (frets) in your Chippendale frames, you will want to go to a plain end blade. The quality of cut is much better. You can get a smooth, almost polished edge in hardwoods with no sanding. However, being smaller and less aggressive, plain end blades will cut slower. The up side is that you get better control and a smoother cut. Depending on the level of detail, you should be able to do well with a #3 reverse tooth blade for the 1/4" stock and a #5 or #7 for the 1/2" stock. Get a few different types and sizes and try them out to see which ones work best for you. As Mike said, you can contact either suppler he linked and they will be happy to point you in the right direction.
Homer : "Oh, and how is education supposed to make me feel smarter. Besides, every time I learn something new, it pushes some old stuff out of my brain."
|12-03-2013, 11:47 AM||#4|
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Dayton, TN
Thanked 223 Times in 216 Posts
Welcome to the forum from TN.
I agree with both Mike and Bill, except I use the thinnest blade possible. Usually #1 on 1/4" and #3 on 1/2".
ArtCrafters in Dayton, TN
|12-05-2013, 09:32 AM||#5|
Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Paris, Texas
Thanked 30 Times in 27 Posts
Welcome! I am Tony,aka,Toneman from Paris, Texas. I use FD-UR #1 on 1/4" and FD-UR#3 on 1/2", but, choose the blade that makes the cut easier for you.