Hawk 226 breaking blades?

[snatiep]

Hello Everyone!
My problem is with my Hawk 226. It's breaking blades. I know I'm inserting them correctly, tensioning(sp?) correctly, etc. I sand the ends of the blades before using them to remove the oil and scuff them up a bit so the blades get a good grip. I have taken the blade holder apart and sanded the ends to clean them up as well. The blades are breaking in the middle. It's pretty frustrating.
I have a dewalt I also use and I can use a single blade so much that the teeth wear off!
If any of you Hawk owners can help, I'd sure appreciate some help or advice!

Thanks!
Nate

[Rivari]

Hmmm, if you checked all your adjustments and they are good I would have to say that perhaps you have a bad batch of blades...shot in the dark there.

I've had no similiar problems like you describe. What type/size of blades are you using?

I'm sure Jeff and some of the other Hawk owners will chime in with more info as an easy solution has to exist.

[utbva]

Nate, I feel your pain as President Clinton used to say. I have a Hawk 220 and for the most part everything is ok, but the other night I was cutting out a puzzle and for the first time I was using the FD-SP blades and they would cut for about 10 minutes and then break in the middle. I have also reduced the tension but I don't know if it is too little or too much. I used FD-SR 2/0 and did not break one blade. So I am looking for answers as well.

[Rivari]

Nate and Bill, what type/size wood were you working with? Also, at what speed were you cutting?

Myself I am a real slow poke when it comes to cutting and I keep my saw speed pretty slow.

Perhaps the problem is excessive saw speed with a hardwoods? Another shot in the dark.

[utbva]

I was using 1/4" BB ply and running at close to top speed. After I finished the puzzle and broke 12 blades I got to thinking that maybe in needed to slow the saw down. I haven't had the chance since to try the slower speed. I will try that over the weekend if I can get the shop warm enough to keep my fingers from freezing off.

[workin for wood]

I know that too little tension can also break blades..causes a bowing effect inside the wood that weakens the blade. On the rare occasion that I use a different size blade than I normally do, I crank the tension back, insert a blade and pull back the tension bar. Then I start cranking the tension crank at the blade until I can only push the front of the blade back about 1/8 inch. With smaller blades like puzzle blades, that would be too much tension, those would be able to be pushed back about 1/4 inch. With those blades I crank the tensioner at the back until the blade pops..then I turn back a half turn and try another blade.
Or...maybe your blades suck, or you got a bad dozen? Don't ask me what's the best brand, or I'll be running for the hills !

Oh yeah...like Mr Birthday boy says...speed can sure be a factor. A number 9 blade can buzz like a chainsaw, but an 8/0 jeweler blade needs to chug chug chug like a train starting off on a hill.

[PeteB]

I use puzzle blades pretty much exclusively, and have not been able to run at sustained high speeds without very short blade life.

My Hawk has a lot of vibration at high speeds which may be part of the issue, but the blades actually seem to cut better at moderate speeds, probably from chip removal. I really ought to try mounting the saw on a slab, because I'd like to cut faster if possible.

I tension the blades about the same as I would a 2/0, and "ping" them to test.

Blade life is usually pretty good, and normally it's wear and resultant slow cutting that prompts me to change blades. An exception to this is Finland birch,in which the glue lines turn black and the blades break before they wear out.

Pete

[utbva]

I was tensioning the SP blades to about or maybe a little less than the 2/0 blades, but they would still break after about 10 minutes. I never had a problem with the 2/0 blades, so I may just use them. My Hawk vibrates more at some speeds than others, so I adjust it to a speed where the vibration is minimal.

It's kind of like balancing the tires on your car. Sometimes if they are not properly ballanced, you can go 55mph and the car will shake, but if you get up to 60 or 65mph or more the shaking will stop and you can drive in comfort.

[snatiep]

My speed is the same as Bill, I adjust it "in between" the wobbles on the Hawk. It isn't too fast though. I'm cutting 1/8" baltic birch with a 2/0 reverse tooth blade. I think I may have too little tension on it. I'm adjusting it to the recommended 12:30 position on the sticker. It bows pretty good in the Hawk. When I use them in my Dewalt I tighten them up pretty good and they last a looooong time. So maybe I'll tighten the tension up a littlt more than recommended on the Hawk and try it. Maybe like 11:30 or 12:30.

Thanks,
Nate

[Rivari]

Wobbles and vibrations?

Folks what have you got your saws sitting on?

I'm almost insulted that you are experiencing things like this, you should not have these problems in no way. My G4 purrs right along and vibration is no factor what so ever, do tell what you have your saws mounted on.