Scroll Saw blade sizes (for a dummy)

[dale]

I hear you all talking about using different blades.
I understand the sprial. the ones that have the reverse blades. and so on.
But what I dont understand is like what is the difference between a #2 and #5
Is it the thicknessof the blade or what.

Please set me straight.
dale

[PuzzledMoose]

Yes, Dale it's the thickness of the blade - and the number of teeth. A No 2 blade is thinner and has more teeth than a No. 5.

The precise number of teeth and width varies slightly depending on manufacturer.

Here are charts that shows the blade types, thickness, and tooth count for:

Flying Dutchman Blades:

http://www.mikesworkshop.com/blades.htm

Olson:

http://www.olsonsaw.com/scroll_chart.html

Pegas:

http://www.bensscrollsaw.com/blade.html

[Kevin12]

I've wondered about the seeming lack of standards when it comes to dimensions, which is shown by the tables PuzzledMoose posted. It seems if a pattern says, "Use a #2 blade," that really means, "Use any blade you want as long as it's on the small side."

I've heard (and believe) you should use the largest blade you can that will perform the job you want. Larger blades may have too wide a kerf or not be able turn as tight a radius as you need. The larger blades are more agressive but may cut too fast for a particular project. It all depends. Experiment - blades aren't that expensive.

To date I've mostly used Olson #2R blades for fretwork Xmas ornaments. Perhaps I could have used bigger blades sometimes, but I'm comfortable with the #2R so I tend to stick with them. I haven't tried FD or Pegas but I intend to. Some scrollers swear by one brand or another. I also typically stack cut Red Oak or BB plywood to around 3/4" thick. The 2Rs may not perform as well with 1" or thicker or with much harder woods.

So buy half a dozen packs and play around with them - test their limits (the smaller blades break easier than the larger ones, of course). Have fun -- that's what it's all about anyway.

Hope this helps!