What kind of scroll saw would you buy today? - Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board

cskipper · 11-25-2006, 12:10 AM

I am at a point of wanting to be a new scroll saw and am shopping for opinions about which to buy. I'm leaning toward a Hegner. Thanks in advance for any input.
cskipper

Gill · 11-25-2006, 01:12 AM

Hi Cathy

You won't go far wrong with a Hegner. However, I know it's an obvious thing to say but please make sure you've identified what it is you want from your new saw. What are the limitations you're experiencing with your Delta? What other options have you considered?

Gill

cskipper · 11-25-2006, 12:33 PM

The biggest problem that I am having is inconsistency in pieces when I am stack cutting. I am either stacking1/8 or 1/4" stock for ornaments, coasters, etc and have a significant difference in the top and bottom piece. If I only stack up to 1" thick I can't use any pattern that has thin "walls" because the bottom piece tends to not be usable.

I also make a lot of trivets (and according to a gallery I sold some pieces to, window decorations). I use 1/4 - 3/8" stock, depending on how I think the piece is going to be used. Stack cutting these still gives me the problem with incosistency and vibration. I cut slowly and work at not forcing the blade, but feel that the problem is largely due to the motion of the arm/blade. I hate to cut anything without stack cutting - it just seems like poor use of my time since my shop time is limited.

I started with the Delta because it wasn't the cheapest but not $500. I wasn't really sure how much I would enjoy cutting with it and didn't want to make a huge investment. Now I am thoroughly hooked.

I really want to start cutting those really challenging pieces with the gazillion inside cuts and thin connections between pieces (like the Pups on a Bench). I know I can buy a DeWalt that will resolve some of these issues. But since I don't plan on buying a saw every couple of years (wishful thinking?) I wonder if it makes more sense to just go ahead and make the big jump.

workin for wood · 11-25-2006, 01:32 PM

Sounds to me like the saw is out of adjustment. There's alot of scrollers using delta's without those problems. I'd start by increasing the blade tension and then I'd check the squareness of the blade to the table. I don't really care for using an actual square because the teeth on a blade are offset to one side causing the blade to wander in that direction. Get a scrap of 3/4 lumber or more and make a straight cut into it about 1/2" deep. flip the wood over and make an identicle cut about 1/4" to the side of your last cut. Now measure the distances of the cut from top to top and bottom to bottom. The two cuts should be exactly parrallel to one another. Also, train yourself to make all your cuts in the same direction. I'm a counter clockwise cutter myself.

Jediscroller · 11-25-2006, 01:34 PM

If I were buying one today, I'd give the Diamond serious consideration as well. As I like to create and cut patterns for "woodworms on steroids" which is what it sounds like you want to cut as well top feeding is immensely helpful. The Hawk G4 and the Excaliburs offer this. I have an EX 30 and stack everything. No regrets in my purchase.

Gill · 11-25-2006, 01:51 PM

I agree with Jeff - it sounds as if your table is out of alignment with your blade. His technique for checking alignment is failsafe and I'd strongly urge you to follow his advice. After all, why buy a new saw if you can correct the error so easily?

That said, if you're going to be doing a lot of scrolling it will be handy to have two saws because there'll inevitably be times when one of them needs servicing. If you're making a lot of piercing cuts, look for a saw that has quick blade change mechanisms. This is one aspect where machines such as larger Hegners really score over Diamonds. It takes a lot longer to change a blade than the eight seconds that Diamond claim!

Gill

ChuckD · 11-25-2006, 07:51 PM

Another great way to check for square and I use it when ever I am in doubt. Get a 3/4 inch of scrap, cut in about 1/4 inch then cut a circle and come back to where you started. If the cut piece comes out nicely in both directions it is square. If not use Jeff's method to find which way to go. Good Luck

cskipper · 11-26-2006, 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jediscroller

If I were buying one today, I'd give the Diamond serious consideration as well. As I like to create and cut patterns for "woodworms on steroids" which is what it sounds like you want to cut as well top feeding is immensely helpful. The Hawk G4 and the Excaliburs offer this. I have an EX 30 and stack everything. No regrets in my purchase.

I'd never heard of the Diamond before. What is the conversion rate in currency?

Rolf · 11-26-2006, 02:44 AM

If I were to buy a new saw today I would still buy the RBI G4.
More room under the top arm for thick wood and my fingers.
Top or bottom feeding
An almost vertical cut motion.
( I know someone asked me to measure the front to back motion, sorry havn't had a chance)
I would also take a hard look at the Eclipse.
I wish someone in our club had a P20, I would really like to try one.

cskipper · 11-26-2006, 03:51 AM

I haven't been able to determine from the literature, does the Eclipse require a tool for changing the blade?

11-25-2006, 12:10 AM	#1
cskipper Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Forest City, NC Posts: 172	What kind of scroll saw would you buy today? I am at a point of wanting to be a new scroll saw and am shopping for opinions about which to buy. I'm leaning toward a Hegner. Thanks in advance for any input. cskipper

11-25-2006, 01:12 AM	#2
Gill Fallen Angel Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 2,625	Hi Cathy You won't go far wrong with a Hegner. However, I know it's an obvious thing to say but please make sure you've identified what it is you want from your new saw. What are the limitations you're experiencing with your Delta? What other options have you considered? Gill __________________ There is no opinion, however absurd, which men will not readily embrace as soon as they can be brought to the conviction that it is readily adopted. (Schopenhauer, Die Kunst Recht zu Behalten)

11-25-2006, 12:33 PM	#3
cskipper Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Forest City, NC Posts: 172	Limitations of current Delta The biggest problem that I am having is inconsistency in pieces when I am stack cutting. I am either stacking1/8 or 1/4" stock for ornaments, coasters, etc and have a significant difference in the top and bottom piece. If I only stack up to 1" thick I can't use any pattern that has thin "walls" because the bottom piece tends to not be usable. I also make a lot of trivets (and according to a gallery I sold some pieces to, window decorations). I use 1/4 - 3/8" stock, depending on how I think the piece is going to be used. Stack cutting these still gives me the problem with incosistency and vibration. I cut slowly and work at not forcing the blade, but feel that the problem is largely due to the motion of the arm/blade. I hate to cut anything without stack cutting - it just seems like poor use of my time since my shop time is limited. I started with the Delta because it wasn't the cheapest but not $500. I wasn't really sure how much I would enjoy cutting with it and didn't want to make a huge investment. Now I am thoroughly hooked. I really want to start cutting those really challenging pieces with the gazillion inside cuts and thin connections between pieces (like the Pups on a Bench). I know I can buy a DeWalt that will resolve some of these issues. But since I don't plan on buying a saw every couple of years (wishful thinking?) I wonder if it makes more sense to just go ahead and make the big jump.

11-25-2006, 01:32 PM	#4
workin for wood Master Scroller Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Eaton Rapids Michigan Posts: 2,474	Sounds to me like the saw is out of adjustment. There's alot of scrollers using delta's without those problems. I'd start by increasing the blade tension and then I'd check the squareness of the blade to the table. I don't really care for using an actual square because the teeth on a blade are offset to one side causing the blade to wander in that direction. Get a scrap of 3/4 lumber or more and make a straight cut into it about 1/2" deep. flip the wood over and make an identicle cut about 1/4" to the side of your last cut. Now measure the distances of the cut from top to top and bottom to bottom. The two cuts should be exactly parrallel to one another. Also, train yourself to make all your cuts in the same direction. I'm a counter clockwise cutter myself. __________________ Jeff Powell

11-25-2006, 01:34 PM	#5
Jediscroller American Crafstman Join Date: Jul 2005 Location: Galaxy far, far away Posts: 3,174 Blog Entries: 5	If I were buying one today, I'd give the Diamond serious consideration as well. As I like to create and cut patterns for "woodworms on steroids" which is what it sounds like you want to cut as well top feeding is immensely helpful. The Hawk G4 and the Excaliburs offer this. I have an EX 30 and stack everything. No regrets in my purchase. __________________ Kevin Scrollsaw Patterns Online Making holes in wood with an EX-30, Craftsman 16" VS, Dremel 1680 and 1671

11-25-2006, 01:51 PM	#6
Gill Fallen Angel Join Date: Mar 2005 Posts: 2,625	I agree with Jeff - it sounds as if your table is out of alignment with your blade. His technique for checking alignment is failsafe and I'd strongly urge you to follow his advice. After all, why buy a new saw if you can correct the error so easily? That said, if you're going to be doing a lot of scrolling it will be handy to have two saws because there'll inevitably be times when one of them needs servicing. If you're making a lot of piercing cuts, look for a saw that has quick blade change mechanisms. This is one aspect where machines such as larger Hegners really score over Diamonds. It takes a lot longer to change a blade than the eight seconds that Diamond claim! Gill __________________ There is no opinion, however absurd, which men will not readily embrace as soon as they can be brought to the conviction that it is readily adopted. (Schopenhauer, Die Kunst Recht zu Behalten)

11-25-2006, 07:51 PM	#7
ChuckD Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Beautiful Southern Oregon Posts: 694	Another great way to check for square and I use it when ever I am in doubt. Get a 3/4 inch of scrap, cut in about 1/4 inch then cut a circle and come back to where you started. If the cut piece comes out nicely in both directions it is square. If not use Jeff's method to find which way to go. Good Luck __________________ Chuck D A truly happy person is one who can enjoy the scenery on a detour. Hegner 18, Delta p-20, Griz 14 inch Band saw

11-26-2006, 02:44 AM	#9
Rolf Senior Member Join Date: Apr 2005 Location: Bellport, LI New York Posts: 2,808	If I were to buy a new saw today I would still buy the RBI G4. More room under the top arm for thick wood and my fingers. Top or bottom feeding An almost vertical cut motion. ( I know someone asked me to measure the front to back motion, sorry havn't had a chance) I would also take a hard look at the Eclipse. I wish someone in our club had a P20, I would really like to try one. __________________ Rolf RBI G4 Hawk, Delta SS350 Philosophy "I don't know that I can't, therefore I can"

11-26-2006, 03:51 AM	#10
cskipper Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: Forest City, NC Posts: 172	Eclipse I haven't been able to determine from the literature, does the Eclipse require a tool for changing the blade?

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