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| | #11 |
| Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Myrtle Beach, South Carolina
Posts: 69
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I have had my DeWalt for 9+ years and also live in South Carolina (very Humid) conditions. Your DW788 is rusting on the edges because of your arms and wrists touching the surface there as was said previously. My tablesaw top (cast iron) and bandsaw table (cast iron) also rust. I use a product called TopSaver to remove the rust, but, it will still rust again. Two other suggestions: If you cover your tabletops with an old bedsheet, between uses it will not rust where covered even in a humid garage. I have proven this when some areas of the table were not covered with a sheet. Another tip is if you store "slightly used" scroll saw blades in the open air they will rust. This will not effect the blades cutting ability, but, will rust stain the first inch of wood that you cat. I call this "Rusty scroll saw blade season". |
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| | #12 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,502
| Quote:
Theresa | |
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| | #13 |
| Moderator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: SW MN
Posts: 1,698
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I have only had my Dremel a few months but I have an idea that I won't have the problem many of you are experiencing. My wrists and hands hardly ever make anything more than momentary contact with the table top. I'm sure we all have different styles but I have an idea that the people that haven't had the problem also don't rest their hands or wrists on the table. I was thinking about that while sawing this afternoon. The times when there is no wood to place my appendages on, I keep my wrists suspended a little. I assume that the humidity coupled with the perspiration or oils in the skin, are what's doing it. Just my thought. You're welcome to take it with a grain of salt, of course.
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| | #14 | |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Michigan
Posts: 1,502
| Quote:
Threresa | |
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| | #15 |
| Gone to the Dark Side Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 1,122
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The problem doesn't lie with resting the wrists and hands or not. It depends on the environment. I experience rust on my table saw, pressdrill, bandsaw and DW788. And the DeWalt is the least expensive of these items. I also have rust on my engineer squares and other hand tools. I have to do maintenance on all of them, and I also need to get a de-humidifier for the shop. So Metal and moisture in the air = rust, it's as simple as that. Oh, and by the way, the reason some experience rust where they rest their paws is known as sweat (yea, yea, I know : girls don't sweat) and if you don't want to believe it's sweat then tell yourself that the skin is trapping more moisture in that area causing it to rust faster.You'll experience the same problem if you leave items lying on top of the table that could trap moisture. So... What has been said about sanding, cleaning and waxing as well as using protective products that contain no silicone (very important) such as T9 or TopCoat is very good advice. And preventive maintenance helps. Don't wait till your table is pitted by rust to take care of it, and you'll have tools that will last a long time. Regards, Marcel
__________________ http://marleb.com DW788. -Have fun in the shop or it isn't a hobby anymore. NOTE: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced. |
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| | #16 | |
| Moderator Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: SW MN
Posts: 1,698
| Quote:
Or are you saying that the problem isn't caused by the wrists and hands but that it does factor in?
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| | #17 |
| Senior Member |
I would have rust in the same spots you folks mention if I didnt wax mine periodically. The wax is available in most bigger grocery stores or dept stores carry it. Its in the cleaning and floor waxing area. Its in a little yellow and red can. If only using it on a scrollsaw, this can will last you many years, but if you have a TS, BS, DP or any other cast iron top tools, you should wax them as well. How many of you have a circle on one of your tools tabletops where a beverage can was set there? I have one of those circles on a tablesaw I got at an auction years ago. That spot never quits rusting, no matter what I do, after a few months its starting again. Everyone that ever gets near any of my tools knows not to even THINK about setting a can on any of my tools, my 4H group of kids can attest to that! Dale |
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| | #18 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,492
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Theresa, I have had my can of Johnson's paste wax for many years and I have heard that it is difficult to find. I would look at Wal-Mart, K-Mart any large dept. or hardware store, maybe in your local grocery store. Call a store that sells flooring they maybe be able to tell you where to find it. You don't have to use Johnson's, any brand will do as long as it does not contain silicone. Most paste car waxes do. Let us all know if you find Johnson's. Mick P-20 |
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| | #19 |
| Gone to the Dark Side Join Date: Mar 2006 Location: Québec, Canada
Posts: 1,122
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Mike, Sorry, if I sound confusing. What I said was that it was dependent on the environment, not solely on resting hands & wrists: You can get a rusty table without using the saw at all. Also, if you sweat some, but are in a very dry environment, your sweat is probably going to evaporate fast enough so that it will not really be a rust factor. But if you are in a damp environment, your sweat (and salty content) could be a factor that should be considered in accelerating a rust problem. Hope I'm making more sense Regards, Marcel
__________________ http://marleb.com DW788. -Have fun in the shop or it isn't a hobby anymore. NOTE: No trees were killed in the sending of this message, but a large number of electrons were terribly inconvenienced. |
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| | #20 |
| Master Procrastinator Join Date: Oct 2004 Location: central la
Posts: 192
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i guess the cast iron tops are much like the old cast iron skillits, once you keep enough protectant on them they stop rusting as long as you dont let it get wet.. both my saws have this problem inherent to cast iron tables, from perspiration in the summer off my hands, i just had enough and got out my 4-1/2 grinder with a sheep bonnet and jewelers rouge, and took to polishing the tops. once they got shinny i coated them with a good coat of paraffin wax petroleum jelly and acetone. mixture i read about in mechanics illustrated years ago.. much like the johnson's paste wax.. its not a good idea to sand or polish the table with abrasives becuse you can make dished spots in it, but a polished smooth surface the finer the better resists corriosion better than the raw mill finish... mine isent polished to chrome, bout half way from mill to chrome though. this summer i haven't had the problem ... but i do wipe down the table with wd40 if i use the saw to cut a long time, to keep moisture from collecting on the perspiration salts...
__________________ Dremel 1680 & Delta ss250 shopmaster |
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