Removing Rust from Scroll Table

[risccas]

I just posted yesterday about inheriting my first scroll saw(Delta 40-601). The saw had been sitting idle for about 2-3 years and has developed a layer of surface rust on the table top. I was hoping that you guys could give me some advice about how to remove that rust properly. I was hoping to be able to remove the rust with out removing/hurting the swirled machining pattern that was originally on the surface of the table top.....as you can still see it through the rust. Will that be possible?

Anyways, your advice would be greatly appreciated!

Jason

[Gill]

Hi Jason

My tables are either aluminium or plywood, so I'm afraid I've no experience when it comes to removing rust. Sorry .

However, rather than scouring your table to remove the rust (which could leave your table uneven) you might consider using a false table, possibly with a zero tolerance blade insert such as the one discussed here.

Gill

[lucky788scroller]

I would use mineral spirits, and sandpaper on a block of wood, 320 or 400 grit. Sand it wet in circular motion. Once happy with the rust off, wipe it real clean with mineral spirits, then wipe it good with rubbing alcohol, followed by a coat of johnsons paste wax.
Dale

[CanadianScroller]

I am ready for the screams
I have used a sharpening stone, Rubbing it over the table.
Then I wiped the dust off with a rag soaked in mineral spirits.
The stone didn't damage the table at all.

[Mick Walker]

Jason, fine steel wool if it is just surface rust. Wipe it down with mineral spirits and apply paste wax. Do not use car wax as it contains silicone which you don't want to get on your wood. I apply Johnson's paste wax every couple months, keeps the rust away and lets the wood slide easier. Mick

[SharonW0111]

Depending on how bad the rust is --but I use sandpaper on my palm sander and let the sander do the job--works great and with use the rust stays gone. I have a cast iron table but I never found the need to coat it with anything .
Sharon

[Neal Moore]

There is a product called Naval Jelly that is an excellent rust remover. It's available at most hardware stores. It will do the job but you MUST follow the instructions regarding surface treatment after the rust is removed or it will oxidize worse than before. It is a caustic solution so you don't want it on your bare skin or clothing. It's good stuff and will work as advertised if you follow directions and use reasonable care. I've used it many times with excellent results. After the rust is removed use the paste wax as was previously recommended to seal the surface and prevent further oxidation.

[boogatoo]

Removing Rust with Electrolysis (see Shopnotes magazine Issue No.72 Nov/Dec 2003. http://www.shopnotes.com/main/sn72-toc.html
This will clean all sides! Not only the top! Without removing the original patina. It works by chemical reaction. The current is passed through the solution to create a raction that removes the rust. Electrolysis removes only the rust not the metal like sanding or grinding. And it requires a lot less effort.

Requested:
Water
1 or 2 table spoon of Arm and Armor Super Washing Soda (1 Table spoon per gallon)
Car battery charger (not car battery booster)
Large plastic container (like those storage to slide under the bed)
A large piece of iron Like a 3" x 6" long "L" shape on corner braket. This will act as an anode.

Mix Super Washing solution in water until disolved. Take care not to splash water and wear rubber gloves and eye protection (THIS IS CAUSTIC).
Make enough caustic solution to cover the piece on wich to remove the rust and the anode.

- De-assemble the table top
- Soak the tabletop it in the solution.
- Soak the scap metal (anode) in the solution
* Soak them about 1 to 2 inches apart without touching each other
* Submerge the 2 pieces completely (about 1 inch) under the water
- Unplug the charger
- Clamp the negative (-) (black) lead to the Table top
- Clamp the positive (+) (red) lead to the anode
- Set the charger to the lowest AMP charging setting (if it has multiple settings) - If your charger have a boost setting, make sure you are using the charging and not the boost setting.
- Make sure the 2 metal pieces do no touch together or you will short the charger and plug the charger
Very shortly you will see bubbles forming on the surface.

The part that is closest to the anode will be cleaned first, so after a while, turn the anode around the table top to clan all around.
UNPLUG THE CHARGER FIRST! Once again, make sure the 2 metal pieces do no touch together or you will short the charger.

THE POLARITY IS IMPORTANT BECAUSE If you invert them, you will end-up with a clean piece of scap and a more rusty table top.

Once done (after a couple of hours - the water will look dirty), rince the tabletop with clean water, scrubing gently with a scrubing pad.

Dry it and apply paste wax on all the bare metal surfaces to avoid future rust from forming again. If you have no wax, you can use oil or but once ready to use your tool, clean it with kerosene.

SAFETY RECOMMENDATIONS
- Wear rubber gloves and safety glasses
- Use in well ventilated area
- Don't leave unatended and to the rach of children
- DON'T PUT YOUR HAND IN THE SOLUTION WHILE THE CHARGER IS PLUGGED.

[wiscTom]

I had planned on introducing myself in the Welcome Members section and still need to do that, but I thought I’d offer my two-cents regarding rust removal. Last summer, I tried to bring an old Table Saw back to life and tried a couple of the cast iron products sold by the woodworker’s stores.

I was impressed with a product called TopSaver, which is advertised as a “Rust Remover/Lubricant/Surface Sealant/Conditioner for metal surfaces”.

Tom

[risccas]

Thank you all so much for the great tips!!!
Jason