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Tools and Blades | |||
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| | #1 |
| Moderator CUT IT OUT |
I saw a post in the newbies section but I am replying in here This is not a hard fact but these numbers work for me. #2/0 good for wood up to 1/8" #2 good for wood up to 1/3" #3 good for wood up to 1/2” #5 good for wood up to 3/4" #7 good for wood up to 1 1/4” #9 good for wood up to 1 3/4" That being said there are times when I push blades to thicker woods because I need a thin kerf for a tight fit. A good rule of thumb is to use a blade that has at least three teeth in contact with the wood at any time. You will also find that some blade styles cut more aggressively than others. Try different blades on different woods and write down how they feel. Don't go by memory, it fails more than a dull blade does.
__________________ CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net." Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21 Last edited by CanadianScroller; 10-26-2005 at 12:51 AM. Reason: Dumb Candan spelling mistakes :D |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Brandon, SD
Posts: 674
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Hi Carl, "You will also find that some blade styles cut more aggressively than others." The reason for this is that a single tooth blades cut more aggressive as a double tooth blade. A double tooth blade is easier to control for a beginner. I agree with the numbers except a # 12 would be better in 1 3/4" however said that, it all depends how intricate the pattern is. Also remember when pushing a little too hard into thick wood, the blade will start cutting with a bevel. Mike
__________________ Home of the FD Blades |
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| | #3 |
| Technical Editor |
Great Topic!!!!! Bob
__________________ www.WoodCarvingIllustrated.com www.FoxChapelPublishing.com www.ScrollSawer.com Shopsmith, Hawk G4 |
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| | #4 |
| American Crafstman |
I use #3 FD-SR's for just about everything up to 3/4", on caveat is that I seldom cut anything under 1/2", thinner than that and I'll stack cut the pieces. Last night I cut some 2 1/8" Padauk, the largest blades I had were some #9 Skip Tooth Olsons, they wouldn't cut the stuff worth a squat. I switched over to #7 FD-SR's and more or less breezed through the cutting. I occasionally use #1 FD-SR's for extremely intricate cuts or on those rare occasions when I'm cutting something thinner than 1/2". Kevin |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: lower sackville, nova scotia
Posts: 105
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tonight i'm cutting some 1" pine. what would you recommend? i'm thinking a FD-SR #7. agree/disagree?
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| | #6 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Aug 2005 Location: Hammond, IN
Posts: 871
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I'd agree. Since you're cutting pine, you could probably use a #5 and have good results too.
__________________ Fred There's a fine line between woodworking and insanity, I'm just not sure which side of the line I'm on! |
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| | #7 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 5
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I'm new to this.... very new. I have been trying to cut at least one piece a night to get better. Tonight I needed a very fine cut and switched to a 2/0. The 2/0 blade cut almost directly from the right side instead of from the front. Is it common for a smaller blade to be off like that? Is there anything you can do to straighten them? I've been thinking when I need a finer blade I should use the smallest spiral blade I can find instead of a flat blade. When switching from one blade, or brand, to another that cuts a different way what do you do to "compensate" for the difference? Whatever it may be. Help........ I really want to learn this the right way. Thanks, Sam |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2004 Location: Greenfield Indiana
Posts: 1,534
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How thick is the wood you are cutting? I can't cut a straight line with a 2/0 FD-SR blade, when I need that size blade I use an Olson or a FD-PSR 2/0. Bob
__________________ Delta P-20 & Q-3 Ever notice that anyone going slower than you is an idiot, but anyone going faster than you is a maniac? |
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| | #9 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2005 Location: Sherman, Texas
Posts: 284
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Sam-- I don't know what you are cutting or how thick your wood is, but a #2 is small enough for most cuts and I use them even in 3/4" wood for segmentation projects. I do, however, use 2/0 spirals and 2/0 flat-end spirals (Olson) for flat pictorial work like Zaffino's patterns. I use an Olson #5 PGT (precision ground) DT or ST for most segmentation cutting (puzzles too) and they cut 3/4" Oak with no problem. Yes, they are more expensive, but I have yet to break one and they last a long time before getting dull. Moon
__________________ Old Mooner |
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| | #10 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Cottageville, West Virginia
Posts: 1,077
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Sellersam.....the blade drifts to the right due to the way it is manufactured. It cuts faster on the right edge of the teeth than it does on the left. You can eliminate some of the problem by holding a sharpening stone lightly against the right side of the blade while the saw is running to remove the burr created during manufacture. Additionally, the small blade will tend to drift if the wood is too thick and you are forcing the stock into the blade. Most scrollers realize that the blades naturally tend to drift and learn to compensate through experience. Although I've read about the sharpening stone trick, I've never had occasion to try it.
__________________ If it don't fit, don't force it....get a bigger hammer!! |
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