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Tools and Blades | |||
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| | #1 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 9
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Hello, which scroll saw is better to have when it comes to fretwork? Thanks, Lin |
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| | #2 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Janesville, WI
Posts: 1,338
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Lin, you should be able to cut fret work with any scroll saw that uses pinless blades. You could cut it with pinned blades depending on how small your inside cuts are. The best scroll saw is the one you are used to using and are confident in using, it is difficult to do a good job scrolling if your fingers, arms and shoulders are tense. You should be relaxed while using it. Mick.
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| | #3 |
| Junior Member Join Date: Mar 2005
Posts: 7
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Lin, I currently have a Hawk 226. I have had several other saws and this one is the best for fretwork that I have used. The blade goes straight up and down so intricate cuts are more accurate. As was stated previously, you have to be comfortable with your saw. I call scrolling my "golf without the exercise and fresh air". I can thoroughly relax while I am scrolling. |
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| | #4 |
| Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Glen Ellyn, IL
Posts: 89
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I've had a 30" Excalibur for about 3 years, and I absolutely love it for fretwork, which is what I do most of the time. It is virtually vibration free. You can change blades with your eyes closed and you can thread the blade into your pattern from the top for inside cuts. I tried the Excalibur, Hegner, and RBI at a Chicago Woodworking show. Prices were about the same. The Excalibur was clearly the best for me with the RBI a strong second. Dan |
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| | #5 |
| Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2006 Location: KENTUCKY
Posts: 243
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Go To Advanced Scroll Saw Patterns And Look Into-my Scroll Saw- You Will See The Eclipse Running And It Will Amaze You. |
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| | #6 |
| American Crafstman |
Of all the replies, I think Mick's was about the best advise. ANY scrollsaw can be used for fretwork, you don't need to spend thousands. For myself, I primarily use an Excalibur and it's a fine machine, but it's rediculously priced unless either you've got too much money or you need a production quality saw. The Eclipse and Hawk are also fine saws. The most important things for fretwork are ease of blade changes (read tooless blade changes) and the ability to take pinless blades. For inexpensive saws, the Craftsman 16" VS, the Dremel 1680 and 1800, and I believe the Delta SS350 all fit this bill. I cut some very intricate pieces on both the Craftsman and the Dremel 1680 without problems. Properly mounted, both of these saws offer very little vibration and will provide a hobbiest with many hours of enjoyment. I haven't used the SS350 so I can't make any educated comments on it. All of these saws will cost you less than $200. Something that I've found that makes fretwork much easier and more productive is the ability to top feed, unfortunately, no one (that I'm aware of) offers this option in a low cost saw. The price about doubles for this convenience (not a necessity), the Dewalt 788, Delta P-20, Excalibur EX-19, EX-21 and EX-30 and I believe all of the Hawks offer this capability. The Dewalt and Delta are in the $400 - $500 range while the EX-19 and 21 are in the $750 - $1000 range. Above this are the Hawk G4, EX-30, Hegners, and the Eclipse. The Hegners and the Eclipse do not offer top feeding however. So, depending on your budget, my picks would be for under $200 the Craftsman 16VS, for under $500 it's a toss-up, and over $1000 the EX-30 for fretwork. If intricate fretwork weren't my first priority I would give the edge to the Hegner or the Eclipse. Let me just finish by saying this is only my opinion based on having either extensively used or "test-drove" a number of saws. Kevin |
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| | #7 |
| Moderator CUT IT OUT |
Like others have said pinless blades are best for fretwork. I used a Delta SS250 for many years, the blade chages were always quick. The lower blade clamp needed a custom allen key to change blades. but it was very easy to do. Something to think about is the depth of the throat of the saw. Many of the entry level saws have a 16" capacity. This isn't a problem if the pattern you are cutting is less than 16". It can be a challenge to cut longer pieces but there are many work arounds. The saw I use now has an 18" throat. I was surprised the 2" made a big difference. Like Jediscroller said top feeding is an advantage. If you have to thread from the bottom, removing the hold down helps. There are also accessory lights that can be used to find the holes when bottom feeding.
__________________ CAЯL HIRD-RUTTEЯ "proud member of the best scroll sawing forum on the net." Ryobi SC180VS scroll saw EX21 |
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| | #8 |
| Senior Member |
The best saw is the one you can afford , takes pinless blades,has controls easily accessible,allows for easy blade changes, vibrates minimumly. Any of these factors can be covered with many diffrent saws, in many price ranges.
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| | #9 | |
| Scroller/Turner Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Wynndel, British Columbia Canada
Posts: 710
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Kevin; That was an excellent response and covered a lot of ground. Just one thing I was confused on Quote:
And Dale summed it up beautifully with his response as well as the responses from the rest. Nice well addressed topic. W.Y.
__________________ http://www.picturetrail.com/willyswoodcrafting The task ahead of us is never as great as the power behind us Delta P-20 Scroll Saw, 14" x 43" Craftex Wood Lathe and Jet 10" Mini Lathe . | |
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| | #10 | |
| American Crafstman | Quote:
Kevin | |
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