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Old 02-24-2005, 02:11 AM   #1
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Default Plexiglass tabletop for Excalibur?

Is it possible to replace the 17x12 aluminum tabletop with a 17x17 round plexiglass tabletop? If so how would you recommend?

Xeno
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Old 02-24-2005, 06:35 PM   #2
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Post Table replacement

Well I dont have an Excaliber, but I would think it would be possible if you used the brackets that adjust the table,
The plexiglass could be attached with countersunk screws, My choice would be to fasten it on with machine screws.The idea of a transparent table is good, much easier to see the blade clamps, especially when feedint the blade from the top for intricate fretwork.
I am not sure how long a plexiglass table would stay smooth.
An alternative may be to make a plywood table with a smaller plexiglass insert.
You could then use less plexi and thinner plexi to save costs.
Good luck
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Last edited by CanadianScroller; 02-24-2005 at 11:01 PM.
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Old 02-24-2005, 07:38 PM   #3
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Xeno,

If you want a bigger table, most people put Plexi Glass on top of the table, some use double tape to hold it dow.
What kind of saw do you have? Why do you want a bigger table? Most tables are big enough to cut any size wood.

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Old 02-25-2005, 04:25 PM   #4
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My question would be why. The top that is there is the most true top you can put on there. Like Mike said some people I am included have increased the size of the top by adding a piece of plexi on top and hold it down with double sided tape. I did this because I scroll large pieces such as the mirrors in my album and you need stability when the weight swings close to the end. You have to watch if you use reverse tooth blades to not make the plexi too thick or else the bottom teeth are useless. I have 2 RBI and have done this on. I find it also gives me the right resistance when spinning the wood. I would not replace the top just add to it.
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Old 02-25-2005, 04:35 PM   #5
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I put plexiglass on top of my regular table when I am do very fine detailed sawing or compound sawing and don't want the piece to break or come apart. It seems to give it extra support around the blade area and the wood seems to maneuver much easier. I have a hole drilled in it about 1/8" for the blade to slip through. As I have hegner, this also blocks off the long slit in the table top. Somewhere I came across some double sided postal tape that would hold an elephant to a rock! LOL. If you use tape, just make sure you get all the residue off the regular top so you don't stick to it.
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Old 02-25-2005, 04:41 PM   #6
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Default Plexiglass table

Was just a question. I didn't know I was going to be answered with questions also though! I had read somewhere on the internet that someone did such as was curious how to go about such. I buy my saws used, as such I have had one will extremely deep gouges in it and others with holes drilled into the table top. The holes I would assume were for someone mounting an overlay table.

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Old 02-25-2005, 05:39 PM   #7
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It is not so much you asked the question but the excaliber is the most expensive saw on the market. And why would someone spend that kind of money and change to a cheap piece of plexiglass. You have explained you bought it used then that will help explain why you asked. Another option is to get a replacement top. But I still say not to change the top to plexi because of warping and such add a piece to the top and you are good to go.
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Old 02-25-2005, 08:59 PM   #8
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Here is something that has been entirely missed in this thread. Your table on the excaliber is very similar if not identical to the table on a DeWalt saw . It is heavy cast iron and is an integeral part of the design of your saw to prevent vibration. If you remove that and replace it with a light plexiglass one I would think that your saw will vibrate like crazy.
The suggestions to put a very thin plexiglass on top of your original table seems like the most logical answer.

My 2 ยข worth.
Sparky.

EDIT and CORRECTION;
I just visited a site with the Excalibur saw and notice that it does not have the same cast iron table as a DeWalt. I just assumed it did being made in the same factory as DeWalt used to be made . Sometimes it doesn't pay to assume LOL.
The fact that it is made in the same factory that DeWalt used to be made in and that it has the same parallel link system with the little flipper arms up front led me to beleive that it may have the same table as well like the DeWalt. But it does have a lot bigger and looks like heavier stand and because of its overall size and weight compared to the DeWalt , perhaps that is where they have been able to tame any vibration that some of the lighter saws have.

I still feel that a thin plexiglass top on top of the original table would be the way to go though.

Last edited by Sparkplug; 02-26-2005 at 12:49 AM.
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