Picture frame saw blades

[cpowell]

I know some of you must make your own frames. I'm struggling with it myself right now. I've almost got it all figured out but I was wondering if you use a certain kind of saw blade on your table saw for this work. Right now I'm using a plywood and trim blade because I don't want the tear out but I'm wondering if there is a better choice.

[tdub4ever]

I use my Dewalt dual bevel miter saw with a 10", 60 tooth, fine cut Diablo blade.

[Bill Wilson]

You want to get a blade, specially designed for doing crosscuts & miters. They are typically used in radial arm saws and compound miter saws, but for these kinds of cuts (not rip cuts), they work just fine in the table saw as well. I use a 10" Freud 80 tooth, carbide tip blade on my radial arm saw or a 12" Freud 96 tooth, carbide tip blade on my compound miter saw. These blades leave a very smooth, splinter free edge. Freud blades are generally readily available and reasonably priced, comparatively speaking, for good quality blades, but there are other excellent options out there.

For doing miters & crosscuts on the table saw, you need a very accurate and stable jig. This is just as important as the blade, if not more so. Most standard equipment miter gauges that come with table saws aren't up to the task of making repeatable, accurate miters for picture frames. Google cross cut and/or miter sled and you will see what I'm talking about. It is absolutely critical that angles of the cuts be spot on, because any small error will be compounded across all 4 corners and cause problems at assembly.

[cpowell]

Bill you have described my problem exactly. I'll take a look for sleds on Google and see what's there. I do hope you mean that there might be something or someone who might make one that will fit this Ryobi and will be cheaper than a miter saw. Or, examples of how to make one.

[Bill Wilson]

As I noticed in your other thread, you seem to be getting the desired results from your RAS. That's great. There is still merit in having a good crosscut/miter sled for your table saw, but it is a jig that you build yourself. It's essentially a sliding platform that rides on runners that fit in your table saw's miter gauge slots, with a fixed position fence that is designed for accuracy, not adjustability.

Another key element in getting good results on any kind of saw, when making picture frames, is the ability to cut all matching pieces to the exact same length. This can be accomplished with stop blocks along the fence. By positioning one end of the piece against the stop block, you ensure that every subsequent cut is exactly the same length as the first.

Another tip is to guard against the stock shifting slightly as it's being cut. Some folks will adhere a strip of sandpaper along the fence to help grip the stock and prevent it from shifting even the tiniest bit during the cut.

As you are finding out, getting a consistent and accurate fit when building picture frames is a challenge. You are learning a lot that will serve you well as you progress in this hobby. Good luck and have fun making sawdust!

[cpowell]

Yes, Bill; that was part of the problem, cutting them all the same length. I noticed that when I started the saw up it caused a large vibration which in turn moved my stock. I began to re-eyeball the cut for accuracy. I'm going to have to build a fence to attach to my guide so that I can make stops for the cut. I've seen them on youtube and I think I can figure a way to do it for myself. Accurate measurements are an absolute as is making sure the blade hits the line in the same place every time. I found out that you can't cut one side of the line on one piece, then the other side on the next and somewhere in the middle the next time. Every time the same place or it won't work out.
I've got a new blade, an accurate guide now and when I get the stops built I think I may have something. It's been an adventure, I'll tell you!