scrollsaw blade not square to table { Help }

[Rick-H]

I guess I don't agree with some of the theories being used.
First one is using a level to level the table. To me that would only work if I know for sure the rest of the saw is level with the level. If the saw is sitting on a floor that tilts the saw 2 degrees to the left then using the level to make the table be level would have the table 2 degrees off from being square to the blade. Just because the table is level does not mean the blade is plum straight up and down.
Second thing is that the first thing I check on the saw is that the blade is running true with the up and down stroke of the arms.

If the blade is not running true then squaring the table to the blade is still not going to make the blade cut square.

[JimSawyer]

I was just about to mention that using a level isn't going to give you square, for the reasons stated by Rick. That assumes that everything is level from the floor up, and isn't going to give reliable results.

If the blade isn't running true, the best way to determine this is with the old, 'make a cut into a piece of scrap, the thicker the better, just enough to make a visible mark. Then turn the scrap around and put it behind the blade to see if it lines up evenly.

I've been doing this, (scrolling) for a long time, and often have to re-sqaure my table, as I do a LOT of inlay which requires that I tilt my table off 2 1/2 to 3 degrees. I find that a good, small machinist's square is the most reliable. I enjoy making free standing puzzles, and I've never had a problem with this method of squareing.

As for resetting the angle guage indicator, It's just that, an indicator and has nothing to do with the actual function of the saw. I had to reset mine some years back, and I haven't had a problem.
To re-iterate, square the table. Then reset the guage indicator to zero.
If you're having the problem of the blade not running true, I think a repair shop is next, short of checking that all of your screws in the link arm assembly are tight. I surely hope it's not that.

[marshall]

Thanks so much Jim , I went to Rick Hutcheson's web site and downloaded several Pages and printed them on the Tune-up & Repair to the Dewalt saw and I'm going to start the study on it this week . Never can tell I may holler later , you have no idea how much you have helped > thanks a bunch...........Marshall

[SkipTooth]

I use an Incra guaranteed square because I have it already and it has wide base so it stands by itself. I bought it for another reason, I was always irritated at the difference between my bigger squares I use for general use. So I was bitten by the impulse purchase bug while shoping for something else. I did find it was my 12" Stanley steel square that was indeed not square. I say all this to let you know that it never hurts to check square on a square.
You can do this by marking on wood then flip the square over to see if it is the same both ways. But not me, I payed too much money for a very quality cool and neat two tone square! (you know i like it!)
My dad always said I was half a bubble off!
no more rambling, I have to finish putting ball joints in my car, which is why I took off work in the first place!

[JimSawyer]

INCRA square..... Well excuuuuse me mister high and mighty, lol.
I love making those impulse buys... Somewhere down the road I turn to myself and smile.

[lucky788scroller]

Marshall, you can adjust the blade in the bottom holder the same way as you can adjust the blade in the top holder, by turning in, or backing out the screw opposite the thumbscrew in the holders. I hope that was what you were asking.I have one of my yella saws dialed in so close I can cut 3/4th inch thick maple puzzles out using a #1 blade and the pieces fit in and out perfectly, so I always keep that saw set that way. I have a second yella saw that I use for bevel cuts and other things where squareness isnt as critical. There...now youve got an excuse to buy another saw! As for squaring the table with the blade, I use the simple block of wood method as well.

[Janette]

Great info here! So how does one adjust the arms holding the blades when they have become loose? Or are they supposed to be loose? (Arms probably isn't the proper terminology - the part that goes up and down that is attached to the machine and the clamps that hold the blade). My DeWalt is older and I've gone through tightening and leveling. I still have the problem illustrated in Rick's diagrams. The top will fit tight, but there's a gap in the bottom of 3/4" thick woods. Blade is square on right and left. NOt front to back tho, and as I said, the "arms" are looser which makes me think that the vibration is causing the blade to move more than it should. This is consistent with both soft and hard woods.

[Rolf]

Janette,
Buy a good saw
Just kidding!!

[lucky788scroller]

Sorry Janette, I cant offer any help on that. There shouldnt be any free play on the arms for side to side movement, but its ok for the blade holders to have a little bit (less than 1/16th inch).