Hawk G426 Fusion? - Page 2 - Scroll Saw Woodworking & Crafts Message Board

proudrex · 07-24-2009, 05:04 PM

Rolf,
I tried the black magic marker to stop the glare but it kept rubbing off during blade change. The little bit of black electricians tape works fine. LOL...I'm happy I have the light in front of me to protect my face from the flying upper arm...better to replace the light bulb than eyes or teeth

I a little surprised others haven't had troubles with the tensioning device. RBI even sent me an old style lever to replace the pretty blue one. They said they knew people were having problems.

All said, I still want all to know that the G4 is a great saw. I had a Craftsman for several years and never got into scrolling because it was such a pain. I used my Band saw with a 1/8" blade for "scrolling".

Rex Proud

jnye@hawkwoodworkingtools · 07-24-2009, 11:00 PM

Hello all. Seems the owners here would like me to post a statement. Hope I'm not breaking Forum rules!! And I Quote 'Bushton Mfg. has been reviewing the G4 saw.We are aware of some issues with this Model.As of this date,we have no Fusion manual and limited technical drawings.!The plan is to supply the scroll saw community with a 26"saw using the improved feature's and minimal vibration that you all have expected from the Hawk Product Line.'
Hope this helps uall....Jim

lucky788scroller · 07-25-2009, 01:58 AM

Jim, I commend you on jumping in with both feet, and trying to learn a hell of a lot in a short time. To me, just reading your posts, its very evident your determination to once again be marketing a top of the line machine.that says a lot about you folks as a company.It is to bad other saw makers neglect to make their ears readily available to their customers, whether its past, present, or potential customers.Keep up what you are doing, I see Hawk heading in the right direction. A while back there was a guy that used to post in here under the name of Ronco something. I remember him researching saws and saving up his money until he could finally afford an RBI. And I remember how excited he was when he finally was able to order his dream saw. I remember him waiting and waiting for his saw. The check cleared, and soon after he posted that he couldnt find anything out about his backordered saw (which he was actually informed the saw was on backorder at the time he ordered it, however, he was certain this was his dream machine, worth the wait).Months passed before he found out that his dream shattered before his eyes.I think he did finally get somewhere with talking to somebody, but I dont know if he ever got his dream saw. I do hope the potential customers like Ronco were, or are going to be taken care of, even though that was totally out of your control.
Like I said, hang in there, and keep doing what you are doing, you are heading in the right direction!

STEVESSAWSHOP · 07-25-2009, 02:06 AM

Proudrex
The reason your tension rod is bending most likely in the middle, is when the blade brakes or slips out of holder. The safety spring in the back of the saw pulls down with great force. The back of the upper arm will drive down and bend rod. You can test this if you take blade out of saw and look at the back of the arm, you will see it hits the rod. You can put a small piece of rubber tubing on tension rod under upper arm and adjust to height you need the arm to raise. rubber tubbing about 2" long and must fit tight to tension rod. It will also help with your mag light bulb breaking.
Hope this helps!!
Steve

Mike Crosa · 07-25-2009, 03:18 AM

Jeff,

I went to Franks site but could not figure out which one is for the G4. I sent him a message but figure he will be out for the weekend so I thought I'd ask you. Thanks

workin for wood · 07-25-2009, 09:45 AM

I don't know which is which either Mike, but Frank will hook you up. I recommend buying the upper and the lower set. It works so much better than the Hawk original parts...faster and no cranking on that tiny knob.

Hey Jim, thanks for tuning in. Quick fix #1. The most baffling of the few G4 problems is that they put a fancy chrome plate on the back side of the saw. There is a hole in the cast metal behind the plate that is used to change out the spring..but you can't access the hole becuase of the metal plate. You remove the metal plate and you damage it. I'm no engineer..and I like the metal plate, but how about drilling a hole in it! That's what I ended up doing.

STEVESSAWSHOP · 07-25-2009, 12:53 PM

Jeff,
If you are breaking the safety spring in the back of the saw you might want to check the springs screws, odds are they are to tight. The spring needs to rotate around the screws when arm is lifted. Take spring screw and apply a Very Very small amount of BLUE loc-tite. Tighten screw to spring and back off a 1/4 turn, this will solve your problem with spring breakage. When spring is to tight it's like taking wire and bending it back and forth till it breaks.

Also is there any way you could post some pic's of your saw with Frank's holders. I would really like to see your set up and Frank's upgrade.

Steve

Mike Crosa · 07-25-2009, 03:11 PM

Received an E-mail from Frank. For the G4 lower arm it is the #2. Already have the #1 as a gift from the daughter. Ordered it today and should arrive in 2 to 3 business days. Can't wait. I like to feed from the top as my neck is a bit stiff and although my fingers developed eyes it still was not easy to do.

proudrex · 07-25-2009, 04:22 PM

Stevesawshop,
Guess I'm a little slow and don't quite understand how to attach the rubber tube. I'll investigate it further though, I understand what you are trying to accomplish and I didn't think of that before. Thanks!
Also, I checked with Frank and his new blade holders will fit the G4.

Rex P.

STEVESSAWSHOP · 07-25-2009, 08:36 PM

Rex,
Your not slow, it's hard to explain. Basically you need to make a stop for the upper arm just before it hits the tension rod. I am sure you will come up with a better idea. I looked at Frank's parts and they look great! The only thing is in his descriptions about the parts from what I can see line item #1 will only fit Ultra model saws 220,226. The Pro model saws built before 1994 have a different cam and cam handle design and will not work as well. Pro owners must change out to a (new cam round) and cam handle. When Rbi rebuilt old Pro arms they upgraded to a Ultra cam, cam handle, blade holder bracket and blade holder. As for the G4 I would like to know how Frank made the blade retainer clip for the lower blade holder.

Steve

07-25-2009, 01:58 AM	#13
lucky788scroller Senior Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: wisconsin Posts: 6,354	Jim, I commend you on jumping in with both feet, and trying to learn a hell of a lot in a short time. To me, just reading your posts, its very evident your determination to once again be marketing a top of the line machine.that says a lot about you folks as a company.It is to bad other saw makers neglect to make their ears readily available to their customers, whether its past, present, or potential customers.Keep up what you are doing, I see Hawk heading in the right direction. A while back there was a guy that used to post in here under the name of Ronco something. I remember him researching saws and saving up his money until he could finally afford an RBI. And I remember how excited he was when he finally was able to order his dream saw. I remember him waiting and waiting for his saw. The check cleared, and soon after he posted that he couldnt find anything out about his backordered saw (which he was actually informed the saw was on backorder at the time he ordered it, however, he was certain this was his dream machine, worth the wait).Months passed before he found out that his dream shattered before his eyes.I think he did finally get somewhere with talking to somebody, but I dont know if he ever got his dream saw. I do hope the potential customers like Ronco were, or are going to be taken care of, even though that was totally out of your control. Like I said, hang in there, and keep doing what you are doing, you are heading in the right direction! __________________ Dale w/ yella saws

07-25-2009, 03:18 AM	#15
Mike Crosa Land Locked Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 1,717	Jeff, I went to Franks site but could not figure out which one is for the G4. I sent him a message but figure he will be out for the weekend so I thought I'd ask you. Thanks __________________ Mike C. Hawk G4

07-25-2009, 09:45 AM	#16
workin for wood Master Scroller Join Date: Aug 2006 Location: Eaton Rapids Michigan Posts: 2,447	I don't know which is which either Mike, but Frank will hook you up. I recommend buying the upper and the lower set. It works so much better than the Hawk original parts...faster and no cranking on that tiny knob. Hey Jim, thanks for tuning in. Quick fix #1. The most baffling of the few G4 problems is that they put a fancy chrome plate on the back side of the saw. There is a hole in the cast metal behind the plate that is used to change out the spring..but you can't access the hole becuase of the metal plate. You remove the metal plate and you damage it. I'm no engineer..and I like the metal plate, but how about drilling a hole in it! That's what I ended up doing. __________________ Jeff Powell

07-25-2009, 03:11 PM	#18
Mike Crosa Land Locked Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: Ocala, FL Posts: 1,717	Received an E-mail from Frank. For the G4 lower arm it is the #2. Already have the #1 as a gift from the daughter. Ordered it today and should arrive in 2 to 3 business days. Can't wait. I like to feed from the top as my neck is a bit stiff and although my fingers developed eyes it still was not easy to do. __________________ Mike C. Hawk G4

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Email this Page
Display Modes
Linear Mode Switch to Hybrid Mode Switch to Threaded Mode

07-24-2009, 05:04 PM	#11
proudrex Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Taylorsville, Utah, USA Posts: 130 Blog Entries: 7	Rolf, I tried the black magic marker to stop the glare but it kept rubbing off during blade change. The little bit of black electricians tape works fine. LOL...I'm happy I have the light in front of me to protect my face from the flying upper arm...better to replace the light bulb than eyes or teeth I a little surprised others haven't had troubles with the tensioning device. RBI even sent me an old style lever to replace the pretty blue one. They said they knew people were having problems. All said, I still want all to know that the G4 is a great saw. I had a Craftsman for several years and never got into scrolling because it was such a pain. I used my Band saw with a 1/8" blade for "scrolling". Rex Proud

07-24-2009, 11:00 PM	#12
jnye@hawkwoodworkingtools Junior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Posts: 15	Hello all. Seems the owners here would like me to post a statement. Hope I'm not breaking Forum rules!! And I Quote 'Bushton Mfg. has been reviewing the G4 saw.We are aware of some issues with this Model.As of this date,we have no Fusion manual and limited technical drawings.!The plan is to supply the scroll saw community with a 26"saw using the improved feature's and minimal vibration that you all have expected from the Hawk Product Line.' Hope this helps uall....Jim

07-25-2009, 02:06 AM	#14
STEVESSAWSHOP Banned Join Date: May 2009 Location: Missouri Posts: 151	Proudrex The reason your tension rod is bending most likely in the middle, is when the blade brakes or slips out of holder. The safety spring in the back of the saw pulls down with great force. The back of the upper arm will drive down and bend rod. You can test this if you take blade out of saw and look at the back of the arm, you will see it hits the rod. You can put a small piece of rubber tubing on tension rod under upper arm and adjust to height you need the arm to raise. rubber tubbing about 2" long and must fit tight to tension rod. It will also help with your mag light bulb breaking. Hope this helps!! Steve

07-25-2009, 12:53 PM	#17
STEVESSAWSHOP Banned Join Date: May 2009 Location: Missouri Posts: 151	Jeff, If you are breaking the safety spring in the back of the saw you might want to check the springs screws, odds are they are to tight. The spring needs to rotate around the screws when arm is lifted. Take spring screw and apply a Very Very small amount of BLUE loc-tite. Tighten screw to spring and back off a 1/4 turn, this will solve your problem with spring breakage. When spring is to tight it's like taking wire and bending it back and forth till it breaks. Also is there any way you could post some pic's of your saw with Frank's holders. I would really like to see your set up and Frank's upgrade. Steve

07-25-2009, 04:22 PM	#19
proudrex Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Taylorsville, Utah, USA Posts: 130 Blog Entries: 7	Stevesawshop, Guess I'm a little slow and don't quite understand how to attach the rubber tube. I'll investigate it further though, I understand what you are trying to accomplish and I didn't think of that before. Thanks! Also, I checked with Frank and his new blade holders will fit the G4. Rex P.

07-25-2009, 08:36 PM	#20
STEVESSAWSHOP Banned Join Date: May 2009 Location: Missouri Posts: 151	Rex, Your not slow, it's hard to explain. Basically you need to make a stop for the upper arm just before it hits the tension rod. I am sure you will come up with a better idea. I looked at Frank's parts and they look great! The only thing is in his descriptions about the parts from what I can see line item #1 will only fit Ultra model saws 220,226. The Pro model saws built before 1994 have a different cam and cam handle design and will not work as well. Pro owners must change out to a (new cam round) and cam handle. When Rbi rebuilt old Pro arms they upgraded to a Ultra cam, cam handle, blade holder bracket and blade holder. As for the G4 I would like to know how Frank made the blade retainer clip for the lower blade holder. Steve