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Old 06-10-2009, 03:00 PM   #1
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Default Sharpening Chisels

Is there any such thing as a chisel doctor? I know "stupid question" but I have about 20 wood chisels that won't cut warm butter. I can not sharpen a chisel to save my life. I just buy a new one, most of them are not sharp.
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Old 06-11-2009, 07:29 AM   #2
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Yes there is Pete, it is called the "Work Sharp" wood tool sharpener.
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Old 06-11-2009, 10:50 AM   #3
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Pete, google the term -- Scary Sharp

This isn't a good link for instructions, but it does have a good pix of jigs that can be used with Scary Sharp. Scary sharp - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Do spend some time reading the info in the links that'll turn up when you search.

Hope this helps.
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Old 06-11-2009, 12:38 PM   #4
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G'day Pete,
There are two angles that are needed when sharpening a chisel or plane blade.
The first is the grinding angle, for a chisel this is 30o, then there is the sharpening angle and this is 25o.
The grinding angle shouldn't be a problem as the chisel should come ground to this angle.
The sharpening bevel can cause grief if you are not used to sharpening hand tools.

1st criteria is to get a good, flat oil stone. I use a 50/50 mixture of turps and engine oil on mine. If the stone is new it will need feeding, so mix up a batch of the good stuff and dump the stone in it until bubbles stop appearing. Take the stone out and pour the oil into an oil can and you're fit to go. Squirt a bit of the thinned oil onto the surface of the stone, place the grinding bevel flat on the stones surface and lift the handle slightly this will give you the sharpening angle. Assuming you are right handed, you should have a good grip on the handle with your right hand and a couple of fingers of the left hand on the blade down near the cutting edge. Don't bend your elbow or wrist, use your shoulder, and gently rub the chisel back and forth using the whole length of the stone. After about a dozen or so strokes, lift the chisel and wipe the edge with a rag. You should see a nice shiny bevel appearing. Run a finger down the back of the blade, over the sharpened edge and if there is a slight hook you have it. Now lay the back of the chisel flat on the stone and give a push away from you, this will remove the burr and all things being equal you'll have a nice sharp tool. When it begins to dull, just repeat the process.

After a few sharpenings you will notice that the sharpening bevel is growing and it takes longer to get an edge. You will then have to regrind the grinding bevel.

If all else fails try one of these.

Rockler has them in your part of the world Honing Guide - Rockler Woodworking Tools

BTW, make a nice tight fitting box for your stone, the sides should come up about 1/2 way. The box will protect the stone, and absorb extra oil, thus keeping it "fed".
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Last edited by JohnB; 06-12-2009 at 01:41 AM.
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Old 06-11-2009, 08:39 PM   #5
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John, shouldn't he make sure the back is flat first?
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Old 06-12-2009, 01:35 AM   #6
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G'day Lee,
You are absolutely correct mate.
The last chisels I bought where the first chisels I bought about 38 years ago.
They are "Marples" sp.
I completely forgot about dressing the back flat first. Thanks for the reminder.
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Old 06-12-2009, 01:38 AM   #7
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I put this in a thread of it's own, just so more people may be able to contribute and or learn
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Old 06-12-2009, 02:58 PM   #8
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Snapper mentioned the Worksharp. This thing is on my wish list. Like you I'm helpless when it comes to sharpening. I've read dozen's of reviews for the Worksharp and all are positive. It appears to be practically idiot proof (which is necessary in my case).

There are 2 versions. The "deluxe" version retails for around $200.
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Old 06-12-2009, 04:37 PM   #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bill Wilson View Post
. This thing is on my wish list. Like you I'm helpless when it comes to sharpening. .

Thank you I thought I was the only wood worker in the world that couldn't sharpen a chisel. I feel better now.
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