Question for you DeWalt people

[lucky788scroller]

Janette, When you are checking that with your square, do you notice that the amount differs when its at the top of the stroke,compared to the bottom of the stroke? On the two of my Dewalts I checked, when its on the very bottom of its stroke, the blade is square to the table (checking against the backside of the blade, and also against the teeth themselves). At the top of the stroke, the top of the blade is noticably farther forward than it is at table height. Guessing, I'd say slightly over 1/16th inch. This really isnt a flaw, its the way the action of the saw operates, even on a brand new one you would see this same thing.This hasnt caused me any grief, so I havent really studied it to see if its gotten much different than when the saws were new. I do quite a bit of intricate fretwork things, and always stack cut when I can, and I dont notice a difference in the cuts from the top of the stack compared to the bottom ones in the stack unless its something like 1/8th inch thick layers, and stacked 5 or 8 layers high, and then the variance is very minute, nothing to concern me.
If you wish to raise the rear of the table, I am not sure how you would go about that. The front (by front, I mean the part of the table closest to the operatior)can be adjusted up or down a littl bit. Raising the front is simple, just unbolt it from the piece part #4 on that diagram, and use a washer or some shimming material between the table and that part. That would raise the front of the table.If you want to lower the front, you can,although I dont recommend this..... Unbolt the table from part#4 and remove it from the saw.CAREFULLY somehow mill off a bit of material from where the table bolts to that piece, either by filing, sanding,grinding, or milling. Remember, once its removed, it can not be replaces, so if you do this , do a wee bit at a time.Again, I wouldnt recommend doing that, but it can be done. That would lower the front of the table.
Just for kicks, lay a straightedge across your table from front to back, and check how flat your table is. One of mine has a very slight crown to it, with the high point being the blade hole, and the other one is dead on flat to the naked eye.
Hopefully I helped some.Keep us posted.

[steveh]

The last post by lucky788scroller hits it right on the head. I have been using my DeWalt for about 8 years. Mine is also different at top and bottom of the stroke. Because of the short arms that pivot, the blade moves forth and back approx 0.025" as it travels from top to bottom. If the bottom and top arms are not perfectly parallel, they do not follow the same arc and the result is the blade tilts forward or backward as it travels up and down. Some adjustment can be made, by lengthening or shortening the tensoning rod, to get the arms parallel. That, however, may result is nosier operation or improper operation of the tensioning system. I spent a lot of time analyzing why this was happening and I, like lucky788scroller, came to the conclusion that it does not affect the results of cutting, so I ignore it.
I certainly would not mess with lifting the pivot point of the table becuse it would affect the operation of the tilting mechanism, without correcting the problem.

Hope this helps.
Steve

[ubgoofy2003]

Janette, as Marsha's pictures show, there is only two points that fasten the table to the saw. The pin on the back of the table, & the tightening knob on the front. The knob on the front is for adjusting the table from right to left or left to right. That is the only adjustment for leveling the table to the blade. If the collar is missing on the front knob, you would not be able to adjust the table. It just wouldn't aline with the saw. Don't know what else you can do. Sorry if we haven't been of any help. Hope you can get your problem solved. Perk

[treslakter]

Janette, as Dale says: 'its the way the action of the saw operates'.

Unfortunately I'm not even in the neighbourhood of my bookshelves at the time being, but my memory says this is explained in a scroll saw handbook I have. I think the author is Patrick Spielman.

I read alot about these things before I bought my "yellow fellow". There is a saw available that has a real vertical blade movement, but I couldn't find arguments that justified the price of a "blue fellow". The greatest advantage from that construction will probably be in connection with stacksawing pieces that have to be excactly the same size. For instance when making a whole bunch of "shy frogs"?

Someone around with an Eclipse saw, and time to 'enlighten the pagans'?

[Janette]

Guess I won't worry too much about it. Thanks for all the input!

[SNAPPER]

I noticed the same on mine.
Dean