FD Blades

[southpaw]

Hello everyone, I see a lot of comments on the FD blades, can anyone give me some performance info on them, on the 2/0 for example, I'm assuming these small ones are made on a press? so they are more aggresive on one side?. I live in Canada so to order these blades I would have to pay extra for shipping, duty and exchange so are they worth paying the extras, thank you in advance for the inputs. Lloyd

[Rolf]

I don't think that any of the blades are stamped, they are all milled or ground. I am sure that Mike will pipe in here.
In five years of scrolling I have never been able to follow a line with the FD 2/0, (Sorry Mike) I go back to them every now and then to see if I can work with them, they just wont work for me.
In the 2/0 range I stick with the Olson, they cut a little slower but are very easy for ME to control.
This is why I suggest that you try all the brands ( quality brands) and see what YOU end up being most comfortable with.

[groverd]

I use them all the time, the 2/0 skip tooth for me is very hard to control so i use the polar blades and have no problems. for most of my work i use the Ultra Reverse and love them. I agree with Rolf though and you have to try different brands to see what works best for you.

[southpaw]

Mike did email me and I emailed him with a few question before I saw you guy's posts, I am particularly interested in the 2/0 info because I'm in the process of starting to scroll a picture that Guitarman made for me and it will be my first picture that I make so I think the better the blade the better the outcome

[Rolf]

Grover I didn't think the ultra reverse comes in 2/0?
I don't like the UR's for very fine work at 15TPI they are a bit too agressive for me. (Olson 2/0 is 28TPI)
The UR blades are excellent for other thicker wood projects. And I love the way the top of the blade is marked.

[Carter-Johnson]

I use Mike's FD Superior Puzzle for all my puzzles except the tiny stamps. I used to use Olsens but the puzzles I produced were way too loose compared with the FD. Sure, they take a little getting used to because they are so sharp and fine, but if you work with them they are very controllable and can get into many places others blades just can't.

Try 'em.......and be patient..... Carter

[minowevie]

Originally Posted by Rolf

I don't think that any of the blades are stamped, they are all milled or ground. I am sure that Mike will pipe in here.
In five years of scrolling I have never been able to follow a line with the FD 2/0, (Sorry Mike) I go back to them every now and then to see if I can work with them, they just wont work for me.
In the 2/0 range I stick with the Olson, they cut a little slower but are very easy for ME to control.
This is why I suggest that you try all the brands ( quality brands) and see what YOU end up being most comfortable with.

I just have to agree with Rolf. I just don't have any luck with the small blades from FD. not to say you would. but I also use the Olson #0/2 and #2 mostly.
I find that they just track better, they still have the burr on the right side, but for me. I like that. a lot of folks cut counter clock wise. but I like to keep the burr against the line. when I go into a corner or v shape. it really helps me get back into the wood with out wandering around. you can also use the burr to shave a little piece off if need be. I wish I could handle Mikes small blades , for they are supper sharp, and last along time. and he is a great guy to deal with. He used to send samples out to most of us but I am not sure about out of the US. maybe if you was willing to pay the shipping, you could just try a coupe #s. to see if you like them. you can also get some good smaller blades out of the free catalog buy windfield. I also use those alot. not sure who makes them. maybe Olson don't know, they look different to me. good luck. your friend Evie

[minowevie]

Originally Posted by Carter Johnson

I use Mike's FD Superior Puzzle for all my puzzles except the tiny stamps. I used to use Olsens but the puzzles I produced were way too loose compared with the FD. Sure, they take a little getting used to because they are so sharp and fine, but if you work with them they are very controllable and can get into many places others blades just can't.

Try 'em.......and be patient..... Carter

Carter, I love your puzzles. and the one stamp puzzle you sent me was so good. I am curious , what wood did you use. maybe that would make the deferents in my cutting. it looked alot like bass wood. but not sure. I do agree that the FD blades are much thinner. I would love to handle them. but what happends to me is. they want to keep cutting to the right so much, that when I try to turn, they just keep going the way they want. I have even bent a blade trying to turn. in just 1/4 plywood. I have even turned the piece 180 and the blade just bent all the way around and bent so much it became unusable. sooooo. I could use some help with that. I Have many small FD blades. have not tryed them on bass wood. thanks your friend Evie

[jim_mex]

I second Grover's comments.

I love the UR blades and although I usually cut thicker stock with the larger blades up to #7 I just cut the frog parts of Janettes Intarsia Challenge using the #1 UR and they worked very well considering I was cutting really hard wood at between 3/8" - 3/4" thick. I find these blades also work well for freehand jigsaw cutting of thinner stock. For any finer needs I have also used fine Polar blades with success.

Cheers!

[Bob in Whitby]

Southpaw:
I too live in Canada (Ontario - but native Maritimer). I order all of my blades from Mike's Workshop. I just want to point out that yes we pay the currency exchange and a small shipping fee that Mike charges, but duty is NOT charged. I just give Mike a credit card number. They come via standard mail right to your mail box - in 7 to 10 days. The quality of the FD product has been noted above by others. I for one love them for what I do - mainly intarsia, some portraits, some fret work and puzzles. Enjoy the hobby.
Cheers
Bob