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Old 03-22-2009, 03:26 PM   #1
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Default Band Saw Help

I have changed my band saw blade from a 1/4 inch blade to a 1/8 inch blade because I needed to cut tighter radaii. The problem is I can't get the saw to track correctly. No matter how I try to make the adjustment the blade eventually comes off on one side or the other. I have followed the instructions in the book but cannot make it work. Is there a "trick of the trade" that I don't know about or am I missing something. I have made the attempt several times but haven't got it yet. Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks
Don
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Old 03-22-2009, 03:56 PM   #2
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Check the Suffolk Machine website,they have a setup test called the flutter test for setting tension.My bandsaw would cut alot different from blade to blade but do a google search for bandsaw setup Correcting Band Saw Drift - NewWoodworker.com LLC. .I have some better sites somewhere but I can't find them.
I have a Craftsman 10" saw with an odd length blade and could only order Craftsman blades and they cut like you are talking about.I ordered some Timber Wolf blades from Suffolk Machinery and have only used 1 sofar and it cuts like a dream.I have never had a saw change so much by just changing the blade brand.Tony

Last edited by ncsealeveler; 03-22-2009 at 03:57 PM. Reason: 1st time inserting a web link and it works
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Old 03-29-2009, 06:35 AM   #3
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Default BS blade adjustment

Hi Don,
Just wanted to say that you are not alone. I have a new Sears 10" and changed my blade from a 1/4" to an 1/8". The only way I could get it to stay on the wheels is to have the blade sitting toward the back on the upper wheel and toward the front on the lower wheel. The lower guides don't even come close to the blade, I can get the top guides adjusted. It is incorrect, but after an hour of agony, I "settled". Also, I had to leave the tension a bit loose. When I take up the slack the blade runs right off the wheels. I bought the Timberwolf blade as recommended by some. I had a ww friend tell me too that 1/8" blades are hard to get adjusted. I'll try again when I recover from the last attempt.
Vic
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Old 03-29-2009, 03:47 PM   #4
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Default I also have the 10 inch Craftsman saw

last weekend I put on a new Vermont 1/4 inch blade and couldn't get it to cut straight eather no matter what I did so I had to put back on the old 3/8 inch blade which cut straight as an arrow...

I did notice that the Vermont blade was a lot thinner than the old craftsman blade so I'm guessing that's why I was getting all that drift out of it?

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Old 03-29-2009, 03:56 PM   #5
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After reading the treads I wonder if the tracking has anything to do with the rubber on the wheel . It may have become hard over time . Just a thought .
Roger
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Old 03-29-2009, 06:38 PM   #6
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I guess I am not the only lucky one. I keep going back to it and try again but so far no luck. Maybe I will try the 1.4 inch blade again and see what happens.
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Old 03-29-2009, 08:27 PM   #7
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Don:

Quick question--- Does the blade track OK with just the saw running? In other words, is the blade wandering off only when (while) you are cutting?

On my old Delta 14" bandsaw, the tracking problem I have is due to the small amount of metal behind the teeth and the limited contact with the guide blocks. When I first load my 1/8" blade, and have the guide blocks well away from the blade, my 1/8" blade will track OK (but of course I am just letting the blade run, nothing else.)

Phil
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Old 03-29-2009, 11:19 PM   #8
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Hi Don - First of all you need to let us know what kind of band saw you have. Members with that type of saw can offer the best help.

Generally speaking: The rubber on the two wheels, called the tire, might be worn out. The rubber needs to be in good shape. If it's hard, the blade will tend to slide off, especially when you take a cut. My craftsman band saw adjusts by pitching the upper wheel. Before you adjust the wheel make sure the upper and lower guide blocks are not in the way. If you adjust the wheel and the guide blocks are hitting the blade in the back or pinching on the sides, you will not be able to make a proper adjustment. The guide blocks could be keeping the blade from sitting properly on the wheels. Also make sure the tension is set properly. If the blade is slipping off the tension might need to be a little tighter (more). Spin the wheels by hand to seat the blade. Don't make an adjustment and then turn the saw on to check it. If you get the blade to seat properly after several revolutions then put the guard on and test jog the blade. If all seems well you should be in good shape.

The biggest problem is pitching the wheel too much at once. Make small adjustments and test by hand. Sometimes the problem is going too far and then adjusting and going too far the other way.

Of course you could have a problem like the wheel is coming loose. Check to make sure both wheels are tight.

Finally, don't forget to set the guides, before you start working.

Good luck and let us know how you make out.
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Old 03-30-2009, 05:26 AM   #9
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Hi,
I'm Vicki, the one with the problem similar to Don. My saw is a new Craftsman 10 inch. My 1/8" blade is a Timberwolf. I was told to check that the wheels were aligned. I will do that Tues. when I'm off work. You said check that the wheels are tight. Sorry to be the dumb blonde, but how do I check that? I am going to make sure and try your suggestion of 'small adjustments'. Maybe mine were too big and I need to turn the wheel more by hand to see the effect. I did notice that the blade wandered off the wheels more once running on electric as opposed to hand turning. Thank you

Thank you to Tony also for the links. I'll be checking them out.
Vicki
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Old 03-30-2009, 01:03 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by blondewood View Post
You said check that the wheels are tight. Sorry to be the dumb blonde, but how do I check that?
Just grab the wheel and see if you can move it back and forth. You are checking for play in the bearing. The bearings don't usually fail. This is a just, while your there, might as well check it kind of thing.

Quote:
Originally Posted by blondewood View Post
I am going to make sure and try your suggestion of 'small adjustments'. Maybe mine were too big and I need to turn the wheel more by hand to see the effect. I did notice that the blade wandered off the wheels more once running on electric as opposed to hand turning. Thank you
Your welcome! Only turn the screw 1/8 of a turn at a time and make sure the upper and lower guides are not touching the blade. They can be adjusted after you get the blade centered. Good luck!
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