Table Saw Blades

[Wizard]

Ok, I know this isnt for scroll saws but I use my table saw allot with my scroll saw.

My blade is worn out so its time for a new one. What I was wanting to know is what would be a good blade.

I have a Delta 10" table saw. I went to get a blade last night but found so many different blades that I really didnt know what to get.

I am looking for a blade that will cut 1/4" ply wood without to much chip out.

I am also looking for a blade to rip and cross cut oak and pine boards for my picture frames.

Does anybody have any info or opinions on table saw bades?

Thank,

~Wizard

[Jediscroller]

For a general purpose blade, without question, a Forest WWII blade. For ply, I would get the Forrest plywood blade though the general purpose blade works very well as well with a zero-clearance insert.

[Barefoot1]

I will second that. If the Forest blade seems a bit pricey I would consider the Freud but in the end I think you will see that the Forest is actually a better deal as it will last longer and I believe they sharpen it for you as well for shipping cost.

[tomsteve]

in my opinion, cutting 1/4" ply will require a 60 or 80 tooth blade, which is a good choice for cross-cutting also. i use the freud blades and have for quite a few years. i use them and take care of them as i am supposed to and they take care of me.

[greatdane2]

With the cost of good blades I would sugest you by the cheaper priced carbide blades that will do what you want. You will find the all purpose blades don't really do a good job on any 1 thing. So buy several blades and use the one recomended for the wood you are cutting. Once a blade needs replacing and you know it will get used a lot then buy a good quality blade. And once you have a good blade do not get lazy and use it for the wrong purpose.
With my expencive blades, I remove them from the saw as soon as I finish with them. that stops me being lazy and cutting crap and destroying the blade.
I also made a rack to hold the blades so they can not touch each other.
A good blade will last decades if used and stored right. And when you pay $100-200 for a good blade it better last that long.
Another option is to buy a blade you can trade in when dull. You buy the first blade and then when you take it back you pay a bit for the new one. You are basicaly paying a resharpening fee.This works well if you do not live where anyone sharpens blades. These carbide blades are not the best but it might be a good way to go.

[lucky788scroller]

In a contractors style TS, I would say a thin kerf Forrest WW2 blade, I love mine.

[Jediscroller]

Hey Dale,
Did you find you needed to add a stabilizer for the thin kerf blade? I use a regular kerf blade but I keep debating about buying one of the thin kerf versions (the regular kerf comes in really handy for 1/8" grooves).

[marshall]

Wizard : I live right down the street from a sharping shop , they informed me not to go out and spend the real big bucks on those name brand blades for their no better than the mid range one's .This has been their findings in sharping all different blade brands . A good sharping shop can put on and replace carbite teeth when you need them . They said just to buy a couple of good blades and when dull have them sharpened , like the dewalt and freud blades . P.S. One of those zero clearance in the saw table will also help you also .I've been doing this and it's working out good for me . Now I have a 80 tooth blade for those fine cutting jobs and a 40 and 60 also . Buying those twin packs of blades you can get a deal on once in a while, if you just look around and shop . Hope this helps !!! Marshall

[Wizard]

Thanks all,

I really cant afford one or 2 of them Forrest blades. I was out blade shopping yesterday, I hit Grizzly Tools down in Muncy, PA. They are about an hour away from me. Spend about 3 hours looking at all the toys, then finally looked at the blades. They have the Forrest blades, but like you all said, they are expensive. I looked at the Dewalt and another blade they have there. Got the prices and decided to go to Sears to see what there prices where, Sears is in the same shopping center. They have there brand of carbide blades, I settled on them. I got a 24 tooth blade for ripping and a 60 tooth blade for cross cuts and plywood. Im also going to make a few 0 clearance inserts for my saw. I know I made this out to be more of a chore then it should have been, but I didnt know there where so many different blades out there.

Once my little hobby gets to pay for itself I will spend the money on some higher quality tools and equipment.

Thanks for all the info.

[workin for wood]

I generally prefer a freud blade and I don't usually buy a table saw version either. You can buy a heck of a good quality freud blade at the big box or ace hardware stores in the $20 range..these are circular saw blades. They fit the table saw arbor perfectly. The thinner the kerf the better. They just don't raise up as high, so you can't cut anything over 1 3/4 or maybe 2" thick or so, but a 1" board or any plywood is no problem. You don't need a stabilizer because the diameter of the blade is smaller which reduces high speed wobble. Because the blades are smaller, they are less expensive and so you can afford a larger variety of blades! Also, you will find a smaller diameter blade with a thinner kerf will make your saw cut like it has twice or more the power! The only normal size table saw blade you really need is a good quality rip blade, everything else can be easily substituted with circular saw blades. If your wood is 3" or more thick,you technically should be using a band saw anyhow. The mini circular saw blades work great too if you require a super thin kerf for very fine inlays, they can be purchased all the way down to around a millimeter in thickness. Awesome for pen inlays.