Table Saw Blades

[lucky788scroller]

Kevin, I do use a stabilizer with the blade.I actually havent tried it without the stabilizer, so Im not sure if I must use it, but when I bought the blade they kept pushing me to buy their stabilizer.I didnt buy their stabilizer, but instead bought a stabilizer from Oldham for a few dollars less.The saw Im using right now doesnt have the power to do any ripping of hardwoods with a regular kerf blade, but with the Forrest thin kerf blade I can rip them with no problem, so I would recommend a thin kerf if your using a contractor style saw , the cabinet saws generally have a lot more hp, and a regular kerf blade would be fine there.
Freud also makes great blades, thats what I put on my scms (sliding compound miter saw), and I love the cut it leaves.

[SNAPPER]

I have used 71/4" circular saw blades on my 10" table saw with no problems.
Dean

[utbva]

Thanks for this thread. I am just trying to decide what blade to get for cutting 1/4" plywood too. I do have one of the expensive Forrest blades but I don't want to use it on the plywood because of the glue in the wood and I want to save that blade just for cross cutting hardwoods. The suggestion for the 7-1/4" blades sounds like a great idea and that is what I will try.

[naveall]

like you we use our table saw as part of our scrolling and have both a delta unisaw and a craftsmen 10 inch saw that i currently run a 80 tpi blade on for ripping down various woods, i would prefer the frued but since that is a bit out of my price range i did get a dewalt 80 tpi and have one on both the table saw and one on my miter saw, the nice thing about the dewalt is you can see the yellow tipped heads as you are ripping down the lumber, this makes it a bit safer since you can actually see that blade, i think this is one of them you need to find what you like and can afford, there are some superior blades out there and there are some that have a superior price with them, the other thing to think of is sharpening them, here where we live the last quote i got for a resharped of a diamond tooth 80 tpi was three dollars per tooth, total to shapern that blade would have been over 240 dollars, for that much i can buy a couple new ones, some one said something about o clearances inserts, these are always a good idea, they work really well. as a foot note, i have a genreal purpose smooth cut 80 tpi blade on all my saws, from the table saws to both miter saws

[jim_mex]

I'm with most of the other guys. I've stopped paying big money for 'brand name' blades mainly because I have problems sharpening them and also I can find oriental made carbide tipped blades at almost 1/4 of the price which work pretty well.

I used an 80 tooth carbide tipped blade for fine work and thinner materials and a 40 tooth general purpose blade for ripping and cutting thicker stock where accuracy is not so critical.

If I have to really smooth cut thick stock I tend to cut it slightly oversize with the rough cut blade and then whizz it through again to size using the finer blade. I don't have a thicknesser or planer hence the reason for this workaround.

[Wood Dog]

As an aside to this blade discussion.......I "saw" a program on TV called Cool Tools, and they had on this blade changing BladeLoc jig. Just in case someone wanted to get one here it is at Amazon. It is made by Bench Dog Tools.
Amazon.com: Bench Dog 10-001 Table Saw Blade-Loc: Home Improvement

Check out the customer reviews.

[tomsteve]

Originally Posted by utbva

Thanks for this thread. I am just trying to decide what blade to get for cutting 1/4" plywood too. I do have one of the expensive Forrest blades but I don't want to use it on the plywood because of the glue in the wood and I want to save that blade just for cross cutting hardwoods. The suggestion for the 7-1/4" blades sounds like a great idea and that is what I will try.

iffen ya want a blade just for 1/4" ply, how 'bout a plywood blade in the 7 1/4" size? not too expensive and along with a 0 clearance insert, you should be able to get pretty good clean cuts.

[utbva]

I didn't get the 7-1/4" blade but I did get a Hitachi 60 tooth 8-1/2" thin kerf blade made for sheet goods and I does cut the 1/4" ply and 1/8" masonite pretty well. I also made a sled for the table saw for cross cutting the plywood so that does give me a zero clearance cut.