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Old 09-20-2008, 03:36 PM   #1
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Default Dewalt 788 Repair

Here is the problem. I have tried all the repairs I have found to solve the knocking on my 788. Have removed the top cover that gives access to adjust the tensioning rod I have even stripped one of the screws. It still knocks and has a slight vibration.

Have went to Rick's site and others. Have removed the cover to the back part of saw. Nothing loose. Have run the tensioning rod to and fro. It still knocks. Have ground off parts of the plate and the bend of the tensioning rod.

Could it be my saw is worn out? Its about 8 or 9 years old and seen alot of use.

Dewalt advertises the GRC.

GUARANTEED REPAIR COST (GRC) PROGRAM: Our DEWALT|Porter-Cable|Delta Factory Service Centers make repair a smart option for you by eliminating the guesswork to save you both time and money! With this program, you instantly know the cost of any tool repair and it is always guaranteed not to exceed this maximum price regardless of the work performed or parts replaced. And better yet, when the cost of a repair is below the GRC price, you are always billed the lesser amount. Plus, each repair is backed with a 90-day warranty.

Do any of you have any experience with this? What did it cost?

Is there another way to recondition my saw?

Since I probably won't be involved in a federal bail-out for 788s, any suggestions, help, money, etc. will really be appreciated.

Chase
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Old 09-20-2008, 05:49 PM   #2
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Sounds like the same thing that happened to my Dewalt. It has several thousand hours on it. I just bought a new one, They are half the price from what I paid for the first one. I am using the old one to cut metal, But the rebuilding sounds like it might be worth looking at.

Alan.
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Old 09-20-2008, 09:05 PM   #3
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Alan, no one believes this but I found this 788 new in the box with a stand at Lowes in High Point for $200. Couldn't believe it and snatched it up. Has been a great saw for these many years.

Hoping to find someone who has done the Dewalt GRC thing. Don't have room for two saws so I really want to repair this one. It would pain me to throw it away.

Chase
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Old 09-21-2008, 12:30 AM   #4
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I remember doing the GRC when I took my Dewalt in - Didn't end up using it because the guy couldn't find anything wrong with it and didn't end up doing anything. (turned out my problem was dust in the switch area and a loose connection - this was before I knew about this site!)
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Old 09-21-2008, 02:56 AM   #5
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Chase, I believe you, except I doubt the price you stated.If i remember right, it was $199.95 ! LOL, I got one when they sold them for that. I didnt get it locally though, I searched until I found one and had to have the store ship it to me,,,from FL to WI.
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Old 09-21-2008, 09:19 PM   #6
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Hi all. I am brand new to this forum and this is my first post. In high school I loved wood shop and I loved to scroll. I am now married with 3 kids and am trying to get back into it. I bought the 788 this weekend from a man. The saw has 0 hours on it. His wife purchased it and then she died a few months later. He used it for 30 mins one day then put it in his garage. It was bought in 2002.

The problem is the knocking noise. It is making me so mad. I have followed all the things it says to do. I took off the switch and sanded down the part it says. I took the entire thing apart and as the old man had said it was brand new inside. I greased the plate on the top where the wedge is and I also greased anywhere that needed it. I assembled it all together and turned it on. It was smooth and silent. I then started to cut. When it is on the tightest position (5) it is normally silent but as I go down the louder it gets. I was on about 3 and the noise started again. I took the switch off and turned the tensioner to the right. Nothing is working. I have now turned it to the right and the left and I still get this stupid noise. Could some one help me here.

Thank you so much. I am just getting frustrated because I have felt and heard what it should sound like but it just won't do it. I asked the man about the noise and he said it has done that since the day he got it so it must be the way it is suppose to be. If I pull up on the arm when it is going it will silence it but as soon as I release tension it starts again. Sorry this was so long I just want to make it all clear.
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Old 09-21-2008, 09:51 PM   #7
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Hi there Billy. I wont to welcome you to the forum. and I don't own a dewalt 788 but there is alot that do. I am sure you will get some help hear. I was thinking that maybe you should make a new post in the tools section. just incase the ones that do have one, will see it . alot of folks already read this thread, and may not get back to you. so just incase ok. maybe Bob will do it for you. ??? welcome to the forum for sure. and so glad you are hear. Evie

Last edited by minowevie : 09-21-2008 at 09:54 PM.
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Old 09-22-2008, 01:00 AM   #8
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BigBellyBuys...... Id suggest you clamp in your blade in the bottom holder. Now, with your tension lever moved all the way to the right as far as it goes, clamp the blade into the holder, and as you do that, slightly push down on the upper arm, making sure its completely down all the way. It doesnt need an elephant sitting on it, just a little downward pressure.Now, with the blade clamped in tight, move your tension lever to the left.gnore the numbers, just go by feel. Make it pretty tight, tight enough the blade doesnt deflect side to side more than an eigth inch maximum when you push against it. Now, start your saw. There should be little to no noise other than a soft purr of its normal operation sound.It may get louder or quieter as you speed up or slow the saw down.If that loud knocking is there now, youve got a problem.With the saw running, and the blade tensioned, it should be relatively quiet, but, with the saw running and as you ease up the tension, it will begin making more noise, more vibrating, possibly what could be considered a knocking, but thats because theres simply not enough tension.
I dont pay any attention to the numbers on the tensioning part.The numbers really are a useless set of numbers as each time the blade is installed and tensioned, its not always in the exact same place, so do get yourself into the habit of going by feel rather than what number its tightened to. Hopefully some of that helped, if not, sorry, i tried.
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Old 09-22-2008, 01:49 AM   #9
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Ok, I will go try this and let you know. Sorry for the wait I went to church to night and I just got back.
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Old 09-22-2008, 02:31 AM   #10
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OK I right now have this thing torn down and I am happy to say I have found the issue. The problem is I have no idea how to fix it.

I took the right side of the machine apart then bolted the stuff back together to hold it so I could turn it on but still watch what is going on. I hope that makes since. Anyway the arm that goes to the bottom blade clamp and connects to the pivot point in the rear is hitting the frame. on the bottom. There has to be something I am missing to adjust this but what. If someone wants to call me on the phone and would let me describe it to them I would be very appreciate. I will stay right by the computer to see if anyone can tell me how to fix this or talk me thru it on the phone. Thanks so much for your help. If you need my number let me know
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