zero blade clearance

[sawdustus]

I am about to start a couple of very large (8 x 10 and bigger) detailed (hundreds of internal cuts) pictures using 2/0 blades and I want to make sure that the very fine pieces to not catch or vibrate when over the blade clearance slot on my Hawk G4. For practice, I have tried taping a piece of paper over the hole but the edges fray quickly, catching small, delicate cuts and breaking them off. Any ideas on how to make and attach a zero clearance insert over the table that will allow easy top feeding of the blade but not fray or catch the delicate pieces will be appreciated.

Thanks.

George

[Jim McDonald]

George,
What about using a piece from a bleach or laundry soap container. Thin enough to handle with a razor, but far tougher than paper. The fronts and backs are plenty flat. Or, if you want something clear, use the plastic from a dishwashing liquid bottle, then you could see the bottom holder--at least till it turned opaque from all the sawdust sliding around on it!

[AKAkopa]

Try cutting out a piece of baltic (or a good quality) plywood in the shape of your table, find the blade position, cut a zero clearence hole there and then attaching that with double sided carpet tape.

[Wood Dog]

I drilled a hole in a piece of window glass and use that when I need Zero clearance.
Tape the glass to the table. Nice and smoooooooth.

[millwab]

George,
Here is a .pdf file I have in my archives. I thought I originally found it here, but I could not find the original thread (if it was). The author is Alain Gilbert, and he takes you through adding a zero-clearance top to your saw. Hope this helps (or at least gives you an idea or two) . . .

[3_M]

Here is a tread you might want to check out:
Absolutely Free Scrollsaw Patterns
Mike

[minowevie]

George, there is so many ways, but just for a fast piece, I have taped a regular playing card over the hole. first making a slit in it to get the blade in. then let the blade make its own hole. I also just put some painters tape over the hole pushing it against the blade to create the slit, then it tapes back to itself. as it also makes its own hole. even a critit card will work. you can also , cut out a piece of plexie glass 1/8" thick , drill a hole and push it into the space where the other plate was. I have heard of the bigger plexie glass table and taped to the old table. haven't tried that but seams to be a great idea. the only thing there is, it will left your work piece up that much. 1/8 or 1/4 depending on the glass. I don't see where that would be a problem except for the revers tooth blades. I would love the try it though. hope this helps some. your friend Evie

[24 hours? NE!]

I've seen a piece of acrylic cut to fit the table (with magnet strips to attach it). It worked great. Wish it was my idea.

[sawdustus]

Thanks for the wonderful suggestions. I knew I could count on you folks for ideas. Millwab, thanks for the link to making the new table top but for better or worse, the Hawk has an aluminum table top so magnets won't work. The Hawk also has the blade clearance slot cut directly into the table so I can't even make a replaceable insert like I did for my Delta miter, band and scroll saws. I like the idea of a playing card but they are still basically paper. WoodDog, the way I drop things, I'd be picking up glass shards for weeks. Soooooooo....
Thin plastic appears to be the best way for me to go. I found some clear, very thin 8 1/2 x 11 sheets of acetate that I used to use to make overhead projections for my classes. I am going to try to attach it with transparent tape around all the edges to hold it to the table and I am going to use some double faced tape (that my wife used when she made layered invitations) to keep the midddle of the sheet tight to the table, especially near the blade hole.
Once again, thanks for the great suggestions. I will keep you posted as to how it all works out.

George

[Mick Walker]

George, everything comes in a bubble package these days. That thin, clear plastic that you mentioned should work fine. The plastic that x-rays are on would be a tougher material, maybe check with your medical clinic or Dr. I don't know what they do with old x-rays. My Delta came with a zero clearance insert.